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Half week in Wales

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TheNewNo2

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I'm planning a trip for next week as a bit of a holiday.

I'll be setting off from Nailsea & Backwell on Tuesday, heading to Porthmadog (hopefully taking in Aberystwyth on the way) for three nights, then doing the Welsh Highland Railway and the end of the Cambrian return to Pwllheli (possibly then to Minffordd for Portmeirion) over the next two days. I then plan to go to Llandudno (probably via Holyhead) and spend a night there before heading to London and getting there on Saturday.

My current thoughts are Nailsea to Porthmadog via Newport and Hereford (cheaper) and Llandudno to London via Chester and Shrewsbury, but I'm open to suggestions as to what other stupid routes I could take.
 
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gazthomas

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I would recommend taking the Ffestiniog Railway from Portmadoc to Blaenau Ffestiniog then down to Llandudno. or alternatively Portmadoc to Caernarfon on the reborn Welsh Highland and a bus to fill in the gap to Bangor
 

30907

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Depends a bit on what tickets you are using.

With a NWales Day Rover or the 4/8 version you have plenty of opportunities for crisscrossing the area by bus as well as train.

As for stupid access routes, you could consider Chiltern into London. Or even the Trawscambria or Carmarthen Aberystwyth buses to access the Cambrian, but it depends whether you are bored with the Marches line.
 

TheNewNo2

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Depends a bit on what tickets you are using.

With a NWales Day Rover or the 4/8 version you have plenty of opportunities for crisscrossing the area by bus as well as train.

As for stupid access routes, you could consider Chiltern into London. Or even the Trawscambria or Carmarthen Aberystwyth buses to access the Cambrian, but it depends whether you are bored with the Marches line.

I have somehow never got a train IN to Marylebone, so that's a possibility. As for the Marches, I've never been that way before, the trip from Nailsea will be my first.
 

30907

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I have somehow never got a train IN to Marylebone, so that's a possibility. As for the Marches, I've never been that way before, the trip from Nailsea will be my first.

It's a lovely line, shame the 1716 Cardiff Holyhead will be too late for you.
 

TheNewNo2

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I figure I should tell you all what happened:

On Tuesday 29th September, I took the 0827 from Nailsea to Bristol Temple Meads, however the train to Cardiff was delayed, and so when we got to the River Usk bridge, I saw the train I'd planned to take north heading back the other way. I ended up with a 40 minute wait at Newport, and wasn't really in the mood to enjoy it. I did however see the LHCS service go through, so that was something.

I ended up on 175109, and, because Cambrian Line services are every two hours, I was able to get off at Hereford for a look around. I have never seen so much bird **** on a single platform. I saw LM 170509 arrive and depart, and GWR 166219 arrive as well. I got on 175007 with a Manchester Piccadilly service, and got off at Shrewsbury, just in time to see a Virgin service depart. I wandered around there a while until a service from the Cambrian arrived (158824/835). Due to the service from Birmingham being delayed, it split and 158835 headed back to Aberystwyth (I think joined by another 158 at Machynlleth). I took this all the way through to Aberystwyth, and I have to say I was impressed with the train - it had a better ambience than the 175s, and even plug sockets, which given I'd just got a new phone and thus was feeling paranoid about battery was quite useful. I had a quick look for a place that would sell me a drink, but couldn't find anything. Then back on 158835 and north.

I had an option of changing at either Machynlleth or Dovey Junction, and having looked out of the window on the way there, Dovey seemed the better choice. It was a lovely day, and so I was able to spend an hour in solitude at one of the least used stations in the country. By my estimation, two people use the station each day, and I think I saw both their bikes! The place is in the middle of nowhere - it's getting on for a mile from a road. Gorgeous scenery though. Then the RAF started buzzing me (they seem to do this to my family a lot). Also excellent phone reception as there's a mast between the platforms.

By the time 158822 arrived with the Pwllheli service evening was setting in, turning the world a slight shade of red. On the way up the coast I was able to see the mountains of the Lleyn Peninsula gradually appearing out of the sea mist - beautiful. Then sunset over Moel-y-Gest as we passed Minffordd. Night was drawing in when I reached Porthmadog, so I didn't continue on to Pwllheli as I'd initially planned.

Photos from day 1: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattbuck007/albums/72157660359614291
 

Techniquest

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I've got to ask, what did you think of the Marches?

Also, which bit of my local shack (Hereford) did you observe the mess from the birds? I can't say I have noticed it in recent times.

Sounds like you had an excellent time so far, and some excellent photos there too. You certainly had some perspectives I haven't looked at in years at my local shack!
 

