Big trip to the Netherlands - advice appreciated

[J-2739]

Hello everybody,

I am planning to spend ten days away in the Netherlands, arriving by flight on the 15th July from about 17:30 (so leaving on the 24th from 13:45). I am basing myself in a hostel in Utrecht (Dutch rail capital!), but beyond that, I don't really have much of a strict itinerary.

(Just for some context, this is my first solo trip abroad, as well as the first time I will be using the train outside of the UK; I am completely new to this!)

I know I want to spend at least a day in each of the four cities of the Randstad (Amsterdam, Rotterdam, The Hague, Utrecht); I would be interested in exploring their respective public transport systems and looking out for some interesting urban architecture (being an architecture student).

This would then leave me about 4-6 days - depending on how much energy I have left (!) - to branch out to the rest of the country, giving me an excuse to sample some of the iconic trains such as the VIRMs and Koplopers, and visit some interesting places. The question is: what are these interesting places? I know there is the Flevopolder, the culturally-distinct Maastricht, and the vibrant Groningen, but guys! I only have ten days; what do I prioritize, and how could I balance my conflicting interests in transportation and architecture?

Another interest of mine is border-crossing, and would like to spend some time - even if only a few hours - in some of the nearby towns and cities in Germany and Belgium, partially as an excuse to cross the borders by train and observe the differences in terms of transportation, languages, and even the minute such as the road signs! Any recommendations on this front?

This should be a trip to remember - for the right reasons!

Jonathan

 

[bspahh]

I like Delft. Its easy to get to from Rotterdam, and gets you a dose of canals and architecture old and new at a smaller scale than Amsterdam. Breda is also nice.

It could be hot in July. There are lots of open air swimming pools if you need to cool off.

 

[biko]

For border-crossing, Maastricht is the ideal location. Liege and Aachen are easy to go to from there and the environment in this southern part of the country is totally different from the rest. The disadvantage is the distance from Utrecht (about 2 hours each way).

The other border crossings do not have a nice city directly on the other side of the border, except if you count Bad Bentheim as a city. It had a little old centre on a hill but I believe it’s quite far from the station.

I would also visit one of the smaller Hanseatic cities such as Deventer, Zwolle or Zutphen. Each is a railway node in the network

 

[Bemined]

Amersfoort station is closed from the 13th till the 28th of July, trains from Utrecht to Leeuwarden are rerouted via Hilversum and Almere which can be an interesting journey.

I like Delft. Its easy to get to from Rotterdam, and gets you a dose of canals and architecture old and new at a smaller scale than Amsterdam. Breda is also nice.

Unfortunately Delft station is closed as well during this period because of the extension from 2 to 4 tracks. It will reopen the 27th of July with a reduced service until the end of August when it will fully open.

 

[Sir Felix Pole]

Utrecht is my favourite Dutch city having an attractive historic core, cathedral, railway museum and a small light rail system that has been recently extended to the University. Urban planning wise it had a typical 70s disaster - filling in part of the city moat for an urban motorway - but happily this has been recently reversed. It also has the busiest cycle lane in the country.

If funds permit, however, you would see more if you went for a multi-centre stay round the country to avoid having to double back to Utrecht each evening. Dordrecht in the west, Groningen in the north and Maasricht on the south are all good centres full of architectural interest.

 

[philg999]

In the unlikely event you run out of things to do in the Netherlands… one novel little side trip is to head up to Eemshaven and catch the ferry to the German Wadden island of Borkum. (It’s not far - just off the coast but across the border). You can experience what a German seaside resort island is like. The island has its own train line as well. (Not strictly in the Netherlands but maybe that counts as a ‘border town’?)

 

[James H]

Haarlem is an attractive town to visit. The railway station itself has its charms. You may also find the way the old prison has been repurposed as a university / cinema / small business complex interesting.

