Chisinau to Sofia (via Bucharest)

[rg177]

Hello all,

In October I'll be flying to Chisinau (landing early afternoon on the 12th) then taking the overnight train to Bucharest on the 13th, arriving at 0635 on the 14th. That part all looks fairly simple - with online booking 30 days ahead and the ability to print off/show tickets on a mobile device!

The plan is then to take the 1047 train to Sofia (it looks like it's the last direct one of the season).

I'm not flying back until the evening of the 16th (from Sofia) so I do have a day's contingency in case something goes horribly wrong in between.

I just have a few questions really:

• How is the reliability of the Chisinau-Bucharest service? I essentially have four hours between trains but is it a service that frequently racks up massive delays?
• Is it worth bothering with online booking for the Bucharest-Sofia service? You can, but it still involves collecting tickets from the international window by the looks of it
• How is this international window to deal with? Is much English spoken, are they efficient enough?

If reliability looks shaky (especially seeing as I'll have to faff around with getting a ticket for my connection) I'll probably not book any accommodation in Sofia for the 14th in advance - and just wait and see until the morning I arrive in Bucharest.

Finally, is there much to see/do/eat in Chisinau that people would recommend? I'm aware that it's the least-visited capital in all of Europe, so I don't expect anything too thrilling - but enough to occupy me for a day!

Thanks in advance for any contributions.

 

[nwales58]

On punctuality CFR have real time for yesterday and today, so every morning you could stick 401 into:

My train

Discover the route of CFR Călători's trains, the services available in coaches, the train's marshalling, any discounts or the direction of the branches (a train can separate in multiple directions). In addition, for the current day, you can see information in real time.

bilete.cfrcalatori.ro

6 minutes late this morning (which is a lot better than services from Hungary)

 

[superalbs]

Hello all,

In October I'll be flying to Chisinau (landing early afternoon on the 12th) then taking the overnight train to Bucharest on the 13th, arriving at 0635 on the 14th. That part all looks fairly simple - with online booking 30 days ahead and the ability to print off/show tickets on a mobile device!

The plan is then to take the 1047 train to Sofia (it looks like it's the last direct one of the season).

I'm not flying back until the evening of the 16th (from Sofia) so I do have a day's contingency in case something goes horribly wrong in between.

I just have a few questions really:

• How is the reliability of the Chisinau-Bucharest service? I essentially have four hours between trains but is it a service that frequently racks up massive delays?
• Is it worth bothering with online booking for the Bucharest-Sofia service? You can, but it still involves collecting tickets from the international window by the looks of it
• How is this international window to deal with? Is much English spoken, are they efficient enough?

If reliability looks shaky (especially seeing as I'll have to faff around with getting a ticket for my connection) I'll probably not book any accommodation in Sofia for the 14th in advance - and just wait and see until the morning I arrive in Bucharest.

Finally, is there much to see/do/eat in Chisinau that people would recommend? I'm aware that it's the least-visited capital in all of Europe, so I don't expect anything too thrilling - but enough to occupy me for a day!

Thanks in advance for any contributions.

There are two local train departures in the evening, using some interesting traction if you're interested.

They depart within 10 minutes of each other, so you can't do both in one evening.

One of them is a rare Hungarian-built DMU, the D1, which is in a shocking condition and features wooden benches. You can go to Visternichen station and then walk back to the centre.

The other is even more exciting, with a ChME3 locomotive on one carriage. Catch it to Revaca, then walk east to leave the station, then west along the road and you'll reach a bus stop for the centre.

 

[dutchflyer]

Have done it the other way and then on into Ukrayna at peaceful times-so thats by now quite some yrs ago. For me Moldova was the one but last European country to visit (Byelorus came after as finale). In general trains over there are quite on time-IF delays occur its mostly due to border controls (remember: you will enter the EU, but not the Schengen zone the way you go), it may be that in the last time Ukraynian refugees may make up a large portion of pax. This was stated some time ago on the german DSO-forum-no idea how the actual situation for that is now.
Chisinau: stayed there 2 nights, it has a trolleybus-network (for me by then major reason for a visit) but as I remember it there is really nothing spectacular or even noteworthy, a 13 in the dozen communist minor town. Of course you can find enough eating places, the usual pizza/kebab/fries, but they wont be much geared to visitors from the capitalist west.
Also: now that I write this remember that at that time one had to pay a few € for bedsheets or the like in the sleeper to the conductor for that-I also DK if that still holds. That was common practice in those areas.

