taking Night pics with a Canon Eos400d

martyn29 · 4th July 2007, 12:02

Whats the best lens, setting to use, obviously I know you cant use the flash.
Many thanks

Martyn

Beaker · 4th July 2007, 15:45

Depends how dark it is.

Richard Armstrong · 4th July 2007, 16:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by martyn29

Whats the best lens, setting to use, obviously I know you cant use the flash.
Many thanks

Martyn

Even if you could use flash, it is usually poor for night photography unless used cleverly.

Bill EWS · 4th July 2007, 17:26

Hi,
The best time for night shots is when there is still a bit of daylight to avoid inky-black skies. However, your digital camera will manage a better job of this than film so you will get away with it.

You could set the ASA to 16000 but I don't recommend it unless absolutely neccessary, so try 800asa. 'Auto white' should take care of the white baance but there are a number of artificial light settings you can try for varying results. If you aren't happy with the grain/noise from 800 asa then lower it to 400. However, the higher asa settings will help you gain a fast enough shutter speed to stop movement. You will require a longer exposure. I often took night exposures of 30-32 seconds with 100 asa film and got very acceptable results.

If you can't get a fast shutter speed then use a tripod.

Here is an example of a 30-32 second exposure with a film camera (on a tripod). I also used an 80B 'blue' filter to convert the daylight film for artificial light use.

The interesting thing with the picture above was how steady the driver stayed throughout the exposure. Likewise, the telling of whether your exposure is quite accuarate for the lighting conditions, is in how much detail you see inside the loco cab (this could be a shop window etc). Too much exposure and the detail would be washed out and, too little it would look too dark.

And here is a couple of handheld shots with my Canon 350D SLR. At 16000 asa.... White light balance was on 'auto'.

Trust that this helps.

Cheers.

BillEWS.

Beaker · 4th July 2007, 17:38

1/1
F3.5
ISO 100

Bill EWS · 4th July 2007, 17:48

Hi Beaker,
That's a very nice example of using a lower asa such as 100 and using a tripod. You really notice the high resolution and there is a sense of motion with the exhauste.

I had never been to Weymouth before a couple of Saturday's ago and was pleased to be able to recognise the station.

Cheers.

BillEWS.

devon_metro · 4th July 2007, 18:47

He didn't use a tripod IIRC!

Daniel · 4th July 2007, 19:07

Blummin' steady hands, then!

Rich · 4th July 2007, 19:12

Bill EWS · 4th July 2007, 19:18

Even more 'well done'. However, I am forgetting many on here are quite young people and of course, have better breath control than when you are a lot older!!! Here is a B&W picture that I took at a 15th of a second, with 400 asa film and a Russian 'Zenith' SLR, waaaaaaaaaaaay back in 1975. Proof that I could do that quite easily back then, but I certainly wouldn't expect to get away with it today. Enjoy the ability while you can, dear friends!

The photo is of Saddle Tank No. 1 'Bonnie Prince Charlie', snapped in the gloom of Didcot Steam Depot, in the early years of the Great Western Society, at Didcot. They were at Taplow prior to this.

Oh, dear, makes me feel old.

Cheers.

BillEWS.

16CSVT2700 · 4th July 2007, 19:22

Night photography with the Canon EOS 400D:

1, Turn the mode dial to M
2, Make sure the self-timer is activated (to prevent shaking when the shutter is released)
3, Focus on the subject you want to photograph by pressing the shutter to half way as you would normally, however use your middle finger to do it.
4, Use your index finger to move the dial next to the shutter button to the left or right, while looking through the viewfinder, until the arrow under the exposure metre icon in the lower part shows this:

Code:

2 - - 1 - - 0 - - 1 - - 2
            ^

This means that the exposure is at the right setting for the shot. If the Arrow is to the right, it is over exposed, if the arrow is to the left, it is underexposed.

Hope this helps

Craig · 4th July 2007, 19:31

If you're using a tripod turn on mirror lockup in custom functions and use the timer. This will move the mirror up a few seconds before actually taking the photo to reduce any vibrations from the mirror moving.

ISO100, 20 seconds, F11

ISO100, 2.5 seconds, F8

ISO160, 5 seconds, F11

martyn29 · 4th July 2007, 20:14

thanks guys! cant wait to try it out!!

Mintona · 9th July 2007, 21:50

What does the "F" mean? I'm guessing it is something to do with aperture? I heard it is best to make that be as small as possible?

And Jamie, thanks for those tips, will certainly be useful in Carlisle, even though my camera is slightly different, it still has all those settings on

Craig · 9th July 2007, 22:59

The F number is the aperture (how much light is allowed through the lens). A low aperture allows lots of light through allowing a slower shutter speed. But the downside is it reduces the depth of field of the photo (how much is in focus). Somewhere around F8-F11 allows a decent depth of field. Something lower is good if you want to blur the background to make something stand out.

These two photos were taken at F1.8, you can see the effect that focusing at different distances has.

Wikipedia explains it properly:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture

4th July 2007, 12:02	#1
martyn29 HST MARTYN Member Join Date: 4 Apr 2007 Location: Leicester Posts: 802	taking Night pics with a Canon Eos400d Whats the best lens, setting to use, obviously I know you cant use the flash. Many thanks Martyn

4th July 2007, 15:45	#2
Beaker Banned Join Date: 4 Sep 2005 Location: Not the drawing room Posts: 1,488	Depends how dark it is. Last edited by Beaker; 4th July 2007 at 15:52.