 

[30907]

The old Zuyder Zee ports such as Hoorn and Enkhuizen are worth a visit (plus the Hoorn-Medemblik preserved line; IIRC you can do a triangular trip involving steamer from Medemblik to Enkhuizen. In the same general area is Alkmaar.

 

[DanielB]

If funds permit, however, you would see more if you went for a multi-centre stay round the country to avoid having to double back to Utrecht each evening. Dordrecht in the west, Groningen in the north and Maasricht on the south are all good centres full of architectural interest.

Utrecht however has the advantage of making a round trip relatively easy (though a little more complicated as Amersfoort is closed), due to the many directions you can travel to. The extremities of the country are further away obviously, but especially for the OP on his first solo trip abroad there is loads to see without needing to travel too far.

Even though it cannot be reached by rail in the period the OP is in the Netherlands I'd still recommend my home town of Amersfoort, with a medieval town centre and the modern Eemplein with interesting architecture just on the other side of the railway line. It's the European City of the Year for a reason
(And with tram and bus via the Utrecht Science Park you'd still easily get there, avoiding the rail replacement bus disaster waiting to happen).

It's a bit far from Utrecht, but a round trip Utrecht - Heerlen - Aachen - Liège - Maastricht - Utrecht is doable in one day, though that would make you miss the rather scenic Heuvellandlijn (Maastricht - Heerlen) through the only part of the Netherlands that isn't flat.

The old Zuyder Zee ports such as Hoorn and Enkhuizen are worth a visit (plus the Hoorn-Medemblik preserved line; IIRC you can do a triangular trip involving steamer from Medemblik to Enkhuizen. In the same general area is Alkmaar.

There's also the option taking a boat from Enkhuizen to Stavoren a few times a day. Once a main route, nowadays mostly a tourist attraction. That boat has even been on the railway map for many years.

 

[J-2739]

I like Delft. Its easy to get to from Rotterdam, and gets you a dose of canals and architecture old and new at a smaller scale than Amsterdam. Breda is also nice.

It could be hot in July. There are lots of open air swimming pools if you need to cool off.

Delft seems like quite a pretty place, and is home to TU Delft, renowned for being one of the best schools in architecture. Maybe worth a trip from Amsterdam, as you say. It also has a very interesting railway station that was rebuilt almost a decade ago underground, freeing the land above, so could be a lesson to learn in good urbanism.

Breda also seems nice from photographs, and a good excuse to try out the High Speed Line and sample the new ICNGs!

For border-crossing, Maastricht is the ideal location. Liege and Aachen are easy to go to from there and the environment in this southern part of the country is totally different from the rest. The disadvantage is the distance from Utrecht (about 2 hours each way).

The other border crossings do not have a nice city directly on the other side of the border, except if you count Bad Bentheim as a city. It had a little old centre on a hill but I believe it’s quite far from the station.

I would also visit one of the smaller Hanseatic cities such as Deventer, Zwolle or Zutphen. Each is a railway node in the network

Maastricht would be a nice retreat, if for the want of hilly topography alone! And as you say, is rather easy to reach to Liege and Aachen from. Given its distance from my hostel, I would probably dedicate a full day to a combined Maastricht-Liege-Aachen voyage, waking up very early in the morning and returning late at night.

The other border-crossings services I was thinking of making was:

• Groningen-Weener (also an excuse to ride a Spurt)
• Roosendaal-Antwerpen-Centraal (just to peek at Centraal station and ride an authentic Belgian train along the way)

These could be pretty heavy on my itinerary, but anything to make it work would make me quite happy!

Yes, Zwolle would be a city I would most likely pass through to reach the north, and a busy spot to take some pictures at the station. Another addition to my itinerary!

Amersfoort station is closed from the 13th till the 28th of July, trains from Utrecht to Leeuwarden are rerouted via Hilversum and Almere which can be an interesting journey.


Unfortunately Delft station is closed as well during this period because of the extension from 2 to 4 tracks. It will reopen the 27th of July with a reduced service until the end of August when it will fully open.

