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My progress in making a 00 gauge GBRf Class 50

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Peter C

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Hello all.
After reading an article about how to create a GBRf "50" in this month's edition of Model Rail, I thought that I would have a go.
After posting a thread about where to find a bodyshell for a Class 50, I was encouraged to create a thread to update those who may be interested on my Class 50 modernisation. Because very few people are doing something like this and making it available online, this may be of interest to quite a few.

At the moment, I have a Lima Class 50 which has been fitted with a DCC decoder from Hatton's. Having looked at photos of the GBRf "50"s, I have painted the front areas around the cab windows black.
Photos to follow soon.

-Peter
 
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Peter C

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Update: I have received all of the items I need to make a GBRf Class 50 and the body sides have been painted in blue and yellow. However, the yellow paint is far too watered-down and is very difficult to use. This means that it always ends up underneath the masking tape.
Hopefully the paint will be done soon and the transfers can be added.

-Peter
 

Cowley

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What sort of masking tape are you using Peter? There’s a big difference in quality with some of them, I think I’ve got a Tamiya one downstairs which I found worked well.
You really have to work the tape into all the corners and bits of detail etc. Fiddly stuff though...
 

pdeaves

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However, the yellow paint is far too watered-down and is very difficult to use. This means that it always ends up underneath the masking tape.
Hopefully the paint will be done soon and the transfers can be added.
To get round seepage, apply masking tape, paint body colour again, then do the yellow. The body colour will seal under the tape and prevent the yellow from doing so.
 

Peter C

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To get round seepage, apply masking tape, paint body colour again, then do the yellow. The body colour will seal under the tape and prevent the yellow from doing so.
Thank you very much.

-Peter
 

Peter C

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What sort of masking tape are you using Peter? There’s a big difference in quality with some of them, I think I’ve got a Tamiya one downstairs which I found worked well.
You really have to work the tape into all the corners and bits of detail etc. Fiddly stuff though...
I'm using just normal masking tape that you buy from WHSmith; that's all I can afford and get easily so it will have to do.

-Peter
 

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I'm using just normal masking tape that you buy from WHSmith; that's all I can afford and get easily so it will have to do.

-Peter
Is that modelling masking tape? The decent model stuff like this:

8770E945-7113-4001-B471-02DF700EFBCD.jpeg

Has a nice soft tacky quality to it that’s easy to get into details like door lines etc.
I’ve had it for ages but I don’t think it cost much.
 

Peter C

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Is that modelling masking tape? The decent model stuff like this:

View attachment 61808

Has a nice soft tacky quality to it that’s easy to get into details like door lines etc.
I’ve had it for ages but I don’t think it cost much.
No... It's not that. It looks like this:
full


(It took forever to get this image here. :))
-Peter
 

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No... It's not that. It looks like this:
full


(It took forever to get this image here. :))
-Peter
I don’t seem to be getting an image Peter.
If you go down to ‘Upload a file’ and click on it it’ll give you the option to upload a photo from your picture library.
I always use my phone as it’s quite easy.
 

Peter C

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Turns out I missed the obvious "Upload a File" button. Well done me. Here it is! :)

-Peter 20190420_163048.jpg
 

Peter C

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I don’t seem to be getting an image Peter.
If you go down to ‘Upload a file’ and click on it it’ll give you the option to upload a photo from your picture library.
I always use my phone as it’s quite easy.
Done!

-Peter
 

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I just found this online for £1.48...
159AA60E-5C39-46F8-994C-3445328D5FE1.png

Have you got a model shop nearby?
Because I paint houses for a living I know what a struggle it can be using poor tape (not that I can’t paint in a straight line of course :lol:).
 

