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To DCC or not?

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Tallpaul70

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I have only ever used DC control.

For a new layout I am being told that the cost of chipping 200 locos, that I have to run 5 different eras on a model (say 50/50 steam /diesel and of those 50/50 are with/without sockets) is less than the cost of a control panel with mimic track diagrams for a 12ft x8ft 3 track round and round layout with 60+ points, 30 isolated sections, and 15 signals.

Any advice welcome, also any thoughts on types of equipment, and traps for the unwary?

Many Thanks

Paul
 
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Cowley

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Welcome to the forum Paul.
I'm going through a similar although slightly different process at the moment.
I've always had 00 gauge DC controlled models, but I've recently been selling it off and replacing it with N gauge DCC instead.
I've got a friend who got into DCC a few years back and he's helped me a lot with understanding it all.
I've just purchased a Dapol (DCC fitted) 33 and a Farish (non DCC) 47.
I also purchased a Bachmann E-Z Command controller from eBay (it's fairly basic but then so am I with this kind of thing).

First experiences:
The 33 with the Dapol decoder wouldn't run properly with my controller. - It was only after I'd bought the loco that I found this out. It seems to be common knowledge, but it wasn't to me.
I purchased two Bachmann decoders at £25 each (didn't want to go for the cheapest and was told that these would work perfectly by the model shop), fitted them to both locos, they then ran but accelerated and slowed down like a full sized train! I.e. really slowly.
I tested the controller with my friends models and everything worked fine...
I've had to remove the decoders and send them back to the model shop for them to alter the CV (Computer Values) settings on them.
Hopefully this will sort things out and I won't be charged for it on top of what I've paid out already.

I am going to persist with it, although I did nearly throw my toys out of the pram on Saturday.
It can be expensive, but then all of it is expensive these days.
 

Peter C

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I have been using DCC for just over a year now. Yes, it is jolly expensive, but I think that if you spend the money in small amounts over a long period of time it can make it feel better on the wallet!
I use a Hornby Elite controller (if you want to buy one, look on Hatton's or other such sites-Hornby charge far too much) with primarily Hornby decoders. I have two engines each with Bachmann decoders (I'm not sure what version), and because both the decoders and the controller are NMRA compatible, they will work together.
I only have an Elite because I prefer to use Hornby products where controllers and some engines are concerned. Also, the Elite, to my knowledge, is the only Hornby controller that will deal with DCC Sound, which two of my engines use. If you want to run simple DCC engines, use a Select and Hornby decoders.*
In response to Cowley, I too have almost lost it with DCC many times. However, I persevered and I now have a DCC layout that works very well for what I want it to do! Also, if it's CVs that you want to change, I think that a small investment (if you can afford one, I'm not sure) into a second-hand Hornby Select controller or similar device for programming would be easier than having to take the decoders back to the model shop every time you need something changed. I don't quite understand how the CVs work, but I'm sure with some Googling you can find something.

-Peter
 

Cowley

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I have been using DCC for just over a year now. Yes, it is jolly expensive, but I think that if you spend the money in small amounts over a long period of time it can make it feel better on the wallet!
I use a Hornby Elite controller (if you want to buy one, look on Hatton's or other such sites-Hornby charge far too much) with primarily Hornby decoders. I have two engines each with Bachmann decoders (I'm not sure what version), and because both the decoders and the controller are NMRA compatible, they will work together.
I only have an Elite because I prefer to use Hornby products where controllers and some engines are concerned. Also, the Elite, to my knowledge, is the only Hornby controller that will deal with DCC Sound, which two of my engines use. If you want to run simple DCC engines, use a Select and Hornby decoders.*
In response to Cowley, I too have almost lost it with DCC many times. However, I persevered and I now have a DCC layout that works very well for what I want it to do! Also, if it's CVs that you want to change, I think that a small investment (if you can afford one, I'm not sure) into a second-hand Hornby Select controller or similar device for programming would be easier than having to take the decoders back to the model shop every time you need something changed. I don't quite understand how the CVs work, but I'm sure with some Googling you can find something.

