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Do Halfords do safety checks?

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heart-of-wessex

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Hello all,

I haven't got any answers so thought I'd ask here, but has anyone gone to Halfords for a bike safety check? I see they do it if you buy a bike from them, but as mine is bought on Sports Direct and will put it together myself, I want to walk it up to Halfords for a once over safety check, so is no a bike purchased through them.

Apparently they did free checks just to make sure it doesn't fall apart irrelevant to weather it was bought there or not, but I don't know if they maybe charge through the roof for it. I don't want to walk all the way to find out it's £30 per bike or something


Cheers,

James.
 
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causton

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"Even when bought online, you reserve and collect your bike built from your local store, or have it delivered to your home boxed, and book in a convenient time at your local store to have it built (just call to book the service take along proof of purchase)."

That is the closest I can find to anything relevant on their website - for BUILDING the bike they will require proof you bought it from Halfords.
They mention that they do have the inspections available but only in conjunction with building it seems... best to get in touch with your local store.
 

seagull

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Two or three years ago they were charging about £15-£20 for a safety check on a bike not built by them, if I recall correctly, from my nearest store.

But I don't know whether a) they still offer the service and b) the price is still the same (unlikely).
 

HST Power

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Well according to the adverts that used to appear on Dave before TG, 'every new bike from Halfords gets a complete safety check. You'll be gone in no time!'
If you got it from them, they should do it for free.
 

Dai.

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I wouldn't trust them, you're much safer going to a local small cycle dealer.

I've had trouble with Halfords, with their "safety checks" not fully checking the bike.
 

rail-britain

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you're much safer going to a local small cycle dealer
I would agree with that, or find a local club
Providing you follow the instructions included with the bicycle and double check each stage you won't have any problems

If the shop doesn't charge for the safety check, I would purchase goods up to at least £30
Front and especially rear lights would be recommended, probably not needed now but will be during dark evenings and nights later in the year
 

Dai.

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I would agree with that, or find a local club
Providing you follow the instructions included with the bicycle and double check each stage you won't have any problems

If the shop doesn't charge for the safety check, I would purchase goods up to at least £30
Front and especially rear lights would be recommended, probably not needed now but will be during dark evenings and nights later in the year


Of course, lights are hugely important. A puncture repair kit, although a spare inner tube is easier! A small pump I carry with me, a small multi-tool and tyre levers.
 
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Avoid Halfords.

Worst bikes I've ever ridden in my life.
Charge a fortune for repairs. And take a lifetime as well.

Best bet is your local reputable bike shop. Price will be about £20-£30.
 

yorkie

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I would not trust Halfords.

Back in 2007 my bike (which is actually at Sheffield station still - I need to pick it up soon) was 'repaired' by them, but started falling apart while I was riding it. I was recommended a decent cycle shop, and I've not looked back since.

Since then that bike has seen infrequent use, although it's still in reasonable condition. It's last 'allocated working' was from Hadfield to Penistone on 18th April, although I didn't ride it. I have bought 2 bikes since then (I don't have a car), I won't give too much away but one is a mountain bike and the other is a road bike. My mountain bike is out of action for a few more days awaiting a minor repair (at a decent shop; not Halfords) so my road bike was allocated a Chinley to Manchester working yesterday along the canal (which would probably more suit the mountain bike in places). My mountain bike is allocated for the 100+ mile trip from Aberdeen to Fraserburgh/Peterhead next month! ;) Anyone who is keen on exploring disused lines is welcome to join us on one of our many trips, such as the Monsal Trail through the re-opened tunnels next month. (and I could probably lend someone a bike if someone requires one!)

I would ask people which shop is best. Many local shops are better than Halfords but I would not trust my local shop; they are absolutely rubbish.
 

heart-of-wessex

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I think a couple on here are confused, I did say in the OP it was from Sports Direct :p so not Halfords, I was just wondering if I could take it up there. It was just a check if I had done it right really, but then if I follow the instructions and tighten everything up hopefully I'll be ok, not forking out £20 at Halford's now!

