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Buying a house; all advice welcome

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BantamMenace

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Good evening,

I'm a regular reader and semi-regular contributor to the rail elements of this forum but i've never delved into this area before.

I'm in the early stages of making a move towards buying a house and have identified the areas in which i'm interested, i know my budget and i have a mortgage in principle for an amount slightly above what i want to spend.

I'm looking for advise on where to go from here. I'm browsing Rightmove daily and have so far found 2 houses that fit my criteria and have arranged to view one in the coming weeks.

I'm looking for a dated but liveable 3 bedroom house within 30 minutes drive of my employer (on the outskirts of Coventry). I currently rent a very nice furnished apartment in central Leamington but i've already come to terms with the fact i'll have to move away from Leamington if i'm to afford a house of my own.

£180k-£200k is the absolute top of my budget.

Advise i'm after:

- Does anyone have know any areas i should look at or should avoid that meet my criteria above? The two I've seen that fit the bill so far and in Burbage (Hinckley)
- Any dos and don'ts when viewing properties or speaking to estate agents?
- Any ways to save money when fitting new kitchens, new carpets and decorating?
- Any ways to save money when furnishing a house (at the moments I own little to no funiture of my own)?
- I'm keen to add value to the property I end up buying by removing an interior wall that separates the kitchen and dining room, any advise associated with this?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Iskra

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Have you looked at new property's where you could get help to buy and therefore make your money go further? New builds are also guaranteed so if anything goes wrong you get it fixed for free, dated 3-bedroom houses are probably going to need money spending on them, can come with unpleasant surprises and cost far more in utility bills.

I bought my first-house, a new build, last year. Looking like a good decision so far.
 

Peter Mugridge

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1) Get a full survey done - a mortgage valuation survey won't pick up any defects that are not readily visible.

2) Saving money on kitchens - unless you're completely re-arranging it, you can probably just unscrew the cupboard doors and fit new ones to your taste. Most kitchen stuff is standard in dimensions.

3) Furnishing on a budget: The Princess Alice Hospice has a number of large charity shops specifically for secondhand furniture; it's all good quality stuff and soft furnishings are properly certified etc. Can be very good value - about 3 years or so ago I got a dining room table and chairs through them for about £125 when an equivalent brand new product of similar quality would have been in the region of £1,500.

4) Decorating - do as much as you can yourself, especially painting.

5) Don't touch the interior wall until a properly qualified surveyor has looked at it - it might be holding the upstairs up! Assuming the professional does OK the idea of knocking the rooms through - that's one thing you will definitely have to use a reputable professional firm of builders for.




Edited because I got my charity shop names completely mixed up first time...
 
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Bevan Price

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Make sure you get a professional survey before purchasing. They should locate any problems with the house (or land) that could lumber you with expensive repair bills.

Also get a search about possible developments that could affect the value of the house - new road schemes, building of nearby industrial units, etc.

Don't do any internal structural work yourself unless you are a trained, competent builder - and try to avoid cheap "cowboy" traders. If possible, ask the neighbours if they can recommend local tradespeople.

Unless you are a competent plumber, employ a professional to do any work involving water (kitchens, bathrooms, central heating, etc.) - an internal flood will be expensive.

Internal painting can be a DIY job, as can ground floor external painting. Don't try painting the upper level exterior unless you have a head for heights.

Don't rush the carpets & furnishing - proceed one room at a time as/when you can afford. Closely inspect any 2nd hand furniture before buying; if it is old, look for signs of woodworm or rot.
 

BantamMenace

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Just to thank for and address a few of the points already made.

I did consider new build but I intend to stay in this house 2 or 3 years max before buying with my partner when the budget would likely be nearer double. I've heard that new builds are harder to sell on because why would someone buy nearly new when they can buy new.

Furnishing I was take advantage of charity shops and outlet type retailers. Decorating I'll do myself with the help of family.

Removing an interior wall and making good (leaving a surface to be decorated), what sort of price should I anticipate for this sort of work?