TheNewNo2

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I've got to ask, what did you think of the Marches?

Also, which bit of my local shack (Hereford) did you observe the mess from the birds? I can't say I have noticed it in recent times.

Sounds like you had an excellent time so far, and some excellent photos there too. You certainly had some perspectives I haven't looked at in years at my local shack!

I liked the Marches. It surprised me how happy I felt to see mountains again - I hadn't realised how much I missed them.

The bird mess was at the north end of the northbound platform, under the end of the canopy.

Glad you're enjoying the diary. I have day 2 photos ready, working on day 3, days 4 and 5 will presumably happen next week ish.
 

SickyNicky

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Glad you liked it in our neck of the woods. I have noticed the birds up in the roof in the past, so I suppose it's not surprising that they leave their little "deposits", but I've never really thought it was that bad. I shall have to take a better look next time.

If it's convenient, and you can afford the supplement, it's worth doing the WAG express Northbound one day in first class. The meal really is excellent.

And seriously, don't miss the Heart of Wales line.
 

Techniquest

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I must admit to not spending much time at that end of platform 3 these days, after all I don't need to now I don't regularly do HSTs out of The Ford! I'll have to investigate this next week!

I echo the call on the Heart of Wales line, it is well worth the effort to do if you can. However I believe you're home now!

Glad to hear you found one of my local lines to be a nice trip. If you haven't already, you'll enjoy a trip between Ledbury and Malvern Link too as the hills are simply something else! Be warned the walk into Malvern town centre is exceptionally steep, but worth the climb for the epic view!
 

Rhydgaled

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I took this all the way through to Aberystwyth, and I have to say I was impressed with the train - it had a better ambience than the 175s, and even plug sockets, which given I'd just got a new phone and thus was feeling paranoid about battery was quite useful. I had a quick look for a place that would sell me a drink, but couldn't find anything.
You couldn't find a drink in Aberystwyth? Not sure which service you were on (the ticket office / waiting room closes at 17:30) but there are vending machines in the waiting room and the GWR station building is a Wetherspoons. There are also several places on the opposite side of the road outside the front of the station which might have offered you a drink, but I suppose if you were getting back on the same train there wouldn't have been time for that (or the Wetherspoons probably).
--- old post above --- --- new post below ---
I echo the call on the Heart of Wales line, it is well worth the effort to do if you can. However I believe you're home now!
I've only done the HOWL once and was disapointed (much prefered the Cambrian coast, which I think I've done twice), though perhaps the quality of the rolling stock clouded my judgement.
 

Techniquest

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I've enjoyed the Heart of Wales on all of a 150, 153 and 37-hauled MK2s. Granted the weather does make a difference, as does the season!
 

TheNewNo2

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You couldn't find a drink in Aberystwyth? Not sure which service you were on (the ticket office / waiting room closes at 17:30) but there are vending machines in the waiting room and the GWR station building is a Wetherspoons. There are also several places on the opposite side of the road outside the front of the station which might have offered you a drink, but I suppose if you were getting back on the same train there wouldn't have been time for that (or the Wetherspoons probably).
--- old post above --- --- new post below ---
I've only done the HOWL once and was disapointed (much prefered the Cambrian coast, which I think I've done twice), though perhaps the quality of the rolling stock clouded my judgement.

I was looking for something I could take with me, and couldn't see any vending machines about nor any local newsagents.

Heart of Wales is on my to do list, in the future sometime...




Day 2!

Day 2 was another gorgeous day. After breakfast at a greasy spoon, I walked through town to Porthmadog Harbour railway station. I'd intended to take a look at the first Ffestiniog Railway departure and then head to Cob Records for 30mins, but I ended up spending the time just wandering the platform, taking photos out over Traeth Mawr.

I got the single return Welsh Highland Railway service to Caernarfon. The last time I was there, in 2009, there were no operations beyond Hafod-y-llyn, so I was quite excited to do the new bit. I got a seat in a semi-unglazed carriage, on a train hauled by NGG 16 locomotive 87 (which has been repainted since I last saw it). I think it shows how Porthmadog needs the railway that they allowed construction of the cross-town link - it turns pretty much the entire town into one giant level crossing. I guess it helps now that the A487 has been diverted (traffic was noticably less along the Cob), but still...

As we passed Coe Pawb, where the WHR has a flat crossing with the Cambrian Coast Line, I saw a 158 just arriving at the Porthmadog level crossing. A reminder that not all heritage railways can have any timetable they choose!