I look forward to riding down the Bristol - Bath cycle path, I guess there might be more disused lines cycle paths in the western region?
 

Techniquest

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Curious, how much is the bike? I'm getting tempted to get a bike again myself, just wondering if it's a good deal.
 

Zamracene749

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I must be missing something here-

Safety check on a bike for 30 quid!!!

They are almost certainly ripping you off, even if not you can feel more confident knowing you have done it yourself.

Here is a free one:-

Beg or borrow a cheap set of spanners (8 -17mm) and some screwdrivers.

Ensure all bolts and clamps on the bike are tight in particular those holding on the wheels, brake blocks and saddle/stem. Handlebars should be tight and aligned with direction of travel :)

Ensure brake blocks (if fitted) are aligned with rims and not pressing against tyres when applied. Alloy rims in particular should not be badly grooved and worn or kinked as they can become thinned and blow out.

Hydraulic brakes will be ok as long as the pads are not worn out and there are no leaks.

Check for fraying of brake and gear cables, normally around the pinch bolts and the actuating levers. Lubricate same and tighten up if needed.

Tyres should have at least a bit of tread left on them!

Lubricate cables, mechs, chain and suspension joints.

Now the only even slightly technical bit-

Ensure that the stop screws are correctly adjusted on your derailleur mechs so that the chain cannot override top and bottom gears front and rear.
If you cannot work out how these work you're probably not safe to use a tin opener never mind ride a bike alone without stabilisers......

Oh and check lights/ bell and reflectors for road use.

Any one with anything to add (particularly re suspension forks since I don't use em)?


HTH
 
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Techniquest

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Weirdly tesco are doing some nice ones, I was looking at one the other day in there. Around £80

http://direct.tesco.com/q/R.208-5266.aspx for example.

Aye, Tesco did some last year that I liked, but I couldn't afford it when I wanted it. I'm tempted I must admit, as I'd like to get into a better state of health than I'm in at the moment. Anyone know what the average time would be to cover 20 and a half miles on a bike?
 

Dai.

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Aye, Tesco did some last year that I liked, but I couldn't afford it when I wanted it. I'm tempted I must admit, as I'd like to get into a better state of health than I'm in at the moment. Anyone know what the average time would be to cover 20 and a half miles on a bike?

About an hour and 15 minutes if you do an average speed of 15mph - but if you're just starting I'd not go that far first of all
 

Techniquest

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Oh aye, I wouldn't do that straight away. I'd wait until I got a bit fitter and then, after a few months, I'd do the trip to/from work. Which is where the 20 and a half miles figure came from. That much there, that much back, job done and a fortune every month saved!
 

Nick W

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Dai said:
Weirdly tesco are doing some nice ones, I was looking at one the other day in there. Around £80

http://direct.tesco.com/q/R.208-5266.aspx for example.

That is an absolutely hideous bike! Don't even think about getting it, even half price. You can something second hand from a decent local bike shop for that price that'll last twice as long and probably let you pedal half the effort.
 

Dai.

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That is an absolutely hideous bike! Don't even think about getting it, even half price. You can something second hand from a decent local bike shop for that price that'll last twice as long and probably let you pedal half the effort.

Octanes are really good in my experience having ridden a few and looked at that one physically. I've never had a problem with them.
 

Nick W

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Octanes are really good in my experience having ridden a few and looked at that one physically. I've never had a problem with them.
Maybe - the point is any bike that looks like that bike is ill-conditioned. It's designed to look flashy at the cheapest price but will never ride well. For the same money you can get a better 2nd hand bike (I tried out one for £90 at the local bike ship) that rides a lot better.