I intend to do get a full survey before purchasing, is this something I should do before or after having a bid accepted? How much below the published asking price should I consider bidding for as an opening bid?
 

Domh245

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I intend to do get a full survey before purchasing, is this something I should do before or after having a bid accepted? How much below the published asking price should I consider bidding for as an opening bid?

I would think that it's probably worth doing beforehand, so that you can adjust your bid according to any unnoticed defects that it may bring up.
 

cjp

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Make any offer subject to survey and use any problems found (and there will be some) as a negotiating tool.
Surveyors will charge extra to check drains and wiring as they call people in to assist.

How old are the houses you are considering - what state are the electrics - are there sufficient sockets etc for modern day living.
 

BantamMenace

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Make any offer subject to survey and use any problems found (and there will be some) as a negotiating tool.
Surveyors will charge extra to check drains and wiring as they call people in to assist.

How old are the houses you are considering - what state are the electrics - are there sufficient sockets etc for modern day living.

From information found online, which isn’t definitive, I think the house I’m considering was built in 1951/52, it was sold to the current seller in 1998 and at a guess the current current kitchen and bathroom are 15-20 years old.
 

Cowley

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Just to add to the above good advice Bantom, I’ve owned various properties and also rented places out, as well as being a painter and decorator, so I’m very much in the trade.
Be aware that new kitchens/bathrooms etc can swallow money if you’re not doing the work yourself.
If you do have the capability of doing the practical work yourself (to a decent professional standard), then you can save yourself thousands of pounds.
If not, then don’t buy yourself ‘a project’. It just isn’t worth it - Let someone else spend the money and time while you enjoy the rewards.
Sometimes I’ll see houses for sale that are beautiful and have lovely bathrooms and kitchens that the owners have fitted, yet they’re only £10,000 more than some complete dog of a house that needs getting on for £30k spending on it...
If your hobby is DIY then buy something that needs lots of work, but if it isn’t then buy something that’s decent to start with (even though it may cost a little more) and enjoy going home of an evening and relaxing with a nice cold beer.
Remember - painting is the straightforward bit (although obviously you’ll never do it as good as me ;)).
The rest of it can be very expensive unless you know people in the trade.
Good luck sir :smile:.
 

cjp

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Ask the seller or the agent if has been rewired otherwise you have 60 year old wiring and, whilst possible safe, regulation and safety requirements have changed and are now more rigorous (particularly now that plastic piping is widely used by all water companies) and standards keep on changing with the 18th Edition of wiring regulations due out later this year. If they answer no consider asking them to let you have the wiring tested before you exchange contracts.
 

Cowley

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Ask the seller or the agent if has been rewired otherwise you have 60 year old wiring and, whilst possible safe, regulation and safety requirements have changed and are now more rigorous (particularly now that plastic piping is widely used by all water companies) and standards keep on changing with the 18th Edition of wiring regulations due out later this year. If they answer no consider asking them to let you have the wiring tested before you exchange contracts.
Again good advice,
 

Tetchytyke

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In terms of how much you should offer, a starting point would be looking at the Land Registry purchase price data for the area: http://landregistry.data.gov.uk/app/ppd/

You'll know to adjust up or down based on the exact circumstances of the house you're buying. I've just bought a repo (sold through agent, not auction) and wouldn't have gone anywhere near the usual prices for my area. Don't buy a dog of a house unless the cost of the remedial work will be less than the discount. In most cases it won't be. If you don't know people (like me, I don't know anyone in the trade), professional tradespeople are pricy. That's fine if you expect it, but there's no point saving £20k on the purchase price if the remedial work will cost you £30k.
 

pemma

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That's fine if you expect it, but there's no point saving £20k on the purchase price if the remedial work will cost you £30k.

Even if the cost of remedial work is similar to the saving I'd question whether it's worth the inconvenience, even if you have more flexibility of how it will look afterwards.
 

thejuggler

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After location, location, location the number one issue for me would be broadband availability. There are still areas with very poor coverage.