As we headed north, members of staff came round taking food orders and selling guidebooks. I was quite impressed by the guidebook, which had a handy fold-out map, and also by the food. I'm not sure how they do it for trains without inter-carriage doors though (or do those only run on the FR?) The carriage predictably filled with smoke through the Aberglaslyn tunnels, and I personally thought that the train ought to go slowly through the area to allow people to enjoy the river view a bit. Still, I was able to see the rock my family have picniced on in the past, so that was nice. Into Beddgelert, we saw the southbound train, and then after a brief stop we were heading further north. The scenery was lovely, especially near Moel Eilio, but I felt that overall the journey was a bit too long - it's several hours from end to end, and of course most people are likely to be doing it both ways.

The stop at Caernarfon was a bit over an hour - too long to stay at the station, but not long enough to actually do anything either. I took a walk around the perimeter of the castle, and looked through a number of tacky gift shops all of which sold the same tat. I got back to the station in good time and took my seat in the unglazed carriage again, this time it was at the end closest to the locomotive. The return trip seemed shorter, despite having to go slow for a while due to sheep on the line (not my first experience of that on the WHR).

When we arrived back, I headed straight across the road to Cob Records, but got chucked out so they could close before I'd even got to H. I walked along the high street to the mainline station and sat there for a while, then had dinner in a nearby hotel (with a broken cocktail shaker) before heading back to the station to see 158835 arrive with a Pwllheli service. Then it was back to my hotel.

Day 2 photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattbuck007/albums/72157660627928135/page2
 

Techniquest

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Several hours end to end? I must bear that in mind when I plan a trip to do the WHR then! Sounds like it's well worth doing though.

As I'm posting via the app I cannot yet see the pictures but will look as soon as I can.
 

tfesully

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North Wales with the sun out. Heaven. Lovely photos; felt like I was there and not just in spirit.
 

Rhydgaled

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Several hours end to end? I must bear that in mind when I plan a trip to do the WHR then! Sounds like it's well worth doing though.

As I'm posting via the app I cannot yet see the pictures but will look as soon as I can.
The Welsh Highland does have some very good views. I can't recall whether I made the return journey (maybe we went back to Porthmadog by bus, shame there isn't a full-size railway running Bangor-Caernarfon-Porthmadog so you could do the WHR in one direction but get back quickly on a 158).
 

TheNewNo2

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The Welsh Highland does have some very good views. I can't recall whether I made the return journey (maybe we went back to Porthmadog by bus, shame there isn't a full-size railway running Bangor-Caernarfon-Porthmadog so you could do the WHR in one direction but get back quickly on a 158).

I suppose bi-gauge tracking the WHR if the route were ever reopened to Afon Wen might be plausible, though station platforms would be tricky given the differing heights of WHR and NR stock.
 

Rhydgaled

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I suppose bi-gauge tracking the WHR if the route were ever reopened to Afon Wen might be plausible, though station platforms would be tricky given the differing heights of WHR and NR stock.
Platforms should be a simple problem to solve, just have the standard guage track diverge from the WHR's at that point (so the station isn't a mixed-gauge section), after all there's probably enough room to put the standard guage track alongside (rather than having to mix the guage) except over/under bridges. Also, on a different note, I said 'Porthmadog' not 'Afon Wen', because I favour the dotted-blue route proposed here by somebody else.
 

TheNewNo2

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Day 3! (1st October)

The third day was the day I didn't have an exact plan for. I decided to start out with the bit I did know - that I needed to complete my travels on the Cambrian Coast with a trip to Pwllheli. I got the 0850 train from Porthmadog (158835), buying a return to Pwllheli. The train was quite busy with schoolchildren, so it certainly wasn't the quiet I'd expected from a rural branch.

I'd been to Pwllheli before, back in 2009, just not by train, although I did visit the station. As such, knowing that the station has pretty much nothing to commend it, I took a walk by the harbour and to the war memorial, heading back so I could get on the return working towards Birmingham. At the war memorial I was greeted by a semi-coherent local who cottoned on to the fact I live in London and then spent the train trip shouting the names of various London districts at me. I was quite glad to get off at Criccieth.

I walked through Criccieth to the castle, and was in fact the first visitor of the day (I actually arrived before it properly opened). To be honest, Criccieth Castle is somewhat underwhelming, but it's situated on a big hill sticking out into Cardigan Bay, and on a sunny day like I had it has absolutely stunning views. I wandered around for a while before settling down to read a book in the sunshine, only interrupted when a drone started flying overhead. The RAF had checked me out by jet, and now decided I warranted closer inspection. From the castle I was able to see the next train to Pwllheli run along the coast, and I took that as my cue to head back to the station, via the Castle Gallery across the road, which has some lovely stuff and is well worth a look. If it weren't for needing to carry anything I bought home, I'd have probably bought several pieces; as it was I settled for some glass coasters as Christmas presents.