Peter C

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I just found this online for £1.48...
View attachment 61816

Have you got a model shop nearby?
Because I paint houses for a living I know what a struggle it can be using poor tape (not that I can’t paint in a straight line of course :lol:).
Yes - I do have a model shop nearby. However, they don't stock tape (to my knowledge). This may sound silly, but I can't even afford the £1.48 as I'm buying something for Train Simulator and have just bought two 00 gauge double-track tunnel mouths for £6 each (looking back on it, that is almost certainly a rip-off for a small piece of plastic!)
-Peter
 

Cowley

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Yes - I do have a model shop nearby. However, they don't stock tape (to my knowledge). This may sound silly, but I can't even afford the £1.48 as I'm buying something for Train Simulator and have just bought two 00 gauge double-track tunnel mouths for £6 each (looking back on it, that is almost certainly a rip-off for a small piece of plastic!)
-Peter
:lol: I’m currently making an N gauge three arch bridge from scratch. Even that seems to have cost a fair bit of money with the various types of plasticard, paint, balsa, wood etc.
Satisfying though...
 

Peter C

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:lol: I’m currently making an N gauge three arch bridge from scratch. Even that seems to have cost a fair bit of money with the various types of plasticard, paint, balsa, wood etc.
Satisfying though...
Yes; everything in modelling seems to cost 1,000x more than it should. But it is also satisfying when you finish something! :)

-Peter
 

Peter C

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I have managed to get to a point where I am happy with the look of the paintwork. It is not perfect, but I'm not a perfectionist. It will do what I want it to do.
Having watched a video from New Junction where he applied new LNER transfers, I was wondering whether I should apply my gloss varnish and then the transfers, or the other way round. Any help appreciated.

-Peter
 

Peter C

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Update: Engine fully painted. Transfers applied. Gloss varnish applied to protect transfers. Now I am just waiting for the varnish to dry and then the engine will be replaced on its chassis for the first time in just over a week!

Thanks for giving me some advice and showing interest in this project. :)

-Peter

EDIT: Due to the way in which the Lima Class 50 was made, I have not applied the GBRf logo on the front of the engine. This logo would normally have been applied by removing a pipe from the front, adding the logo, and replacing the pipe, but the pipe is part of the moulding on my model so I can't do this.
 

cactustwirly

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Update: Engine fully painted. Transfers applied. Gloss varnish applied to protect transfers. Now I am just waiting for the varnish to dry and then the engine will be replaced on its chassis for the first time in just over a week!

Thanks for giving me some advice and showing interest in this project. :)

-Peter

Do you have any pictures of the progress?
 

Peter C

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Do you have any pictures of the progress?
Yes. However, my phone and laptop are currently not co-operating with me, so I can only post a photo of the original livery at the moment:
Lima Class 50 50013 Agincourt (c)Hattons.jpg
This image is (c)Hatton's and shows Class 50 50013 "Agincourt" in BR livery.

-Peter
 

Peter C

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Here is the finished product. Apologies if the photos are of poor quality.
This project was done using a copy of Model Rail magazine and a tight budget.
I have chosen to show the Class 50 as it was when it was unveiled. The GBRf LOGO on the opposite side needs redoing.



-Peter
20190421_182545.jpg
 

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Cowley

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Here is the finished product. Apologies if the photos are of poor quality.
This project was done using a copy of Model Rail magazine and a tight budget.
I have chosen to show the Class 50 as it was when it was unveiled. The GBRf LOGO on the opposite side needs redoing.



-Peter
View attachment 61877
Thanks for posting these.
It’s not easy repainting a locomotive, I can see where you’ve had trouble with the paint leaching through the masking tape here and there (and as you said the transfer needs redoing on the cabside), but at least you’ve had a go, and with a cheapy Lima model off eBay - not too much money invested either.
Each time you try something new you learn from your mistakes, and it’s better to have a go than never to attempt anything.
Pretty good for a first go at trying something like this Peter.
What’s the next project? ;)
 

Peter C

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Thanks for posting these.
It’s not easy repainting a locomotive, I can see where you’ve had trouble with the paint leaching through the masking tape here and there (and as you said the transfer needs redoing on the cabside), but at least you’ve had a go, and with a cheapy Lima model off eBay - not too much money invested either.
Each time you try something new you learn from your mistakes, and it’s better to have a go than never to attempt anything.
Pretty good for a first go at trying something like this Peter.
What’s the next project? ;)
Thank you very much. It's encouraging to hear that as it is my first attempt.
I do actually plan to repaint an old Triang Class 37 at some point, but I'll need to do a lot more research into the liveries I could do before I start painting. ;)

-Peter
 
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