Visit the area at different times of day, including around both rush hours and at weekends to get a feel for the street.

If you drive do the commute and see if there are any serious bottlenecks you need to avoid.

Get a proper survey and act on the caveats - general surveyors are like GPs - they know a lot about general house problems, but they are not experts in all aspects. If there are comments about electric and heating installations do not trust the agent or any vendor reports - get your own sparky and gas engineer out to have a look. A survey is to generally to highlight any show stoppers or anything which will need attention in the short term. A 60 year old house may for example be needing a new roof. Get into the loft, the surveyor won't go further than to get head and shoulders through the hatch. Speak to the surveyor about his knowledge of the type of property - they should work in the local area so will have surveyed similar houses plenty of times, they may know if inherent construction defects to be aware of.

If damp is identified do not use a damproof company to assess for free. Pay an independent damp surveyor to identify the damp and suggest a solution, not a company who make money from 'fixing' the problem.

Do not share any financial information (bank statements etc) with the agent on the premise of them needing the details to ensure you have funds - remember they are acting for the seller, knowing your cash status is valuable. Just tell them you are in a position to proceed. Fund checking is done by solicitors.

Carpets - look for roll ends at independent stores. Tell them you want a whole house doing and ask for discounts. Choose cheap carpets for areas you won't be using much, choose better for high traffic areas.

Furnishing - friends, family, ebay, gumtree, numerous charities have furniture stores, local house clearance auctions can be a good source, its not all Antiques Roadshow! You will pick up tables and chairs for peanuts.

Don't skimp on your bed - you spend a third of your life in it, so spend decent money.

Removing walls looks a good idea, but its expensive and can be very involved depending where services run - for 2-3 years it may not be worth the hassle.

Never spend more than 10% of house value on a kitchen. You should aim to do it for 2.5-5%.

Decorating is one job where I apply the maxim - "it is the duty of the wealthy man to employ the services of the artisan"! I do the prep, I then pay someone to do the decorating - always money well spent.
 

DarloRich

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I'm looking for advise on where to go from here.

I have some experience of this stuff from both sides of the fence so:

Agents/Viewing/Survey
  • The important thing to note is that agents are shysters. Trust nothing they say and questions everything.
  • Use several agents. Don't put all your eggs in one basket.
  • Check and double check the tenure of the property ( leasehold or freehold) there have been leasehold houses sold by developers in recent years (and press reports recently about ground rent) which is very naughty in my book.
  • When viewing take as long as you like. Agents want you in and out.
  • Take a note book and jot things down. Look carefully. Note anything you are unsure about.
  • Take pictures of anything interesting you ( good or bad) as it will really help with recall later.
  • Things to look at: Walls, roofs, doors and windows ( check quality with naked eye), electrics / plumbing ( age, style, materials - ask when last changed) Extensions ( ask for confirmation the building regs and planning permission were obtained) internal changes ( same again). Drives/rear access lanes, any complaints/ issues with neighbours, test hte floors as you walk. look for springy boards., check the attic. Record it all and tell your solicitor.
  • If you agree to buy and fixtures and fittings tell your solicitor so they can be checked against the fixtures and fittings form issued by the seller.
  • Check the area out at different times.
  • Talk to neighbours. They will point out the BS in no time.
  • Check out things like broadband services in the area. It is becoming more important to buyers.
  • Get a survey done. There are three types.: Valuation, home owners report & full structural survey. Use the information above to decide which of type 2 or 3 you want. You must decide. I went for option 2 - homebuyers report - as i knew the entire house needed gutting but would have gone for a full survey if i wasn't comfortable with my risk and experienced. ( the state of my house can be seen in my Flickr link)
  • READ the survey report and act on the advice. Surveys are great but cautious and not experts on everything. Sometimes you can take view on their advice but for a first timer follow what they say.
  • Pump the agents for info. How many viewings, any offers, any chain, how long on the market, are the sellers are divorcing, is it a deceased estate (I suggest tact here but these issues can elongate the process)
  • Go back for a chat after exchange and don't forget the obvious questions when you get near completion: stop cock, bin day, meters, bolier, thermostat, cooker instructions, where should I send post on to etc.
  • The house should be presentable, clean and clear of stuff but you may have to clean on arrival as other people might not have your standards