 

[Watershed]

I have taken both trains, although not on the same day.

The Chisinau-Bucharest sleeper was pretty much on time as I recall - the schedule is fairly slack. The timings are a lot more sociable in that direction, as you get the gauge change and passport formalities sorted by around 10pm whereas in the other direction these take place in the small hours of the morning.

The coaches are old East German ones, fairly comfortable and in excellent condition considering their age. Opening windows of course, and very affordable even if you go for a compartment to yourself.

Nothing hugely notable in Chisinau - except for how clean and well-maintained the city is, especially by (south)eastern European standards.

The Bucharest-Sofia train, if a through service, is composed of BDZ compartment stock. Not in the best of condition but perfectly serviceable. Apart from the Danube Bridge, the views are rather average until you reach Karlukovo, around 2 hours before Sofia. It then gets increasingly spectacular as you head through gorges and mountainous terrain.

The guard joined us in our compartment for this section when I did the journey earlier this year, pointing out landmarks whilst window hanging - and actively encouraging us to do the same!

As for online booking for this service, I think you would probably be OK buying on the day, but it is a bit of a lottery - I did encounter several sold-out domestic services, for which there appeared to be no workaround (other than boarding and hoping there was a no-show).

Few of the ladies (and it was predominantly ladies) at the domestic windows of the Bucharest ticket office spoke English, so communication was a little tricky. At the international counter the standard of English was a little better but I was similarly just collecting my ticket for the journey to Sofia, so it was a fairly simple request.

Splitting at the Bulgarian border station of Ruse is a little cheaper, but I don't think you can get reservations from Ruse online. Expect to have your passport temporarily taken off you at both border stations!

 

[Richard Scott]

Hello all,

In October I'll be flying to Chisinau (landing early afternoon on the 12th) then taking the overnight train to Bucharest on the 13th, arriving at 0635 on the 14th. That part all looks fairly simple - with online booking 30 days ahead and the ability to print off/show tickets on a mobile device!

The plan is then to take the 1047 train to Sofia (it looks like it's the last direct one of the season).

I'm not flying back until the evening of the 16th (from Sofia) so I do have a day's contingency in case something goes horribly wrong in between.

I just have a few questions really:

• How is the reliability of the Chisinau-Bucharest service? I essentially have four hours between trains but is it a service that frequently racks up massive delays?
• Is it worth bothering with online booking for the Bucharest-Sofia service? You can, but it still involves collecting tickets from the international window by the looks of it
• How is this international window to deal with? Is much English spoken, are they efficient enough?

If reliability looks shaky (especially seeing as I'll have to faff around with getting a ticket for my connection) I'll probably not book any accommodation in Sofia for the 14th in advance - and just wait and see until the morning I arrive in Bucharest.

Finally, is there much to see/do/eat in Chisinau that people would recommend? I'm aware that it's the least-visited capital in all of Europe, so I don't expect anything too thrilling - but enough to occupy me for a day!

Thanks in advance for any contributions.

Did it a week ago and was 30 late, lots of slack so that's about as bad as it gets I think.
Bucharest to Sofia they don't seem to care about reservations, I've booked tickets through CFR International and printed at home so think their own gen is a bit out of date.
Have generally found CFR staff (except 1) very helpful and usually find one who can speak English. Google translate has usually been enough.
Enjoy but be aware the stock used on Bucharest to Sofia is awful!
The Chisinau to Bucharest Train was stinking hot when we did it so be prepared there. Enjoy the gauge changer experience.

 

[rg177]

There are two local train departures in the evening, using some interesting traction if you're interested.

They depart within 10 minutes of each other, so you can't do both in one evening.

One of them is a rare Hungarian-built DMU, the D1, which is in a shocking condition and features wooden benches. You can go to Visternichen station and then walk back to the centre.

The other is even more exciting, with a ChME3 locomotive on one carriage. Catch it to Revaca, then walk east to leave the station, then west along the road and you'll reach a bus stop for the centre.