-Peter
Thanks Peter.
Yes I think I will invest in a better controller at some point.
I'd like to buy a sound fitted Dapol class 50 when they come out*, and I don't want to be taking it apart just for the sake of buying a decent controller...

* A question if anyone can help?

Has anyone had any experience of DCC sound in an N gauge loco/DMU?
My friend has a 00 gauge Heljan 33 with sound and it sounds great, but the speaker in an N gauge model must be tiny...
 

Peter C

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Thanks Peter.
Yes I think I will invest in a better controller at some point.
I'd like to buy a sound fitted Dapol class 50 when they come out*, and I don't want to be taking it apart just for the sake of buying a decent controller...

* A question if anyone can help?

Has anyone had any experience of DCC sound in an N gauge loco/DMU?
My friend has a 00 gauge Heljan 33 with sound and it sounds great, but the speaker in an N gauge model must be tiny...
Sorry, but I haven't had any experience in N gauge. I'm sure that you can get your local model railway retailer to fit a speaker if that's what you want; I definitely wouldn't want to fit one!
 

Cowley

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Sorry, but I haven't had any experience in N gauge. I'm sure that you can get your local model railway retailer to fit a speaker if that's what you want; I definitely wouldn't want to fit one!
Costs a fortune. I had to sit down hurriedly when I was given a price. :lol:
 

wireforever

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I attended the Perth show a couple of years ago and Legomanbiffo gave a good talk on DCC sound the speakers used are the same as mobile phone speakers/led tv's but various suppliers now make larger speakers with more bass sound ie to make the sound louder.Previous posts it is expensive but Hornby TTS decoders are less expensive and to me sound fine in my Hornby HST I still have more DC locos than DCC and that is how it will remain due to cost and not wishing to over complicate matters
 

Peter C

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Costs a fortune. I had to sit down hurriedly when I was given a price. :lol:
Ha! I'm very lucky in the fact that I'm sure that my local supplier would charge very little or nothing at all for the fitting of a speaker.*

*(He has fitted DCC decoders free-of-charge before, but I'm not sure if he would fit a speaker to an N gauge loco for free; he might charge a little for it).
 

Cowley

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A quick update:
I got the decoders back and fitted them to the 33 and 47, both of which now run superbly well.
The controllability of them on slow speed is amazing. You can set them to creep along at an almost imperceptible speed and they just won't stall.
I really like it.
 

whhistle

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Realistically, if you're going with a Train set, go DC.
If you want a proper model railway, go DCC.

Saying that, I still use a simple switch set up for points.
If I was going to automate and use routes, I'd use DCC and a whole computer system.
 

Belperpete

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I have only ever used DC control. For a new layout I am being told that the cost of chipping 200 locos, that I have to run 5 different eras on a model (say 50/50 steam /diesel and of those 50/50 are with/without sockets) is less than the cost of a control panel with mimic track diagrams for a 12ft x8ft 3 track round and round layout with 60+ points, 30 isolated sections, and 15 signals.
Are you comparing like-for-like here? If you go full-DCC, then you will need to chip the 60+ points and signals too. If you don't chip the points and signals, then you will still need a conventional control panel for the points and signals.
When you say "the cost of a control panel with mimic track diagrams" are you paying someone to build and wire a control panel for you? If you build it yourself, it surely isn't going to cost very much. The simplest control panel is just a piece of ply or aly with rows of holes drilled in it, and toggle switches mounted in the holes. For 60+ points, 30 isolating sections and 15 signals you would need a panel with say 100 switches (you can often operate two point-ends from the same switch, e.g. if they are a crossover). So at say £2 a switch, a DIY panel will cost in the order of £200. You won't get anything like 200 decoders for that price - especially not sound ones! For most modellers, who build their own control panel, DCC is considerably more expensive than DC.

The big selling point of DCC for me is for the sound. The buzzing noise given off by the electric motor, particularly in a steam-outline model, just seems so unrealistic and annoying after you have experienced a sound-equipped loco.

Whilst the sound does depend on the quality of the speaker, it is also heavily dependent on the correct mounting of the speaker, in an accoustic chamber. Just plonking a loudspeaker any-old-where in a loco is likely to produce rubbish results.