Solicitors

  • DONT ( I can not stress this enough) be tempted with the agents or builders suggestion. Get your own. The service will be better as will the price.
  • Ask friends and family to recommend and get a local firm. They know the market, the area and the players. Get quotes. See if you can sting a free Will out of them. You are a property owner now, these things are important ( trust me!)
  • The legal ombudsman do a useful guide ( http://www.legalombudsman.org.uk/downloads/documents/publications/Ten-helpful-tips-conveyancing.pdf )
  • Check what you will have to pay if the whole things falls apart.
  • Ride your solicitors. Badger them. Keep on the phone asking for updates.
  • Listen to them. They know the score. I know from the outside all you want is the house but they are there to protect you.
  • Ask them about the searches they want to do. Ask for copies. They must do a Local Authority (CON29 / LLC1), drainage, Local charges & land registry. They may well do an environmental/flood search, a chancel repair liability check ( arcane but ruinous if found) , common land search and others.
  • Dont forget the extras: Stamp Duty ( SDLT). as a first time buyer you are 0% to 300k) Land Registry fees £200 Searches ( vary by area). There are then lots of extras like trasnfer fees and ID checks that many solicitors now charge.
  • Deeds don't exist ( unless like my house it is unregistered when you buy)
  • If you buy a flat make sure you understand the lease and the charges. Ask the solicitor to explain them. Leasehold managing agents are bigger shysters than estate agents!

Mortgage

  • I would always suggest seeing an IFA to help you get the best deal if your credit record is less than perfect. My credit risk was poor due to losing my job and almost going bankrupt. I paid an IFA to find me a mortgage as i couldn't get finance form anywhere. He managed to find me a loan vastly over rate but the only game in town.
  • Only use an IFA and always ask the adviser to confirm, episodically those working for an agent or developer.
  • Make doubly sure your figures are accurate and you have enough cash to make up the difference between mortgage value and purchase price AND pay all the bills or you wont complete.
  • Don't forget the hidden mortgages fees ( like the arrangement fee) come out of your pocket.
  • Don't take more money than you need. That sounds obvious but people put themselves in trouble fromday 1 by doing this. If the house needs work save up and do as much as you can yourself.
  • Get a mortgage in principle agreed asap. it helps keep the agents sweet.
  • Look at help to buy. i am not a fan but it seems to attract lots of people. I worry about the payback timescales.
  • If you’re a first-time buyer aged 18 to 39, you could get up to £32,000 from the Government by opening a new Lifetime ISA, which launched in April 2017. Look into it.
  • Look at life insurance. Don't just take any offered by the mortgage company (i don't have this and should sort that out!)

Timescale

  • This can be long winded especially if a chain is involved and you get an old school solicitor somewhere. Be prepared. Things go slowly.
  • be prepared for what seem like minor issues to the lay person to hold up the process. It might be a missing FENSA certificate for the windows or a missing electrical test certificate. The solicitor wont move until these sort of things are sorted out
  • Any dates you get are tentative at best until contracts are exchanged. Don't hang your hat on them.
  • Once exchanged make sure you complete. You cant move in a day early or move out a day late. You can only complete on a week day and it must take place between 9 & 5. Everyone must move on the same day ( pressure off a bit as a FTB but be aware)
  • This could take months. Be ready. Stay calm.

Bidding
  • Know your limits!
  • Don't be pressurised into anything. If it doesn't feel right back off.
  • Asses the market but always go low.
  • When that is rejected use your survey report as a tool.
  • Remember NOTHING is agreed until contracts are exchanged. Have a fall back plan
  • Remember it is only a house. There are others. Be prepared to walk away. Agents work on the fact people wont and use that to drive up the price.

