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A question about operating the Speed Set on the Class 390

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Kurolus Rex

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Bit of a pedantic one here (when are my threads not? ;))

I'm not sure how exactly to explain this clearly, so i'll give an example instead:

  • You, the driver, have just accelerated up to a 20mph limit and have activated the speed set and are in Notch 3 or 4 of power.
  • The speed limit has just increased to a higher speed limit and you can now accelerate up to this speed
In this scenario, are drivers trained to:
  • A. Disable the speed set and start off accelerating in Notch 3 or 4 of power.
  • B. Reduce power first to a lower notch, then disable the speed set and build the power back up again.
If anyone could shed some light on this topic i would be very grateful!
 
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R

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You need to move the power brake controller (PBC) away from a power position to disengage speed set, so in your example you'd move the PBC to off and then take power again to accelerate (typically straight into notch 4).
 

Kurolus Rex

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You need to move the power brake controller (PBC) away from a power position to disengage speed set, so in your example you'd move the PBC to off and then take power again to accelerate (typically straight into notch 4).

Thanks!

Does going straight into Notch 4 create any discomfort or is that not an issue?
 
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Nothing noticeable if you're already moving, it's only from a stand that you'd aim to use a lower setting.
 
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Acceleration isn't their strong point, so forget about notch one. I tend to start rolling in two, then up to three and am in notch four before reaching 15mph. Everyone drives them slightly different though.
 

Kurolus Rex

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Acceleration isn't their strong point, so forget about notch one. I tend to start rolling in two, then up to three and am in notch four before reaching 15mph. Everyone drives them slightly different though.

Thanks. What about the process prior to taking power? (DRA, signal to guard, brakes, reverser etc). I'm asking because i want to learn how to drive these trains authentically in a simulator. Here is my current technique:

  1. Buzz back to guard
  2. Disable DRA
  3. PBC: Step 6 - Off
  4. Reverser: Forward
  5. PBC: Off - Notch 2
  6. Notch 3 usually reached by 5mph
  7. Notch 4 reached around 15mph
Is that in the right order or would you do it differently? I have a feeling some of it might be wrong.
 

driver9000

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Thanks. What about the process prior to taking power? (DRA, signal to guard, brakes, reverser etc). I'm asking because i want to learn how to drive these trains authentically in a simulator. Here is my current technique:

  1. Buzz back to guard
  2. Disable DRA
  3. PBC: Step 6 - Off
  4. Reverser: Forward
  5. PBC: Off - Notch 2
  6. Notch 3 usually reached by 5mph
  7. Notch 4 reached around 15mph
Is that in the right order or would you do it differently? I have a feeling some of it might be wrong.

Reset the DRA when the signal clears because that is what it applies to and select direction before releasing the brake (not sure if the handle is locked by the direction switch on a 390).
 

ComUtoR

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Is there a hillstart button or some description ?
 
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Here is my current technique:

  1. Buzz back to guard
  2. Disable DRA
  3. PBC: Step 6 - Off
  4. Reverser: Forward
  5. PBC: Off - Notch 2
  6. Notch 3 usually reached by 5mph
  7. Notch 4 reached around 15mph

Try:

  1. Reset DRA when signal clears.
  2. Two on the buzzer back to the Train Manager (although RA is the default means of dispatch)
  3. Directional switch to Forward
  4. PBC from Step 6 to Notch 2*
  5. Notch 3 then 4
*Supposed to pause briefly in off to allow brake pressure to drop before applying power.


Is there a hillstart button or some description ?

Yes, there is a push button (more like a black sphere/ball) on top of the PBC, this needs to be pressed down to pass from off into a power position.

Pressing the button when stationary (or below 3mph) engages the hillstart (step two braking) - therefore for a hillstart keep the button held down when moving into a power position - release when confident enough power has been generated. If not performing a hillstart, the button is only held down very briefly to move from off into a power position.

390021%20Interior%201%2069221%20DMSO%20Cab%20Drivers%20291006g-L.jpg
 

driver_m

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Thanks. What about the process prior to taking power? (DRA, signal to guard, brakes, reverser etc). I'm asking because i want to learn how to drive these trains authentically in a simulator. Here is my current technique:

  1. Buzz back to guard
  2. Disable DRA
  3. PBC: Step 6 - Off
  4. Reverser: Forward
  5. PBC: Off - Notch 2
  6. Notch 3 usually reached by 5mph
  7. Notch 4 reached around 15mph
Is that in the right order or would you do it differently? I have a feeling some of it might be wrong.