DCC offers far-superior slow-speed running, as the loco is still receiving full power. However, in my experience, with DCC you do still need to keep your tracks clean, just as much (if not more so) than with DC. If the loco loses power, it will still stop dead! More irritatingly, a minor blip that may go almost unnoticed with DC (because the inertia of the loco keeps it going sufficiently to re-establish contact), with DCC can cause the chip to "reset", so it starts the loco from a stand again.

Personally, I don't like the way points and signals are controlled with DCC, especially if you have a lot of points and signals. Having to remember the code for each point and signal (or route, if you go that way) is just over-complicated, and I really don't want to go to computer control. I find it a lot simpler to just throw a switch, with a separate switch for each function, so like whhistler, I will be sticking with the traditional method for point and signal control.

I had thought that my DCC controller would control a non-chipped loco by using code 0, but apparently not. So I am keeping my old DC controller until I have chipped all my locos, with a switch on the panel to switch between the two controllers. I have a fairly simple layout, where only one train runs at a time, and the locos not in use will be isolated in sidings by the points, so I won't need any isolating sections.

It sounds like your layout is going to be a lot more complicated. Unless you have really deep pockets, it is going to take you quite awhile to chip all your 200 locos. In which case, you might want to think about how you are going to operate until they are all chipped. My suggestion would be to start with one of your 3 tracks as DCC, or switchable between DC and DCC, then as you get more locos chipped, to convert the second track to DCC, and so on.

As an electrical engineer, I have a concern about feeding such a complicated layout all from one DCC supply: any short-circuit, anywhere on the layout, could bring the whole caboodle to a grinding halt. And with everything connected in parallel, it could take quite awhile to trace the short-circuit. Perhaps someone with practical experience of DCC on a complex, multi-track layout might like to chip-in here?
 

Cowley

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Are you comparing like-for-like here? If you go full-DCC, then you will need to chip the 60+ points and signals too. If you don't chip the points and signals, then you will still need a conventional control panel for the points and signals.
When you say "the cost of a control panel with mimic track diagrams" are you paying someone to build and wire a control panel for you? If you build it yourself, it surely isn't going to cost very much. The simplest control panel is just a piece of ply or aly with rows of holes drilled in it, and toggle switches mounted in the holes. For 60+ points, 30 isolating sections and 15 signals you would need a panel with say 100 switches (you can often operate two point-ends from the same switch, e.g. if they are a crossover). So at say £2 a switch, a DIY panel will cost in the order of £200. You won't get anything like 200 decoders for that price - especially not sound ones! For most modellers, who build their own control panel, DCC is considerably more expensive than DC.

The big selling point of DCC for me is for the sound. The buzzing noise given off by the electric motor, particularly in a steam-outline model, just seems so unrealistic and annoying after you have experienced a sound-equipped loco.

Whilst the sound does depend on the quality of the speaker, it is also heavily dependent on the correct mounting of the speaker, in an accoustic chamber. Just plonking a loudspeaker any-old-where in a loco is likely to produce rubbish results.

DCC offers far-superior slow-speed running, as the loco is still receiving full power. However, in my experience, with DCC you do still need to keep your tracks clean, just as much (if not more so) than with DC. If the loco loses power, it will still stop dead! More irritatingly, a minor blip that may go almost unnoticed with DC (because the inertia of the loco keeps it going sufficiently to re-establish contact), with DCC can cause the chip to "reset", so it starts the loco from a stand again.

Personally, I don't like the way points and signals are controlled with DCC, especially if you have a lot of points and signals. Having to remember the code for each point and signal (or route, if you go that way) is just over-complicated, and I really don't want to go to computer control. I find it a lot simpler to just throw a switch, with a separate switch for each function, so like whhistler, I will be sticking with the traditional method for point and signal control.

I had thought that my DCC controller would control a non-chipped loco by using code 0, but apparently not. So I am keeping my old DC controller until I have chipped all my locos, with a switch on the panel to switch between the two controllers. I have a fairly simple layout, where only one train runs at a time, and the locos not in use will be isolated in sidings by the points, so I won't need any isolating sections.