Internal work
  • Do what you can yourself. My house needed a complete internal rebuoild. I did ( with help) everything i could including hacking plaster off back to brick, half demolishing the outhouse, stripping all carpets and decorative finishes, smashing out the kitchen and bathroom etc. It all saves you money
  • For stuff you cant do ask around for recommendations and go with good people.
  • live with what you can and go room by room as cas hallows
  • Get several quotes
  • If it doesn't smell right don't go for it - aka turn on your cowboy detector
  • Know your budget and project manage. Hard. You are the boss. However be prepared to cut scope as the job progresses. Things don't go to plan (I am looking at you chimney breast!) Know what you wont/cant give up. Know what you could cut and live with.

best of luck!

PS My biggest tip from painful & bitter personal experience. AVOID WOOD CHIP. AVOID IT. JESUS H CHRIST AVOID WOOD CHIP. If you cant follow that advice get some of the spray on solution, a steamer and a paper tiger scoring tool and lots of elbow grease. ( see my flickr ;) ) I think Cowley pointed me in this direction and it is the best solution i found.
 

BantamMenace

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Thanks for all the advice so far everybody.

Next Thursday i'm going to see the house that is my preferred choice now.

Can anyone provide examples of costs they've paid/had quoted for removing internal walls, full new kitchens including appliances and fully re-carpeting a 3 bed house please?

Does anyone also have any experience of what is and isnt included in the cost of a new kitchen?
- I'd like it to include all appliances, sockets on the wall, new floorings and wall/ceiling surfaces left plastered ready for decorating.
- It'd probably be an L shape along two walls, fridge freezer I could live without it being built-in/intergrated.


I'm overwhelmed at the amount of advice provided here and I can't thank you all enough. I think i'll keep reporting back with the progress i'm making over the coming months in the hope I can continue to glean all the terrific hints, tips and suggestions from you all.
 

Bletchleyite

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Life insurance is only needed if (a) your mortgage company insists on it (they may not, mine doesn't), or (b) you have dependents. Neither applies to me, so I'm not wasting my money on it (particularly as, being a climber, it might be priced a little higher than for others). If I die, the mortgage company repossesses. Not my problem, as I'm dead then.
 

Tetchytyke

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Does anyone also have any experience of what is and isnt included in the cost of a new kitchen?
- I'd like it to include all appliances, sockets on the wall, new floorings and wall/ceiling surfaces left plastered ready for decorating.
- It'd probably be an L shape along two walls, fridge freezer I could live without it being built-in/intergrated.

As much or as little as you want can be included.

We're in the process of getting a new kitchen through Wickes. It includes single oven, hob, dishwasher, hood and cupboards, in a 3m x 3m L-shape. Total price to Wickes including fitting is about £7000, with about another £1000 for "additionals" such as new plug sockets, tiling, etc. We're expecting it to come in about eight grand in total, maybe slightly over. We know it'd have been a fair bit cheaper if we had a tame friendly joiner to call in, but we don't, so have gone for the easy option of letting them worry about it. I've used Wickes before and they were good.

I'll let you know at the end of March if it's a bad idea...
 

DarloRich

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Life insurance is only needed if (a) your mortgage company insists on it (they may not, mine doesn't), or (b) you have dependents. Neither applies to me, so I'm not wasting my money on it (particularly as, being a climber, it might be priced a little higher than for others). If I die, the mortgage company repossesses. Not my problem, as I'm dead then.

indeed - but the position you set out is slightly blasé. It will be a right PITA for your estate to deal with especially if you leave a shortfall on your mortgage redemption. Please make sure you have a Will at least!

Thanks for all the advice so far everybody.

Next Thursday i'm going to see the house that is my preferred choice now.

Can anyone provide examples of costs they've paid/had quoted for removing internal walls, full new kitchens including appliances and fully re-carpeting a 3 bed house please?