DRA should have been took off at this point. You can’t do the procedure on a red.
After getting ready to start,

Put it in Forward
Move PBC from brake step 6 and go to appropriate power notch. There isn’t a right or wrong power to apply really. Though 1 I would only really use on the shed.
 

Kurolus Rex

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169
Try:

  1. Reset DRA when signal clears.
  2. Two on the buzzer back to the Train Manager (although RA is the default means of dispatch)
  3. Directional switch to Forward
  4. PBC from Step 6 to Notch 2*
  5. Notch 3 then 4
*Supposed to pause briefly in off to allow brake pressure to drop before applying power.




Yes, there is a push button (more like a black sphere/ball) on top of the PBC, this needs to be pressed down to pass from off into a power position.

Pressing the button when stationary (or below 3mph) engages the hillstart (step two braking) - therefore for a hillstart keep the button held down when moving into a power position - release when confident enough power has been generated. If not performing a hillstart, the button is only held down very briefly to move from off into a power position.

390021%20Interior%201%2069221%20DMSO%20Cab%20Drivers%20291006g-L.jpg
DRA should have been took off at this point. You can’t do the procedure on a red.
After getting ready to start,

Put it in Forward
Move PBC from brake step 6 and go to appropriate power notch. There isn’t a right or wrong power to apply really. Though 1 I would only really use on the shed.

Thanks, exactly what i was looking for! Also a very nice shot of the cab ;)
 

EE Andy b1

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Does going straight into Notch 4 create any discomfort or is that not an issue?

If poor rail adhesion and the set starts slipping on acceleration then you can get slight shocks through the train, so then ease off power and re-apply more slowly notch at a time until the set gets it's feet again, so to speak!
 

87015

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Any English WC depot deriding another is pretty comical when Polmadie wiped the floor in days of trains worth driving. Everyone else needed a special excuse to do it like it could be done!
 

PudseyBearHST

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What would you suggest then? ;)

No messing about, you’ve got the xx07 Liverpool train right behind you, simulator or no simulator ;) I don’t see the problem in going straight to full power after a few of seconds as long as not starting on a single yellow or poor adhesion as Andy says.

I know of at least 1 Wolverhampton driver on this forum so let’s stop before he reads this thread and boasts how he hit a platform at a mind blowing 25mph the other day <:D


Any English WC depot deriding another is pretty comical when Polmadie wiped the floor in days of trains worth driving. Everyone else needed a special excuse to do it like it could be done!

Yeah you know whether it’s a Polmadie or Preston driver you’re relieving without even looking at your diagram just by the time the train gets in haha
 
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Kurolus Rex

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No messing about, you’ve got the xx07 Liverpool train right behind you, simulator or no simulator ;) I don’t see the problem in going straight to full power after a few of seconds as long as not starting on a single yellow or poor adhesion as Andy says.

I know of at least 1 Wolverhampton driver on this forum so let’s stop before he reads this thread and boasts how he hit a platform at a mind blowing 25mph the other day <:D




Yeah you know whether it’s a Polmadie or Preston driver you’re relieving without even looking at your diagram just by the time the train gets in haha

Noted, i'll give Notch 3 once i'm rolling quickly followed by Notch 4 a try.

I must admit i find all this depot banta quite amusing to watch :lol:
 

driver_m

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Any English WC depot deriding another is pretty comical when Polmadie wiped the floor in days of trains worth driving. Everyone else needed a special excuse to do it like it could be done!

Hehe, this is getting into a ‘my dads bigger than yours’ so I shall indulge, The tales I got told from the ‘good old days’ definitely mean that Polmadie drivers were not on their own for testing a train to its capabilities. I don’t know if they ever came across Liverpool drivers in the old days for instance!
 

PudseyBearHST

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Wolves - we operate low velocity electric services? :)

Nope, I was told by a couple of Liverpool drivers that it stands for We Operate Locomotives & Vehicles Extremely Slo... I mean Quickly :D

Noted, i'll give Notch 3 once i'm rolling quickly followed by Notch 4 a try.

I must admit i find all this depot banta quite amusing to watch :lol:

Sounds more like it ;)
 
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