It sounds like your layout is going to be a lot more complicated. Unless you have really deep pockets, it is going to take you quite awhile to chip all your 200 locos. In which case, you might want to think about how you are going to operate until they are all chipped. My suggestion would be to start with one of your 3 tracks as DCC, or switchable between DC and DCC, then as you get more locos chipped, to convert the second track to DCC, and so on.

As an electrical engineer, I have a concern about feeding such a complicated layout all from one DCC supply: any short-circuit, anywhere on the layout, could bring the whole caboodle to a grinding halt. And with everything connected in parallel, it could take quite awhile to trace the short-circuit. Perhaps someone with practical experience of DCC on a complex, multi-track layout might like to chip-in here?
Belperpete - This has been very useful and has backed up what I was thinking re point motors etc.
 

Tallpaul70

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Are you comparing like-for-like here? If you go full-DCC, then you will need to chip the 60+ points and signals too. If you don't chip the points and signals, then you will still need a conventional control panel for the points and signals.
When you say "the cost of a control panel with mimic track diagrams" are you paying someone to build and wire a control panel for you? If you build it yourself, it surely isn't going to cost very much. The simplest control panel is just a piece of ply or aly with rows of holes drilled in it, and toggle switches mounted in the holes. For 60+ points, 30 isolating sections and 15 signals you would need a panel with say 100 switches (you can often operate two point-ends from the same switch, e.g. if they are a crossover). So at say £2 a switch, a DIY panel will cost in the order of £200. You won't get anything like 200 decoders for that price - especially not sound ones! For most modellers, who build their own control panel, DCC is considerably more expensive than DC.

The big selling point of DCC for me is for the sound. The buzzing noise given off by the electric motor, particularly in a steam-outline model, just seems so unrealistic and annoying after you have experienced a sound-equipped loco.

Whilst the sound does depend on the quality of the speaker, it is also heavily dependent on the correct mounting of the speaker, in an accoustic chamber. Just plonking a loudspeaker any-old-where in a loco is likely to produce rubbish results.

DCC offers far-superior slow-speed running, as the loco is still receiving full power. However, in my experience, with DCC you do still need to keep your tracks clean, just as much (if not more so) than with DC. If the loco loses power, it will still stop dead! More irritatingly, a minor blip that may go almost unnoticed with DC (because the inertia of the loco keeps it going sufficiently to re-establish contact), with DCC can cause the chip to "reset", so it starts the loco from a stand again.

Personally, I don't like the way points and signals are controlled with DCC, especially if you have a lot of points and signals. Having to remember the code for each point and signal (or route, if you go that way) is just over-complicated, and I really don't want to go to computer control. I find it a lot simpler to just throw a switch, with a separate switch for each function, so like whhistler, I will be sticking with the traditional method for point and signal control.

I had thought that my DCC controller would control a non-chipped loco by using code 0, but apparently not. So I am keeping my old DC controller until I have chipped all my locos, with a switch on the panel to switch between the two controllers. I have a fairly simple layout, where only one train runs at a time, and the locos not in use will be isolated in sidings by the points, so I won't need any isolating sections.

It sounds like your layout is going to be a lot more complicated. Unless you have really deep pockets, it is going to take you quite awhile to chip all your 200 locos. In which case, you might want to think about how you are going to operate until they are all chipped. My suggestion would be to start with one of your 3 tracks as DCC, or switchable between DC and DCC, then as you get more locos chipped, to convert the second track to DCC, and so on.

As an electrical engineer, I have a concern about feeding such a complicated layout all from one DCC supply: any short-circuit, anywhere on the layout, could bring the whole caboodle to a grinding halt. And with everything connected in parallel, it could take quite awhile to trace the short-circuit. Perhaps someone with practical experience of DCC on a complex, multi-track layout might like to chip-in here?