Does anyone also have any experience of what is and isnt included in the cost of a new kitchen?
- I'd like it to include all appliances, sockets on the wall, new floorings and wall/ceiling surfaces left plastered ready for decorating.
- It'd probably be an L shape along two walls, fridge freezer I could live without it being built-in/intergrated.


I'm overwhelmed at the amount of advice provided here and I can't thank you all enough. I think i'll keep reporting back with the progress i'm making over the coming months in the hope I can continue to glean all the terrific hints, tips and suggestions from you all.

I am not telling you how much I spent. The boss might be watching - It was a lot! ;) I got one building company to do everything. I had:
  • new plumbing
  • new boiler
  • new electrics
  • entirely new kitchen
  • small extension into the out house
  • one new window
  • moved the back door
  • new front door
  • two new bath rooms
  • under stairs toilet removed along with all plumbing
  • 4 x fire places blocked up
  • chimney breast removed and structural steels inserted.
  • partial chimney stack removed and structural steels inserted
  • damp proof inserted
  • pointing and brick replacement
  • plastering every room
  • new ceilings in several rooms
  • new floor in kitchen
  • new internal doors
  • gas system overhauled - old fires removed and system capped off.
  • carpets throughout.
  • new radiators throughout
  • new switches, plugs and drainage for appliances

I think that is about it!

I painted and furnished the place. I have all the rooms done except the back room and a few bits i the front bedroom. It has taken me 2 years so far.
 

Busaholic

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From personal experience as executor of a will, use a solicitor and not a 'conveyancing service' for the legal work. My late brother-in-law's use of a cheaper conveyancer cost my sister many sleepless nights and her and me in a lot of expensive rigmarole trying to obtain redress after his sudden death.
 

Bletchleyite

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indeed - but the position you set out is slightly blasé. It will be a right PITA for your estate to deal with especially if you leave a shortfall on your mortgage redemption. Please make sure you have a Will at least!

I do need to do that, yes, though more because I have a fair bit of equity in the house now (though I'm fine with the default of it all going to my next of kin which as I have no direct dependents would I guess mean my parents (confirmed by gov.uk)). But there is no fundamental problem with it as such even if there is a shortfall; in the UK you don't inherit debt, if the estate is in debt overall it is simply bankrupt, and if I'm dead that really is not my problem, and I doubt many people would shed a tear about a mortgage company or bank losing a bit of money.

(However, the chance of that is minimal - hence why the mortgage company doesn't mind - you can be sure they would want insurance if they thought there was much chance of negative equity!)
 
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Bletchleyite

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I am not telling you how much I spent. The boss might be watching - It was a lot! ;) I got one building company to do everything.

I hate to think what that lot must have cost with labour as well. I've done everything to mine myself except gas work (including a new boiler), the front door and carpets on the stairs and upstairs (because I'm rubbish at that). I reckon we must be well north of £20K, though I haven't kept track of it, which I do regret.

Mind you, it's taken me in the order of 7 years to get most of it done. The lesson was that everything costs more and takes longer than I ever imagined. But I do have a load of new skills.
 

Mojo

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My advice would be to not rely on Rightmove/Zoopla for properties, use them as guides but don’t be disappointed if a house on Rightmove doesn’t exist or sold yonks ago. Estate agents seem to be terrible at updating these websites and many of the houses were advertised months ago; you can filter on these sites (e.g. last added within past 28 days).
 

Peter Mugridge

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Just typing the postcode into Google should bring up the recent property transaction details - usually with Rightmove appearing first ( I guess that means they've paid for the positioning! )

Rightmove should show the dates with the most recent property on top - so in theory you can see how long ago the price was and for which property ( but remember some properties have better features than other apparently identical ones in the same road ).

I haven't looked at Zoopla so I can't comment on that one.
 