Thanks for the heads up. Amersfoort looks to be quite a busy node on the Dutch network, so I would expect a lot of trains to be diverted. Would the direct link from Utrecht to Groningen also be maintained? Also an excuse to stop on the interesting Flevopolder at Almere, and ride on the Koplopers?

Delft closing was not something I was expecting, however . Guess there will be some replacement buses put in place?

Utrecht is my favourite Dutch city having an attractive historic core, cathedral, railway museum and a small light rail system that has been recently extended to the University. Urban planning wise it had a typical 70s disaster - filling in part of the city moat for an urban motorway - but happily this has been recently reversed. It also has the busiest cycle lane in the country.

If funds permit, however, you would see more if you went for a multi-centre stay round the country to avoid having to double back to Utrecht each evening. Dordrecht in the west, Groningen in the north and Maasricht on the south are all good centres full of architectural interest.

I chose Utrecht for partially for its strategic location in the centre of the Netherlands, as well as the railway museum and the interesting Rietveld Schroderhuis not too far to its east. I'll probably visit these in the last few days, when I become exhausted of long-distance travelling!

I did consider a multi-centre stay, but given it was my first solo trip abroad, I didn't want to overwhelm myself too much with the hustle of moving luggage and items across the country too regularly. I believe this trip will give me the confidence to try this out in the not too distant future!

In the unlikely event you run out of things to do in the Netherlands… one novel little side trip is to head up to Eemshaven and catch the ferry to the German Wadden island of Borkum. You can experience what a German seaside resort looks like. The island has its own train line as well. (Not strictly in the Netherlands but maybe that counts as a ‘border town’?)

That sounds like a lovely idea, quite possibly something to tie in with a trip to the north of the country.

I have never been to the northernmost station in Britain, but I could potentially claim that label in a different country!

Haarlem is an attractive town to visit. The railway station itself has its charms. You may also find the way the old prison has been repurposed as a university / cinema / small business complex interesting.

Oh yes, how could I forget Haarlem, with one of the most impressive station buildings in the country. The re-purposing project sounds like something to be inspired by, so I will go have a read about it.

Sorry! I know I am calling everything interesting, but I genuinely find the Netherlands to be an fascinating country!

 

[DanielB]

• Groningen-Weener (also an excuse to ride a Spurt)

Unfortunately Nieuweschans - Weener is closed until the end of the year for upgrading of the infrastructure prior to the opening of the new bridge crossing the Ems between Weener and Leer.

 

[J-2739]

The old Zuyder Zee ports such as Hoorn and Enkhuizen are worth a visit (plus the Hoorn-Medemblik preserved line; IIRC you can do a triangular trip involving steamer from Medemblik to Enkhuizen. In the same general area is Alkmaar.

These are also very easy to reach from Utrecht Centraal, so it would be rude of me to not at least give it a go. I will also be a proper tourist, and attend the cheese market at Alkmaar and treat myself to some local delicacies.

Utrecht however has the advantage of making a round trip relatively easy (though a little more complicated as Amersfoort is closed), due to the many directions you can travel to. The extremities of the country are further away obviously, but especially for the OP on his first solo trip abroad there is loads to see without needing to travel too far.

Even though it cannot be reached by rail in the period the OP is in the Netherlands I'd still recommend my home town of Amersfoort, with a medieval town centre and the modern Eemplein with interesting architecture just on the other side of the railway line. It's the European City of the Year for a reason
(And with tram and bus via the Utrecht Science Park you'd still easily get there, avoiding the rail replacement bus disaster waiting to happen).

It's a bit far from Utrecht, but a round trip Utrecht - Heerlen - Aachen - Liège - Maastricht - Utrecht is doable in one day, though that would make you miss the rather scenic Heuvellandlijn (Maastricht - Heerlen) through the only part of the Netherlands that isn't flat.


There's also the option taking a boat from Enkhuizen to Stavoren a few times a day. Once a main route, nowadays mostly a tourist attraction. That boat has even been on the railway map for many years.