http://southcoastbikes.co.uk/articles.asp?article=NO_BSO
or if you can't be bothered to read all that, this is what you can expect from a bike like that after a few months:
Plastic brake levers and arms (these flex, warp and go out of shape) resulting in brakes that, er, don't brake.
Grip shifters (The gear changers you twist, similar to a motor bike throttle) are the shifter of choice on BSOs, a great invention but a lot more complicated than a standard lever. A gear shifter needs to make thousands of reliable changes and must hold a consistent position if the gear shifting is to work. BSOs use cheap, poorly made versions; they seize or snap at the first sign of trouble.
Badly routed cables, wrong lengths - won't work.
Headsets, bottom brackets, hubs poorly installed, not greased, cross threaded, loose.
Thin, pressed steel derailleurs, warped and bent, unresponsive; won't hold position, let alone shift a chain.
Forks installed back to front.
Handlebars on back to front or upside down.
Loose, loose - saddles, stems, seat posts, handlebars, grips, shifters, everything.
Warped, untrued wheels.
Cheap steel hubs where the axles have collapsed in.
Rust and peeling paint spreading everywhere after just a short time exposed to the elements.
 
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yorkie

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Anyone know what the average time would be to cover 20 and a half miles on a bike?
Oh aye, I wouldn't do that straight away. I'd wait until I got a bit fitter and then, after a few months, I'd do the trip to/from work. Which is where the 20 and a half miles figure came from. That much there, that much back, job done and a fortune every month saved!
So 10 miles each way... hmmm.. the answer is, it depends!

If there is a strong Westerly (ie, heading toward the East) wind, the gradient is downhill heading East, and the surface is good, and you live in the West and work in the East, then ignoring all other factors, you may get to work in 40 minutes (and not feel the slightest bit tired). But coming back could take you nearly two hours (and you'd be knackered).

If there isn't a strong wind, and it's on the flat, then you are probably looking at about an hour and 15 minutes each way, it really does depend on many factors.

Ashbourne to Tutbury & Hatton is just over 12 miles. It's quite hilly at the start, but relatively flat toward the end. On 19th Aug 2009, we (theswissmonkey, Nick W, Paul1609, Eeazypeazy and I) did it in 1 hour 14 mins. 5 days prior to that I did it in 1 hour 5 mins. But 2 weeks ago on 19th April 2011 we (DaveNewcastle, MPLYRCOWSK0304, Nick W, Mojo and I) spent 1 hour 36 mins (though Max would probably like me to point out that he went on ahead and did it in about 1 hour 20 mins).
 

heart-of-wessex

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Well no checks done and it's gone to Bradford-on-Avon and back in one piece, no faults on the test run under 1Z98 and 1Z99 :p

Went down the Kennet and Avon canal, which I see follows the B&H line, might have to ride there in the future! Would come in handy to get to Bath and get to stations to avoid overnighters.

Very epic ride down the canal, could invest in a softer saddle in the future :lol:


Julian - the bike was £69 knocked form £169 on SportsDirect.com and was £3.00 odd for 2 bikes for delivery, very fast too, was sent to the DHL depot at 3AM the next morning (basically under 12 hours anyway) and sent here the next working day i.e today.
It's a Dunlop sports SE mountain bike, front/rear gears, V brakes, front/rear suspension, black and silver livery though you can take it to a shop for the paint frothers :p


Cheers for the advice, what is buying kit like form Halfords instead, or would an independent do better? There is one round the corner from us but prices are very high for a bike and parts other that that I don't know any others around here...but and online shop might do better too...?


James
 

The Informer

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You get exactly what you pay for with a bike like anything else. Pay peanuts and expect crap.
I wouldn't touch any of those death traps from tesco or sports direct.
Its all about the build quality and components and its worth shelling out the bit more for your own and others safety.
And the best person to maintain/check your bike is yourself. If you aint sure.....LEARN!
 

heart-of-wessex

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Is sports direct rubbish? I dunno the seat is like a rock and there's a small issue with gear 1, and that is it so far...

Anyway was on 1K25 and 1K26 :p from Trowbridge - Atworth - Trowbridge (around 14 miles total) today, went like a dream with no problems at all, was a good run :)
 
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