4th July 2007, 18:47	#7
devon_metro Established Member Join Date: 11 Oct 2005 Location: Bristol Posts: 7,519	He didn't use a tripod IIRC! __________________ South West Railways

4th July 2007, 19:07	#8
Daniel Signal Operator Established Member Join Date: 5 Oct 2005 Location: London Posts: 2,305	Blummin' steady hands, then! __________________ "Signaller, Harrow..?"

4th July 2007, 19:12	#9
Rich Established Member Join Date: 10 Jun 2005 Location: Manchester Posts: 2,846	__________________ The Red Right Hand Site Engineer - Manchester Metrolink Extension (Airport Line)

4th July 2007, 17:26	#4
Bill EWS Member Join Date: 10 Feb 2006 Location: Didcot Posts: 418	Hi, The best time for night shots is when there is still a bit of daylight to avoid inky-black skies. However, your digital camera will manage a better job of this than film so you will get away with it. You could set the ASA to 16000 but I don't recommend it unless absolutely neccessary, so try 800asa. 'Auto white' should take care of the white baance but there are a number of artificial light settings you can try for varying results. If you aren't happy with the grain/noise from 800 asa then lower it to 400. However, the higher asa settings will help you gain a fast enough shutter speed to stop movement. You will require a longer exposure. I often took night exposures of 30-32 seconds with 100 asa film and got very acceptable results. If you can't get a fast shutter speed then use a tripod. Here is an example of a 30-32 second exposure with a film camera (on a tripod). I also used an 80B 'blue' filter to convert the daylight film for artificial light use. The interesting thing with the picture above was how steady the driver stayed throughout the exposure. Likewise, the telling of whether your exposure is quite accuarate for the lighting conditions, is in how much detail you see inside the loco cab (this could be a shop window etc). Too much exposure and the detail would be washed out and, too little it would look too dark. And here is a couple of handheld shots with my Canon 350D SLR. At 16000 asa.... White light balance was on 'auto'. Trust that this helps. Cheers. BillEWS.

4th July 2007, 17:38	#5
Beaker Banned Join Date: 4 Sep 2005 Location: Not the drawing room Posts: 1,488	1/1 F3.5 ISO 100

4th July 2007, 17:48	#6
Bill EWS Member Join Date: 10 Feb 2006 Location: Didcot Posts: 418	Hi Beaker, That's a very nice example of using a lower asa such as 100 and using a tripod. You really notice the high resolution and there is a sense of motion with the exhauste. I had never been to Weymouth before a couple of Saturday's ago and was pleased to be able to recognise the station. Cheers. BillEWS.

4th July 2007, 19:18	#10
Bill EWS Member Join Date: 10 Feb 2006 Location: Didcot Posts: 418	Even more 'well done'. However, I am forgetting many on here are quite young people and of course, have better breath control than when you are a lot older!!! Here is a B&W picture that I took at a 15th of a second, with 400 asa film and a Russian 'Zenith' SLR, waaaaaaaaaaaay back in 1975. Proof that I could do that quite easily back then, but I certainly wouldn't expect to get away with it today. Enjoy the ability while you can, dear friends! The photo is of Saddle Tank No. 1 'Bonnie Prince Charlie', snapped in the gloom of Didcot Steam Depot, in the early years of the Great Western Society, at Didcot. They were at Taplow prior to this. Oh, dear, makes me feel old. Cheers. BillEWS.

4th July 2007, 19:22	#11
16CSVT2700 What am best gun?! Established Member Join Date: 4 Sep 2005 Location: Gdansk Posts: 1,833	Night photography with the Canon EOS 400D: 1, Turn the mode dial to M 2, Make sure the self-timer is activated (to prevent shaking when the shutter is released) 3, Focus on the subject you want to photograph by pressing the shutter to half way as you would normally, however use your middle finger to do it. 4, Use your index finger to move the dial next to the shutter button to the left or right, while looking through the viewfinder, until the arrow under the exposure metre icon in the lower part shows this: Code: 2 - - 1 - - 0 - - 1 - - 2 ^ This means that the exposure is at the right setting for the shot. If the Arrow is to the right, it is over exposed, if the arrow is to the left, it is underexposed. Hope this helps __________________

4th July 2007, 19:31	#12
Craig Banned Join Date: 15 Jun 2005 Location: Newcastle Posts: 3,956	If you're using a tripod turn on mirror lockup in custom functions and use the timer. This will move the mirror up a few seconds before actually taking the photo to reduce any vibrations from the mirror moving. ISO100, 20 seconds, F11 ISO100, 2.5 seconds, F8 ISO160, 5 seconds, F11

4th July 2007, 20:14	#13
martyn29 HST MARTYN Member Join Date: 4 Apr 2007 Location: Leicester Posts: 802	thanks guys! cant wait to try it out!!

9th July 2007, 21:50	#14
Mintona Train Driver Established Member Join Date: 8 Jan 2006 Location: Gillingham, Kent Posts: 2,293	What does the "F" mean? I'm guessing it is something to do with aperture? I heard it is best to make that be as small as possible? And Jamie, thanks for those tips, will certainly be useful in Carlisle, even though my camera is slightly different, it still has all those settings on Last edited by Mintona; 9th July 2007 at 21:51.

9th July 2007, 22:59	#15
Craig Banned Join Date: 15 Jun 2005 Location: Newcastle Posts: 3,956	The F number is the aperture (how much light is allowed through the lens). A low aperture allows lots of light through allowing a slower shutter speed. But the downside is it reduces the depth of field of the photo (how much is in focus). Somewhere around F8-F11 allows a decent depth of field. Something lower is good if you want to blur the background to make something stand out. These two photos were taken at F1.8, you can see the effect that focusing at different distances has. Wikipedia explains it properly: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture