Going from analogue to DCC

[robertclark125]

For the past 18 months, I've been building a layout in a 6x4 shed, called "Glasgow City". The layout has videos on youtube. But, one continuing issue is the fact that when I built it, I used a lot of track that was about 25 - 30 years old, and hadn't been used for about 15 years. The same could be said for the rolling stock as well.

Recent issues, only noticed after ballasting, have seen me discover a gap in the joins, preventing power to two tracks going to some platforms. In addition, all the locos are analogue, and thus I'm using several power controllers.

Given the fact the baseboards are MDF and weren't sealed before use, and also given the fact the track is old, and perhaps ballasted before it should've been, I've decided to take the plunge, and dismantle the layout, and build a new one, Napier City. But, this time, my plan is to buy new track, and also, importantly, use DCC.

I'm planning to use the same track layout as before, but with a couple of changes. Firstly, instead of a cutting, I'm going to have the track leaving the scene to drop down a level and onto another board, which I can then use to access and change the ends or change the trains. The current plan, of using a cutting, doesn't work at all, as I'm going to be stretching over the layout. The other change would be, if I did that, I could then replace the cutting with a tunnel as a town scene, and it could be a shorter piece of embankment, allowing two sidings in the depot to be longer.

If you go onto youtube, and key in "Glasgow City Station", you'll get the idea of the current track arrangement. I'm also thinking of doing away with the freight yard, and solely having passenger and parcels trains.

So, I need advice on DCC. As it's a small layout, I'm planning on using the cheaper Hornby controller, and not the Elite. Do I need only one power connecting clip? I know I'd need to put clips in the points to make them "live", but for power to the layout, is one clip enough?

I recently bought a new Railroad class 08, 08673, and was wondering, if that or some of my Lima class 37s and 47s could be fitted with DCC decoders?

As regards the baseboards, I'm going to switch from MDF to Plywood, with it being sealed beforehand. I've been recommended to use a 12mm thickness (The mdf is 9) minimum, but also to seal it with a weathershield paint.

Returning to DCC, can I still operate the points manually on my new layout, using my fingers, even though the locos are DCC as is the controller?

Many thanks for your help folks.

 

[trainmania100]

I'm pretty sure you can change points as normal with dcc.
Dcc is for manually controlling individual trains with one controller

Hope you find the answers your looking for, i still use DC.

 

[robertclark125]

My layout, and the new one, are terminal layouts, and right now, I use isolating track to allow one loco to be at the buffers, and another to be at the other end of the train. Problem is, some of the isolating track doesn't work, namely, there is no power no matter which position the switch is in.

This is one of the layout updates in question btw

 

[malc-c]

The only issue you may run into when switching electrofrog points is the isolation of the frog. On some systems that use capacitors discharge units the relay contacts that switch the points can cause DCC systems to reset.

 

[dgl]

Hornby and other companies have various DCC adaptors for non DCC equipped stock you just need to find somewhere to fit the board (the Hornby one is smaller than a postage stamp iirc). They just need a connection to the track and then two wires to the motor and you are done, they also generally have other outputs for lights if necessary.

 

[SCH117X]

As it's a small layout, I'm planning on using the cheaper Hornby controller, and not the Elite. Do I need only one power connecting clip? I know I'd need to put clips in the points to make them "live", but for power to the layout, is one clip enough?
Returning to DCC, can I still operate the points manually on my new layout, using my fingers, even though the locos are DCC as is the controller?.

That Hornby controller has a poor reputation (and the Elite not much better ones); have a trawl through dcc comments on forums such as rmweb and new railway modellers, and have a look at what specialist suppliers like Digitains and DCC Supplies have. There are far better systems available. Hornby being Hornby went their own way and their are compatibility issues with other manufactures equipment despite dcc having set standards.
All the track should be live so you may need extra connections - soldering a wire to the centre underside of a rail joiner is cheaper than buying power connecting clips. The more connections the better - dcc works on digital signals being sent and any interruption can cause loss of control.
Points can be worked manually

 

[malc-c]

Being interested in electronics I'm currently experimenting with the miniDCC system developed by Robert Cote http://www.minidcc.com/
The only real drawback is unlike a commercial offering from the leading manufactures there is no warranty, although Robert does give excellent technical support

 

[robertclark125]

When I mentioned clips on points, the clips are hairpin clips, that are inserted into the space between the two running rails, and not a power connecting clip as such.

What about converting locomotives to run as DCC? I've got some Lima class 37s and 47s, which would be good to convert, but can it be done? I live in Fife, so if anyone knows anyplace that can do it, let me know.

 

[SCH117X]

Lima locos are usually very simple to fit a dcc decoder to assuming you can use a soldering iron. Replace the existing wires that are attached to the motor with the orange and grey wires from the decoder and connect the wires that were originally attached to the motor to the red and grey wires from the decoder. Joints must be soldered and shrink wrap applied where the possibility of shorting may arise.

 

[DenmarkRail]

Thoughts on the use of a Hornby Controller -> The Hornby controller is just kind of, eh.... It looks good compared to other ones, such as GaugeMaster, and Roco, but it has such bad reviews...

I use a fleischmann twin centre - Very old, but incredibly well made, and reliable. It has suvived countless projects, 2 different layouts, and probably about 12 years, and I've never had a single issue, which has prevented running services. I am certain you can buy these on ebay (There are a few around the £100 mark), but I really think they are worth every penny, given the ammount of function, and reliability.

If you'd rather go new, Ullumblock, make a new version of the Twin Centre. It is the same, but made to look new, but with a much larger screen, and easier buttons. The only issue I have had when using it, have been that I am not quite sure how to use it in English mode, but it is very simple German, so locomotive is 'LOK', and sometimes numbers are 'Eins, Zwei' or Track is "Gleis" but nothing too complicated. I know there is a way to go into English, just never really bothered to look / change it. This is a much more expensive option.

I run a Danish / Some German HO Fleet, and a German + An english class 57 N Gauge Fleet. Everything came DCC fitted, but back when I had some older stuff, I retrofitted DCC chips to them. This is an easy task, which can be learnt through Youtube. The only issue I ever encountered, was once a chip caught fire, and began burning the roof of the loco, however, the chip was swiftly swapped out, and replaced. There was no visible damage to the exterior of the loco, just a foul smell and some discolouration on the inside.

Good Luck!
G