I am getting my layout and control system built as my skills are limited (as proven by past attempts at such work)! My current thinking is to find a space for a simple small layout for my Hornby00 and vintage Triang collection, which I can probably manage to put together. The main layout will have to always have to be Dc, DCC or a mixture, whichever I choose, as I do not intend messing around with it and probably ruining the reliability. Similarly with chipping, although, yes, this can be done over a period of time.
Best regards
Paul
 

Peter C

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Are you comparing like-for-like here? If you go full-DCC, then you will need to chip the 60+ points and signals too. If you don't chip the points and signals, then you will still need a conventional control panel for the points and signals.
When you say "the cost of a control panel with mimic track diagrams" are you paying someone to build and wire a control panel for you? If you build it yourself, it surely isn't going to cost very much. The simplest control panel is just a piece of ply or aly with rows of holes drilled in it, and toggle switches mounted in the holes. For 60+ points, 30 isolating sections and 15 signals you would need a panel with say 100 switches (you can often operate two point-ends from the same switch, e.g. if they are a crossover). So at say £2 a switch, a DIY panel will cost in the order of £200. You won't get anything like 200 decoders for that price - especially not sound ones! For most modellers, who build their own control panel, DCC is considerably more expensive than DC.

The big selling point of DCC for me is for the sound. The buzzing noise given off by the electric motor, particularly in a steam-outline model, just seems so unrealistic and annoying after you have experienced a sound-equipped loco.

Whilst the sound does depend on the quality of the speaker, it is also heavily dependent on the correct mounting of the speaker, in an accoustic chamber. Just plonking a loudspeaker any-old-where in a loco is likely to produce rubbish results.

DCC offers far-superior slow-speed running, as the loco is still receiving full power. However, in my experience, with DCC you do still need to keep your tracks clean, just as much (if not more so) than with DC. If the loco loses power, it will still stop dead! More irritatingly, a minor blip that may go almost unnoticed with DC (because the inertia of the loco keeps it going sufficiently to re-establish contact), with DCC can cause the chip to "reset", so it starts the loco from a stand again.

Personally, I don't like the way points and signals are controlled with DCC, especially if you have a lot of points and signals. Having to remember the code for each point and signal (or route, if you go that way) is just over-complicated, and I really don't want to go to computer control. I find it a lot simpler to just throw a switch, with a separate switch for each function, so like whhistler, I will be sticking with the traditional method for point and signal control.

I had thought that my DCC controller would control a non-chipped loco by using code 0, but apparently not. So I am keeping my old DC controller until I have chipped all my locos, with a switch on the panel to switch between the two controllers. I have a fairly simple layout, where only one train runs at a time, and the locos not in use will be isolated in sidings by the points, so I won't need any isolating sections.

It sounds like your layout is going to be a lot more complicated. Unless you have really deep pockets, it is going to take you quite awhile to chip all your 200 locos. In which case, you might want to think about how you are going to operate until they are all chipped. My suggestion would be to start with one of your 3 tracks as DCC, or switchable between DC and DCC, then as you get more locos chipped, to convert the second track to DCC, and so on.

As an electrical engineer, I have a concern about feeding such a complicated layout all from one DCC supply: any short-circuit, anywhere on the layout, could bring the whole caboodle to a grinding halt. And with everything connected in parallel, it could take quite awhile to trace the short-circuit. Perhaps someone with practical experience of DCC on a complex, multi-track layout might like to chip-in here?
I think that DCC sound is a good idea, but if you have all of your engines making sounds at once it can get a bit too loud and annoying.
 

Shaw S Hunter

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I think that DCC sound is a good idea, but if you have all of your engines making sounds at once it can get a bit too loud and annoying.

Laws of physics: you can't scale down sound. Doubtless it's here to stay but as you say it does seem rather pointless on busy layouts.
 

Belperpete

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With DCC, a stationary loco will still make sound: a diesel loco will continue ticking over, a steam loco will hiss away, with the occasional sound of the fireman shoveling coal. This is quite an attractive feature. For example, if you hold a stopping train in a platform loop while running an express train past it, the lights on the stopping train will realistically stay lit and it will continue to make "stationary noises". However, if you have a lot of stationary locos on the layout you will probably not want them all making sound! You can turn a loco's sound on and off from the controller, or it will automatically turn off after the loco has been stationary for a time.