Yep, you have understood my intentions well! Utrecht is my path of least resistance to exploring as much of this beautiful country as possible. Once I acquire experience from this trip, then I can pursue with more extreme options!

It sounds like the logistics of substituting all the rail services into Amersfoort with buses would be a bit of a challenge, to say the least? Certainly an interesting activity to observe. And Amersfoort sounds like it has enough assets to convince me to brave the crowds and walk around the centre.

The round trip you've set out seems very appealing, allowing me to cross borders, travel on a variety of trains, and peek at very architecturally interesting cities. Three birds with one stone!

Unfortunately Nieuweschans - Weener is closed until the end of the year for upgrading of the infrastructure prior to the opening of the new bridge crossing the Ems between Weener and Leer.

Shame! Oh well, plenty of Spurt opportunities elsewhere!

 

[atillathehunn]

Hello everybody,

I am planning to spend ten days away in the Netherlands, arriving by flight on the 15th July from about 17:30 (so leaving on the 24th from 13:45). I am basing myself in a hostel in Utrecht (Dutch rail capital!), but beyond that, I don't really have much of a strict itinerary.

(Just for some context, this is my first solo trip abroad, as well as the first time I will be using the train outside of the UK; I am completely new to this!)

I know I want to spend at least a day in each of the four cities of the Randstad (Amsterdam, Rotterdam, The Hague, Utrecht); I would be interested in exploring their respective public transport systems and looking out for some interesting urban architecture (being an architecture student).

This would then leave me about 4-6 days - depending on how much energy I have left (!) - to branch out to the rest of the country, giving me an excuse to sample some of the iconic trains such as the VIRMs and Koplopers, and visit some interesting places. The question is: what are these interesting places? I know there is the Flevopolder, the culturally-distinct Maastricht, and the vibrant Groningen, but guys I only have ten days; what do I prioritize, and how could I balance my conflicting interests in transportation and architecture?

Another interest of mine is border-crossing, and would like to spend some time - even if only a few hours - in some of the nearby towns and cities in Germany and Belgium, partially as an excuse to cross the borders by train and observe the differences in terms of transportation, languages, and even the minute such as the road signs! Any recommendations on this front?

This should be a trip to remember - for the right reasons!

Jonathan

Being slightly biased, I recommend Maastricht. As you say, it is rather culturally distinct with a rather Bourgondisch way of life. It's also ideal for border crossing. By the time you will be there, there will be the new three country train operating. You can go from Liege (B) - Maastricht (NL) - Aachen (D) as one service, operated by Arriva. It was due to be in operation now, but the line washed away between Maastricht and Vise.

 

[J-2739]

Being slightly biased, I recommend Maastricht. As you say, it is rather culturally distinct with a rather Bourgondisch way of life. It's also ideal for border crossing. By the time you will be there, there will be the new three country train operating. You can go from Liege (B) - Maastricht (NL) - Aachen (D) as one service, operated by Arriva. It was due to be in operation now, but the line washed away between Maastricht and Vise.

I had to look up the term 'Bourgondisch' and it definitely adds colour to my initial perceptions of the city!

Maastricht is definitely going to be a key destination in my itinerary, and the suggested rail service above is something else to consider!

 

[MarcVD]

First Arriva three countries train in Liège Guillemins station this morning. Photo from Facebook.

 

[Zamracene749]

Leiden. Beautiful place, I was really surprised

 

[dutchflyer]