Thanks for this - my hotel is about a 15-min walk from Visternichen so a short hop on the D1 is probably quite feasible. Revaca looks *possible* but maybe one for another visit!

I have taken both trains, although not on the same day.

The Chisinau-Bucharest sleeper was pretty much on time as I recall - the schedule is fairly slack. The timings are a lot more sociable in that direction, as you get the gauge change and passport formalities sorted by around 10pm whereas in the other direction these take place in the small hours of the morning.

The coaches are old East German ones, fairly comfortable and in excellent condition considering their age. Opening windows of course, and very affordable even if you go for a compartment to yourself.

Nothing hugely notable in Chisinau - except for how clean and well-maintained the city is, especially by (south)eastern European standards.

The Bucharest-Sofia train, if a through service, is composed of BDZ compartment stock. Not in the best of condition but perfectly serviceable. Apart from the Danube Bridge, the views are rather average until you reach Karlukovo, around 2 hours before Sofia. It then gets increasingly spectacular as you head through gorges and mountainous terrain.

The guard joined us in our compartment for this section when I did the journey earlier this year, pointing out landmarks whilst window hanging - and actively encouraging us to do the same!

As for online booking for this service, I think you would probably be OK buying on the day, but it is a bit of a lottery - I did encounter several sold-out domestic services, for which there appeared to be no workaround (other than boarding and hoping there was a no-show).

Few of the ladies (and it was predominantly ladies) at the domestic windows of the Bucharest ticket office spoke English, so communication was a little tricky. At the international counter the standard of English was a little better but I was similarly just collecting my ticket for the journey to Sofia, so it was a fairly simple request.

Splitting at the Bulgarian border station of Ruse is a little cheaper, but I don't think you can get reservations from Ruse online. Expect to have your passport temporarily taken off you at both border stations!

Cheers - yes I remember you discussing the friendly guard on the Bucharest-Sofia service!

Sounds like I should at least be able to prise a ticket out of the international office in Bucharest. I at least managed in Montenegro with some rudimentary Serb/Montenegrin with the chain-smoking elderly ladies who spoke absolutely no English

Did it a week ago and was 30 late, lots of slack so that's about as bad as it gets I think.
Bucharest to Sofia they don't seem to care about reservations, I've booked tickets through CFR International and printed at home so think their own gen is a bit out of date.
Have generally found CFR staff (except 1) very helpful and usually find one who can speak English. Google translate has usually been enough.
Enjoy but be aware the stock used on Bucharest to Sofia is awful!
The Chisinau to Bucharest Train was stinking hot when we did it so be prepared there. Enjoy the gauge changer experience.

Thanks - so sounds like some daft long delay is at least unlikely.

I'd be curious to see at least how you managed to print off a ticket! I've done a dummy booking and the website was plastered with warnings about collecting tickets in Romania only.

 

[Richard Scott]

I'd be curious to see at least how you managed to print off a ticket! I've done a dummy booking and the website was plastered with warnings about collecting tickets in Romania only.

It was just emailed to me! Was for Bucharest to Chisinau and return.

 

[superalbs]

Thanks for this - my hotel is about a 15-min walk from Visternichen so a short hop on the D1 is probably quite feasible. Revaca looks *possible* but maybe one for another visit!

That assumes the train will even exist at that point. Things are pretty bad on Moldovan Railways.

But the D1 is well worth a go, here are some pics of the exterior, interior, and window view...

 

[Richard Scott]

That assumes the train will even exist at that point. Things are pretty bad on Moldovan Railways.

But the D1 is well worth a go, here are some pics of the exterior, interior, and window view...

View attachment 163162
View attachment 163163
View attachment 163164

Both ran last week when I was there.

 

[rg177]

It was just emailed to me! Was for Bucharest to Chisinau and return.

Ah - Bucharest to Chisinau is enabled for this. Bucharest to Sofia isn't (for some reason).

 

[Richard Scott]

Ah - Bucharest to Chisinau is enabled for this. Bucharest to Sofia isn't (for some reason).

Ok, that explains that! If you do have to pick up tickets it does get busy at the ticket windows and Romanians take little notice of which one they're supposed to use!!!