With DCC, you need to consider how you want the points to work electrically. Most points automatically disconnect the power from the left-hand track when the points are set for the right-hand track, and vice-versa. This is quite useful with conventional DC control, as it saves having to provide isolating sections for all the sidings. While DCC will work with points configured this way, it is not ideal - it means that any loco or train on the isolated track will lose power, so the lights will instantly go out and the sound instantly turn off when you change the points. With DCC, ideally every track and siding should be permanently powered. DCC buffer-stops and other DCC accessories that get their power from the track also need the track to be permanently fed. I think the latest PECO points can be reconfigured for DCC so that they don't isolate the tracks.

If you are going to run both DC and DCC, you might consider providing an isolating section for each track, wired so that the isolating switch controls the power to that track regardless of the lie of the points. Under DC, you can use the switch to isolate a loco on that track. Under DCC, you can leave the power connected, even with the points set the other way, so that a train stood there is still lit and making sound. This also has the advantage that you are not relying on the point blades to switch the track power. Even if you don't do this everywhere, it is worth considering for places where you might want the train lights to stay on and the loco making sound - this is the approach I am taking for passing loops and platforms, leaving stabling sidings switched by the points.

It is important that you consider this BEFORE you get your layout built, as it will be difficult to modify later on.
 

Cowley

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With DCC, a stationary loco will still make sound: a diesel loco will continue ticking over, a steam loco will hiss away, with the occasional sound of the fireman shoveling coal. This is quite an attractive feature. For example, if you hold a stopping train in a platform loop while running an express train past it, the lights on the stopping train will realistically stay lit and it will continue to make "stationary noises". However, if you have a lot of stationary locos on the layout you will probably not want them all making sound! You can turn a loco's sound on and off from the controller, or it will automatically turn off after the loco has been stationary for a time.

With DCC, you need to consider how you want the points to work electrically. Most points automatically disconnect the power from the left-hand track when the points are set for the right-hand track, and vice-versa. This is quite useful with conventional DC control, as it saves having to provide isolating sections for all the sidings. While DCC will work with points configured this way, it is not ideal - it means that any loco or train on the isolated track will lose power, so the lights will instantly go out and the sound instantly turn off when you change the points. With DCC, ideally every track and siding should be permanently powered. DCC buffer-stops and other DCC accessories that get their power from the track also need the track to be permanently fed. I think the latest PECO points can be reconfigured for DCC so that they don't isolate the tracks.

If you are going to run both DC and DCC, you might consider providing an isolating section for each track, wired so that the isolating switch controls the power to that track regardless of the lie of the points. Under DC, you can use the switch to isolate a loco on that track. Under DCC, you can leave the power connected, even with the points set the other way, so that a train stood there is still lit and making sound. This also has the advantage that you are not relying on the point blades to switch the track power. Even if you don't do this everywhere, it is worth considering for places where you might want the train lights to stay on and the loco making sound - this is the approach I am taking for passing loops and platforms, leaving stabling sidings switched by the points.

It is important that you consider this BEFORE you get your layout built, as it will be difficult to modify later on.
Spot on.
I've decided to go for Electrofrog points rather than Insulfrogs for the first time for smoother running.
This has meant more initial work (soldering etc), but eventually it'll hopefully become simpler.
I'm also with you on using toggle switches for points rather than trying to work them via a DCC controller.
I just want it all to work properly, I'm not really equipped with the know how when it comes to complicated digital controllers etc.
I'm looking forward to having one loco ticking over while another is shunting however...
 

Tallpaul70

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Spot on.
I've decided to go for Electrofrog points rather than Insulfrogs for the first time for smoother running.
This has meant more initial work (soldering etc), but eventually it'll hopefully become simpler.
I'm also with you on using toggle switches for points rather than trying to work them via a DCC controller.
I just want it all to work properly, I'm not really equipped with the know how when it comes to complicated digital controllers etc.
I'm looking forward to having one loco ticking over while another is shunting however...

I think Peco have clips available that allow feed to both arms of points?

A Mimic diagram on a Laptop computer where the points etc are operated by clicking on them on the diagram sounds good, but I am with you that it needs to be idiot proof and not need a lot of technical knowhow to fault find.

Sound is great but if you have more than a handful of locos, if you cannot fit the chips yourself then it is expensive.