All those 4 large cities offer daytickets-valid on bustram(metro)-with zones/company, which cost around 6-8€ and can be bought from machines-always at the stations. Does NOT include trains! Sadly we do not have that german/danish ´Verbund´system which includes all. There aremany more offers for daytickets for NOT train (and a very few also with train), all listed on the site of rover.nl (dutch association of transit users).
I studied-long ago-in Utrecht and remember the youth bostel was quite far out of town in a park/rural area. But perhaps a newer one has opened in centre-or its a non-YHA (NJHC here-was also member of that long ago) one.
Yes-the whole line den Haag-Rotterdam will be closed and bus-subst for 2 weeks late july-avoid that as much as can do. I now live along that line (and did grammar school in Delft). The RET (former train, now metro from RET-Rotterdam) line den Haag-Rotterdam (NOT central st-city) remains in use-and will be much more crowded, but NO train passes.
IF you do not have that magic FIP that most british posters seem to-an InterRail 1 country-which is valid in all 3 BeNeLux-for a few days in 1 month might be still a good buy for the longer trips you plan to

 

[eastwestdivide]

Couple of things I’ve enjoyed in NL:
For watching/photographing freight trains on the Betuweroute, I can recommend a wander round from Sliedrecht, a few stops E of Dordrecht.
The big harbour tour all the way out to Europoort from Rotterdam was interesting, but took most of the day (buffet lunch was included).
Rotterdam’s architecture is bonkers in places (in a good way), but there’s equally interesting modern architecture right across NL.
Check the timetables for the shuttle train to the Utrecht rail museum, once an hour to Maliebaan, via some otherwise unused track. I enjoyed the museum.

 

[ricohallo]

I recommend Arnhem. It's station is an architectural masterpiece, Arnhem itself is a pleasant city along the Rhine river, it has the only trolleybus system in the Netherlands and it's close to the German border, so you can easily make a quick visit to Germany, Emmerich is just across the border and perfect for a quick visit. Just keep in mind that the cross border rail line is currently being upgraded so there might be engineering works and replacement buses, check before you go.

Also a short and pretty train ride away is Nijmegen, which is also a nice, historical city to visit. Beautiful views from the rail bridge as the train is about to enter the station.

 

[Bemined]

Thanks for the heads up. Amersfoort looks to be quite a busy node on the Dutch network, so I would expect a lot of trains to be diverted. Would the direct link from Utrecht to Groningen also be maintained? Also an excuse to stop on the interesting Flevopolder at Almere, and ride on the Koplopers?

Domestic trains aren't typically diverted in the Netherlands as the network is quite full making it hard to fit extra trains. So apart from Utrecht - Leeuwarden only the international service Amsterdam - Berlin will be diverted via Zwolle. Utrecht - Groningen is typically replaced by Utrecht - Leeuwarden during these diversions as that fits better in the timetable.

They do often join two services together that would otherwise both terminate at the same station from opposite directions, for example during the Delft closure the IC Den Haag - Eindhoven will be cancelled between Den Haag and Rotterdam where it is joined with the ICD Amsterdam - Rotterdam to form an IC(D) Amsterdam - Eindhoven. Sometimes this is done to accommodate passengers that have to divert, but sometimes just for logistical reasons (fewer reversing trains taking up platform space) like with the IC Den Haag - Leiden - Haarlem - Amsterdam - Woerden - Gouda - Rotterdam on the 13/14th of July.

 

[Belperpete]

Utrecht is my favourite Dutch city having an attractive historic core, cathedral, railway museum and a small light rail system that has been recently extended to the University. Urban planning wise it had a typical 70s disaster - filling in part of the city moat for an urban motorway - but happily this has been recently reversed. It also has the busiest cycle lane in the country.

If funds permit, however, you would see more if you went for a multi-centre stay round the country to avoid having to double back to Utrecht each evening. Dordrecht in the west, Groningen in the north and Maasricht on the south are all good centres full of architectural interest.

And mine.

You can easily spend a whole day in the railway museum. A special train runs to and from the central station right into the museum. And the city centre, with the sunken canal and canal side cafes and flower market, is a delight. I would recommend climbing the Dom tower for the views, and walking around the canal that encircles the city walls - or taking the boat trip. And going to see the Mint, and the nearby windmill and lift bridges. And........