 

[rg177]

Hello all,

Thanks for the advice previously given. I've now secured a single room on the Chisinau-Bucharest Sleeper for £43ish (booked through CFR International) but have settled on continuing through Romania and (eventually) flying back from Budapest.

My plan on arrival is to just book whatever is convenient up to Brasov (I see there's a diagram with a former SNCF RIO set if I arrive on time in Bucharest) where I'll be staying the night. I'll then catch train IR77 to Sibiu (another night) then take IR77 all the way to Budapest the following day.

I don't really know Romania at all outside of Bucharest and Arad - though Sibiu looks to be an interesting place? I'll arrive there at 09:50 and have basically 24 hours to explore.

 

[peteb]

Hello all,

Thanks for the advice previously given. I've now secured a single room on the Chisinau-Bucharest Sleeper for £43ish (booked through CFR International) but have settled on continuing through Romania and (eventually) flying back from Budapest.

My plan on arrival is to just book whatever is convenient up to Brasov (I see there's a diagram with a former SNCF RIO set if I arrive on time in Bucharest) where I'll be staying the night. I'll then catch train IR77 to Sibiu (another night) then take IR77 all the way to Budapest the following day.

I don't really know Romania at all outside of Bucharest and Arad - though Sibiu looks to be an interesting place? I'll arrive there at 09:50 and have basically 24 hours to explore.

Sibiu definitely an interesting old town, very "Germanic" in appearance. Check the departures boards, there appeared to be some interesting short formed loco hauled services last year!

 

[rvdborgt]

Sibiu definitely an interesting old town, very "Germanic" in appearance. Check the departures boards, there appeared to be some interesting short formed loco hauled services last year!

Sibiu still has a German-speaking minority. We happened to stumble upon a German bookshop when we were there and could actually speak German with them, which was very useful because we needed some directions.

 

[Richard Scott]

Hello all,

Thanks for the advice previously given. I've now secured a single room on the Chisinau-Bucharest Sleeper for £43ish (booked through CFR International) but have settled on continuing through Romania and (eventually) flying back from Budapest.

My plan on arrival is to just book whatever is convenient up to Brasov (I see there's a diagram with a former SNCF RIO set if I arrive on time in Bucharest) where I'll be staying the night. I'll then catch train IR77 to Sibiu (another night) then take IR77 all the way to Budapest the following day.

I don't really know Romania at all outside of Bucharest and Arad - though Sibiu looks to be an interesting place? I'll arrive there at 09:50 and have basically 24 hours to explore.

There are a few 60/62 hauled trains out of/into Sibiu during the day. Also a few re-engined 64 turns, let me know if want the diagrams.

 

[rg177]

There are a few 60/62 hauled trains out of/into Sibiu during the day. Also a few re-engined 64 turns, let me know if want the diagrams.

Cheers, I will let you know. IR77 is 60-hauled so I at least won't be deprived!

 

[Richard Scott]

Cheers, I will let you know. IR77 is 60-hauled so I at least won't be deprived!

No problem. That's true.

 

[SandsofEss]

Sibiu is lovely as others have said. I recommend climbing the church tower while you're there - an interesting experience in and of itself, and a good way to get a view of the whole town.

The YouTuber Steve Marsh visited Chişinǎu relatively recently. You might find his video interesting.

 

[nwales58]

(I see there's a diagram with a former SNCF RIO set if I arrive on time in Bucharest)

Did you get a RIO in the end? I only saw X72500 on RC’s services last week but weekends coukd be different.

 

[rg177]

Did you get a RIO in the end? I only saw X72500 on RC’s services last week but weekends coukd be different.

I don't travel for a week and a half - but will update the thread when I do!

 

[TinTin56]

We are interrailing at the moment. Did Budapest to Brasov on the sleeper. On arrival in Brasov booked reservations for Brasov to Bucharest and Bucharest to Sofia at the international ticket window. Lady spoke English but handed her written requirements. She just asked to see Interrail references. All very easy. Bucharest to Sofia is a long day. An hour late. It was dark when we hit what would have been the scenic bits. You have to get off at Sofia Sever and get a shuttle train, due to engineering work.

 

[nwales58]

From recent experience two ways to make Bucharest-Sofia nicer

1) Do not use the through coach 472 (BDZ grot). Sit in CFR coach 482 which goes to Varna, conductors didn’t seem to care where my reservation was. The Ruse-Sofia section has a BDZ first coach, either 9 compartment non A/C or open with A/C, much nicer.