Bromley boy

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From personal experience as executor of a will, use a solicitor and not a 'conveyancing service' for the legal work. My late brother-in-law's use of a cheaper conveyancer cost my sister many sleepless nights and her and me in a lot of expensive rigmarole trying to obtain redress after his sudden death.

Sorry to hear that. I can understand your point of view having had a bad experience, but I'm not sure I'd agree with this advice in every case.

Conveyancers can be better/more experienced than general practitioner "high street" solicitors as they do conveyancing day in day out. High street solicitors are of decidedly variable quality, and will almost always be more expensive. Even if you use a solicitor it's highly likely that all the detailed work will be undertaken by paralegals/junior members of staff with the overseeing solicitor merely signing it off.

If it's a complex transaction I'd agree instruct a solicitor and accept you will have to pay more but if it's a straightforward leasehold or freehold purchase a conveyancer should be fine.

Above all try and get a personal recommendation rather than just going with who the agents recommend.
 
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Bromley boy

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I have some experience of this stuff from both sides of the fence so:

Agents/Viewing/Survey
  • The important thing to note is that agents are shysters. Trust nothing they say and questions everything.
  • Use several agents. Don't put all your eggs in one basket.
  • Check and double check the tenure of the property ( leasehold or freehold) there have been leasehold houses sold by developers in recent years (and press reports recently about ground rent) which is very naughty in my book.
  • When viewing take as long as you like. Agents want you in and out.
  • Take a note book and jot things down. Look carefully. Note anything you are unsure about.
  • Take pictures of anything interesting you ( good or bad) as it will really help with recall later.
  • Things to look at: Walls, roofs, doors and windows ( check quality with naked eye), electrics / plumbing ( age, style, materials - ask when last changed) Extensions ( ask for confirmation the building regs and planning permission were obtained) internal changes ( same again). Drives/rear access lanes, any complaints/ issues with neighbours, test hte floors as you walk. look for springy boards., check the attic. Record it all and tell your solicitor.
  • If you agree to buy and fixtures and fittings tell your solicitor so they can be checked against the fixtures and fittings form issued by the seller.
  • Check the area out at different times.
  • Talk to neighbours. They will point out the BS in no time.
  • Check out things like broadband services in the area. It is becoming more important to buyers.
  • Get a survey done. There are three types.: Valuation, home owners report & full structural survey. Use the information above to decide which of type 2 or 3 you want. You must decide. I went for option 2 - homebuyers report - as i knew the entire house needed gutting but would have gone for a full survey if i wasn't comfortable with my risk and experienced. ( the state of my house can be seen in my Flickr link)
  • READ the survey report and act on the advice. Surveys are great but cautious and not experts on everything. Sometimes you can take view on their advice but for a first timer follow what they say.
  • Pump the agents for info. How many viewings, any offers, any chain, how long on the market, are the sellers are divorcing, is it a deceased estate (I suggest tact here but these issues can elongate the process)
  • Go back for a chat after exchange and don't forget the obvious questions when you get near completion: stop cock, bin day, meters, bolier, thermostat, cooker instructions, where should I send post on to etc.
  • The house should be presentable, clean and clear of stuff but you may have to clean on arrival as other people might not have your standards

Solicitors

  • DONT ( I can not stress this enough) be tempted with the agents or builders suggestion. Get your own. The service will be better as will the price.
  • Ask friends and family to recommend and get a local firm. They know the market, the area and the players. Get quotes. See if you can sting a free Will out of them. You are a property owner now, these things are important ( trust me!)
  • The legal ombudsman do a useful guide ( http://www.legalombudsman.org.uk/downloads/documents/publications/Ten-helpful-tips-conveyancing.pdf )
  • Check what you will have to pay if the whole things falls apart.
  • Ride your solicitors. Badger them. Keep on the phone asking for updates.
  • Listen to them. They know the score. I know from the outside all you want is the house but they are there to protect you.
  • Ask them about the searches they want to do. Ask for copies. They must do a Local Authority (CON29 / LLC1), drainage, Local charges & land registry. They may well do an environmental/flood search, a chancel repair liability check ( arcane but ruinous if found) , common land search and others.
  • Dont forget the extras: Stamp Duty ( SDLT). as a first time buyer you are 0% to 300k) Land Registry fees £200 Searches ( vary by area). There are then lots of extras like trasnfer fees and ID checks that many solicitors now charge.
  • Deeds don't exist ( unless like my house it is unregistered when you buy)
  • If you buy a flat make sure you understand the lease and the charges. Ask the solicitor to explain them. Leasehold managing agents are bigger shysters than estate agents!