I have decided I will have sound chipped the locos/multiple units that will accelerate/slow/stop in the scenic part of my layout and leave the through trains without. If I find I have the cash i will get them done later.
I have heard some good reviews of the Hornby TTR sound so maybe when more chips are available for different locos etc. in that it will be worth considering. It does have limitations like only 2 sounds at a time, and no synchronisation between cylinder or motor beats and the sound. Yet to see one in action.
Cheers
Paul
 

Cowley

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I think Peco have clips available that allow feed to both arms of points?

A Mimic diagram on a Laptop computer where the points etc are operated by clicking on them on the diagram sounds good, but I am with you that it needs to be idiot proof and not need a lot of technical knowhow to fault find.

Sound is great but if you have more than a handful of locos, if you cannot fit the chips yourself then it is expensive.

I have decided I will have sound chipped the locos/multiple units that will accelerate/slow/stop in the scenic part of my layout and leave the through trains without. If I find I have the cash i will get them done later.
I have heard some good reviews of the Hornby TTR sound so maybe when more chips are available for different locos etc. in that it will be worth considering. It does have limitations like only 2 sounds at a time, and no synchronisation between cylinder or motor beats and the sound. Yet to see one in action.
Cheers
Paul
I was looking at some clips of TTS fitted locos on YouTube the other night. They sounded pretty good, but somehow not quite right.
Worth considering though...
Because I'm completely starting again with new stock I'm willing to have less locos than I had, but maybe getting a couple with factory sound fitted.
If I'll probably get the Dapol 50 with sound and perhaps a Bachmann DMU too. But I'd like to hear them properly before purchasing.
Of course it is all very expensive, but then I've been pleased to see my old 00 stuff going for more than I expected and that's what's paying for all of it.
 

Peter C

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Laws of physics: you can't scale down sound. Doubtless it's here to stay but as you say it does seem rather pointless on busy layouts.
Exactly. It would be lovely for a layout of, say, King's Cross to have every engine making sounds, steam, the whole deal, but it just wouldn't work, sadly!
 

Cowley

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Exactly. It would be lovely for a layout of, say, King's Cross to have every engine making sounds, steam, the whole deal, but it just wouldn't work, sadly!
My friend has an 0 gauge 25 with sound and he's got a simple terminus layout which it's perfect for.
I've been to shows where there's five or six locomotives making noises on one shed and it's a too much.
 

Peter C

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My friend has an 0 gauge 25 with sound and he's got a simple terminus layout which it's perfect for.
I've been to shows where there's five or six locomotives making noises on one shed and it's a too much.
That's the thing.
But the issue is;
if you had only one engine with sound, it would be out of place. Too many engines with sound and, as you say, it is too much.
 

Belperpete

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If I'll probably get the Dapol 50 with sound and perhaps a Bachmann DMU too. But I'd like to hear them properly before purchasing.
It's worth doing a search on Youtube for something you are considering.
 

Cowley

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It's worth doing a search on Youtube for something you are considering.
Neither have been released yet. But I need to stop frittering my money on Railfreight wagons like this or I won't be buying anything. :lol:

IMG_0843.JPG
 

SCH117X

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The advantage of dcc IMO is, subject to the system chosen, the control panel is entirely in your hand - no huge control panel with all its switches, wires and potential faults. Also the ability to make modifications without having the amend or build a new control panel.
 

Tallpaul70

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The advantage of dcc IMO is, subject to the system chosen, the control panel is entirely in your hand - no huge control panel with all its switches, wires and potential faults. Also the ability to make modifications without having the amend or build a new control panel.
Yes, that is a great advantage, as is not being tied to one location in your operating well. It avoids the "how do I control what is going on behind me with a train I need to stop" problem!
Cheers
Paul
 

Tallpaul70

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Hi Everyone,

Having made the decision to go to DCC, I think this thread has outlived its usefulness, so I am starting a new one called "My DCC Journey".

Thanks to all who have contributed, even when you have wandered off scale (This was meant to be a 00 only thread!), or stretched the boundaries of the subject!
I hope you will all read and contribute to my new thread?

Best regards
Paul
 
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