From 14/10 it’s a CFR Desiro north of Ruse until next summer.

2) For shorter days stay split at Veliko Trnovo, spectacular, loads of hotels, if anyone wants bus+cash info ask. South via Dobovo climbs to 3000’, ruling gradient 1 in 40-50 either side of short summit tunnel, economically built including 360 deg circuit of a mountain top to gain height. Branch to Gabrovo is soviet era EMU.

Main route Sofia-Mezdra is alpine valley beautiful too, daylight north/eastbound only now.

Bucurest-Videle condition is scandalous, expect 30+ min delays, single track working and freight congestion stacked everywhere.

 

[rg177]

Thanks both. I think the Bucharest-Sofia leg of this trip will be one for next year now - with no connections off other international services to worry about!

A manager from a previous job was from Veliko Tarnovo - she did always say it (and the surrounding area) was a beautiful place.

 

[nwales58]

I think it’s worth taking time over Bulgaria.

The 3 train 3-way 30’ shunt at Gorna Orjahovice took an hour when the TCDD coach was turned back instead of running to Bucharest

 

[sh24]

Bucharest>Ruse>Gorna Orjahovica>Veliko Tarnovo>Stara Zagora>Plovdiv>Sofia is a great if roundabout routing

 

[MarcVD]

Bucurest-Videle condition is scandalous, expect 30+ min delays, single track working and freight congestion stacked everywhere.

But are the trains from Bucharest to Ruse still going via Videle ? I think I have read somewhere that the bridge that was broken on the direct line to Ruse had finally been repaired...

 

[nwales58]

But are the trains from Bucharest to Ruse still going via Videle ? I think I have read somewhere that the bridge that was broken on the direct line to Ruse had finally been repaired...

International train runs via Videle still. Not just the timetable, I used it twice last week (30 and 90 mins late). The Desiro to Ruse after 14/10 shows as via Videle on CFR.

Direct Giurgiu line has reopened, all national trains use it and terminate at Bucuresti Progresul though possibly run through as the connecting service around the ring to Buc Nord.

Videle-Giurgiu has serious freight congestion but the passenger trains had little delay. The delays are 5-30’ Videle-Bucuresti (1107 Timisoara caught up with 1047 Ruse at Videle one day) then the both border waits are longer than timetabled. Bulgarians use two men to check both trains, passports go away then back, so delays in the two directions are correlated. That might make improve next April.

 

[rg177]

So, just an update - as I'm currently at Ungheni as the gauge change takes place!

Chisinau I found to be so-so. Indeed very clean and some interesting parks/monuments but I think one visit was sufficient. I didn't end up going for either local train in the end (I was very very tired!) but can confirm that at the very least, the loco-hauled service south is operating. It was sat ticking away at the far end of the station earlier.

The sleeper service so far has been fine. Train is very clean and well-kept, even if ride quality is rather diabolical in Moldova. Speeds variable but any attempt at going much above 30mph resulted in some pretty severe lurching Carriage attendant speaks some English and has been pretty amicable - no qualms about showing tickets on a phone. At Ungheni they wander off with your passport while the regauging takes place. A rather fascinating thing to go through - while I've watched the 64 that'll haul us to Iasi come in with its singular CFR carriage. Customs have also done a check which consisted of glancing in my backpack and taking a photo of the compartment. We've started lurching about again as I type this - so I assume we're done with the wheel change and I'll be getting reunited with my passport!

The Kyiv service has also caught up to us and is on the platform at the other side of the (quite impressive) station building.

Edit - the D1 is indeed also running as it's just came into the opposite platform - complete with one broken door and one hell of a racket.

Did you get a RIO in the end? I only saw X72500 on RC’s services last week but weekends coukd be different.

Can confirm that the 0816 off Bucharest Nord is a RIO - fairly lightly loaded.

Rather unusual way of working though - as the loco propelled from the back up to Ploiesti Vest then the driver ran it around the train and it was attached to the front for the onward journey.

Tickets fairly simple - Regio Calatori just issues you a ticket number that the conductor enters into their phone. About £6 one-way.