Mortgage

  • I would always suggest seeing an IFA to help you get the best deal if your credit record is less than perfect. My credit risk was poor due to losing my job and almost going bankrupt. I paid an IFA to find me a mortgage as i couldn't get finance form anywhere. He managed to find me a loan vastly over rate but the only game in town.
  • Only use an IFA and always ask the adviser to confirm, episodically those working for an agent or developer.
  • Make doubly sure your figures are accurate and you have enough cash to make up the difference between mortgage value and purchase price AND pay all the bills or you wont complete.
  • Don't forget the hidden mortgages fees ( like the arrangement fee) come out of your pocket.
  • Don't take more money than you need. That sounds obvious but people put themselves in trouble fromday 1 by doing this. If the house needs work save up and do as much as you can yourself.
  • Get a mortgage in principle agreed asap. it helps keep the agents sweet.
  • Look at help to buy. i am not a fan but it seems to attract lots of people. I worry about the payback timescales.
  • If you’re a first-time buyer aged 18 to 39, you could get up to £32,000 from the Government by opening a new Lifetime ISA, which launched in April 2017. Look into it.
  • Look at life insurance. Don't just take any offered by the mortgage company (i don't have this and should sort that out!)

Timescale

  • This can be long winded especially if a chain is involved and you get an old school solicitor somewhere. Be prepared. Things go slowly.
  • be prepared for what seem like minor issues to the lay person to hold up the process. It might be a missing FENSA certificate for the windows or a missing electrical test certificate. The solicitor wont move until these sort of things are sorted out
  • Any dates you get are tentative at best until contracts are exchanged. Don't hang your hat on them.
  • Once exchanged make sure you complete. You cant move in a day early or move out a day late. You can only complete on a week day and it must take place between 9 & 5. Everyone must move on the same day ( pressure off a bit as a FTB but be aware)
  • This could take months. Be ready. Stay calm.

Bidding
  • Know your limits!
  • Don't be pressurised into anything. If it doesn't feel right back off.
  • Asses the market but always go low.
  • When that is rejected use your survey report as a tool.
  • Remember NOTHING is agreed until contracts are exchanged. Have a fall back plan
  • Remember it is only a house. There are others. Be prepared to walk away. Agents work on the fact people wont and use that to drive up the price.

Internal work
  • Do what you can yourself. My house needed a complete internal rebuoild. I did ( with help) everything i could including hacking plaster off back to brick, half demolishing the outhouse, stripping all carpets and decorative finishes, smashing out the kitchen and bathroom etc. It all saves you money
  • For stuff you cant do ask around for recommendations and go with good people.
  • live with what you can and go room by room as cas hallows
  • Get several quotes
  • If it doesn't smell right don't go for it - aka turn on your cowboy detector
  • Know your budget and project manage. Hard. You are the boss. However be prepared to cut scope as the job progresses. Things don't go to plan (I am looking at you chimney breast!) Know what you wont/cant give up. Know what you could cut and live with.

best of luck!

PS My biggest tip from painful & bitter personal experience. AVOID WOOD CHIP. AVOID IT. JESUS H CHRIST AVOID WOOD CHIP. If you cant follow that advice get some of the spray on solution, a steamer and a paper tiger scoring tool and lots of elbow grease. ( see my flickr ;) ) I think Cowley pointed me in this direction and it is the best solution i found.

Some excellent advice in this post.
 
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