 

[peteb]

Having recently returned from the Netherlands, my advice (as a retired architect) is to seek out those smaller cities. Delft is wonderful and easily accessed from The Hague by tram instead of train, it's easily doable in a few hours and there's an hourly direct IC train to/from Utrecht. The Hague also has some good architecture in the city centre, both modern and historic. If you continued from Delft to Rotterdam you could look round there too before returning to Utrecht. Compared to say France or Germany everywhere seems very close together, and by train plenty of interesting day trips are possible from Utrecht, even though there's some engineering works to contend with.

 

[DanielB]

Compared to say France or Germany everywhere seems very close together

Depends on what you compare with. In the Randstad-area you'll indeed find towns really close together as many of the new neighbourhoods built since the 70s have just filled up the fields between the various towns. (For example the bus from Dordrecht to Rotterdam used to connect villages scattered in a rural area, but nowadays it's almost never leaving the built-up areas).
Public transport-wise that results in interesting situations like the Rotterdam Metro extending into The Hague (and just a 4 km gap between both cities tram networks)

 

[zero]

If you like border crossings you have to go to Baarle, but you can't get there by train. Maybe on a future trip as it might be a bit much for this one being your first.

 

[sprunt]

Eindhoven has a lot of interesting architecture, much of it modern and the Strijp area has some interesting repurposing of redundant industrial buildings.

Hilversum Town Hall is considered architecturally important and influential, but I don't know how much other stuff worth seeing Hilversum has.

And yes, if borders are your thing Baarle is a must.

Really, I don't think I've ever been anywhere in the Netherlands that's been a complete disappointment - some places have more to offer than others obviously, but everywhere seems to have something worth seeing.

 

[J-2739]

All those 4 large cities offer daytickets-valid on bustram(metro)-with zones/company, which cost around 6-8€ and can be bought from machines-always at the stations. Does NOT include trains! Sadly we do not have that german/danish ´Verbund´system which includes all. There aremany more offers for daytickets for NOT train (and a very few also with train), all listed on the site of rover.nl (dutch association of transit users).
I studied-long ago-in Utrecht and remember the youth bostel was quite far out of town in a park/rural area. But perhaps a newer one has opened in centre-or its a non-YHA (NJHC here-was also member of that long ago) one.
Yes-the whole line den Haag-Rotterdam will be closed and bus-subst for 2 weeks late july-avoid that as much as can do. I now live along that line (and did grammar school in Delft). The RET (former train, now metro from RET-Rotterdam) line den Haag-Rotterdam (NOT central st-city) remains in use-and will be much more crowded, but NO train passes.
IF you do not have that magic FIP that most british posters seem to-an InterRail 1 country-which is valid in all 3 BeNeLux-for a few days in 1 month might be still a good buy for the longer trips you plan to

I'm staying in the BUNK Hotel just across the river not too far from the railway station. It is a former church now repurposed for the 'standards of today's travelers and socially engaged locals', whatever that means! Its a capsule-style hostel, so not expecting to get the best rest, but you can't beat it for location!

I am currently working on a rough itinerary, which I will soon post up on this thread. I will then inquire on the final details on ticket prices!

 

[duesselmartin]

a trip to Venlo might also be worth it. The town is very nice but full of German shoppers from the Düsseldorf area as many products are cheaper in the Netherlands compared to Germany. The station has no ticket barrier and an ajacent freight yard.

 

[MisterT]

If you like history in your architecture and transportation, take a look at the 'Nederlands Openlucht museum' in Arnhem. It's a 44 ha park where you can see all kinds of historic buildings and other history from the Netherlands. It includes a fully functional tramway with historic trams as well.

 

[Trainbike46]

Utrecht and 's-Hertogenbosch are really nice, so I would recommend both!

If you want to cross the border, you could consider visiting Antwerp in Belgium, which isn't too far and a nice place. Easy train ride from Rotterdam or Breda

 

[Shaw S Hunter]

Being based in Utrecht you will have Gouda on the doorstep. It's another typical Dutch town with plenty of traditional architecture in the centre. Could easily be fitted in with other trips.