The station was surprisingly busy when I got there, in that there were people. 158833 eventually arrived, and ferried me east again. I was now faced with a choice of what to do - I came down to two options: Ffestiniog Railway to Tan-y-bwlch for lunch and back. A perusal of the timetable showed that Portmeirion was the better option, so I alighted at Minffordd, did a quick photosurvey, and then started walking to The Village. I quickly learnt that they didn't expect many visitors on foot, as the path frequently disappeared.

Portmeirion, if you have never been, is an Italianate village in miniature, and was famously the setting for the 60s TV show "The Prisoner" starring Patrick McGoohan. The Village is still dining out on that 50 years later, and has a little shop dedicated to it, in the house in which McGoohan's character lived. Again, more presents, plus a good shirt saying "A Still Tongue Makes a Happy Life". I had lunch in the Village, and wandered around a while, getting down to the water to see another train cross Pont Briwet.

After a few hours I headed back to Minffordd, and waited for a train to Porthmadog. This time it was a Ffestiniog train, and in fact two crossed in front of me - Earl of Merioneth heading north and David Lloyd George heading south. I got on the latter, and found the guard was surprisingly laissez faire about making me buy a ticket, and so instead I visited the ticket office at Porthmadog. Again I made a visit to Cob Records, but this time got chucked out so the owner could go and watch the Rugby World Cup.

I spent my evening back at Porthmadog Harbour railway station, dining on Hunter's Chicken and Chocolate Fudge Cake on the platform, and finally getting the Sex on the Beach cocktail I missed out on the previous night. I saw the Welsh Highland Railway train arrive, and also Earl of Merioneth's return, before I headed back through town to my hotel.

Day 3 photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattbuck007/albums/72157660374524970
 

Techniquest

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A varied day for sure in North Wales, Portmerion doesn't appeal to me personally but fair games :)

Surprised it was busy on the mainline though!
 

TheNewNo2

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A varied day for sure in North Wales, Portmerion doesn't appeal to me personally but fair games :)

Surprised it was busy on the mainline though!

It was as busy as it ever is - one train in each direction every two hours. I just happened to pay attention to them. It did surprise me how far south along the coast you could see the train from Portmeirion.
 

WAB

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As we headed north, members of staff came round taking food orders and selling guidebooks. I was quite impressed by the guidebook, which had a handy fold-out map, and also by the food. I'm not sure how they do it for trains without inter-carriage doors though (or do those only run on the FR?)
Heritage coaches mainly run on the FR as peak boosters. A single heritage coach is usually attached to each RhE set, but are not usually popular due to the lack of access to toilets, food etc. Sometimes the staff will offer the occupants refreshments/guidebooks at intermediate stations.
 

TheNewNo2

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Day 4! (2nd October)

My last day in Porthmadog - after checking out of the hotel, I headed through town to the Ffestiniog Railway and wandered around until Cob Records opened at 9am. After the third session there I finally completed my shopping for CDs, and went back to the station to buy a ticket for Blaenau Ffestiniog. The locomotive for the day was Earl of Merioneth, and it seemed to be a pretty long rake of carriages, as ever half-full of coach parties, this time on their way to Llechwedd slate mine.

I'd been on the Ffestiniog many times before (albeit not since I started my railway maps in 2008), but I have to say I'd never felt quite as emotional about it as I did when we rounded the bend at Boston Lodge and Porthmadog disappeared into the trees. It had been a nice few days, and the town looked beautiful reflected in the water.

Beyond Minffordd I was able to see my first glimpse of the new A487 Porthmadog and Minffordd bypass, and as we headed up through Penrhyn and towards Tan-y-bwlch I was surprised by how much I could see - it seems they've been doing some tree trimming so you get a view for more than 0.1s at a time. Tan-y-bwlch had a new footbridge since I was last there in 2009, but apart from that the journey was fairly uneventful. A bit uncomfortable due to wanting to take photos out of the low windows - no open carriages on this train. There was an engineering train with Moel Hebog in the passing loop at Dduallt.

We arrived into Blaenau on time, and everyone piled off. I crossed the road to buy lunch, then got on Arriva Trains Wales 150284, working a Llandudno service. This was a stretch of line I had done before back in 2009, but it was a much sunnier day this time. It's a pretty long journey to Llandudno Junction, but there's some nice scenery to admire. I got off at Llandudno Junction and bought a return ticket to Holyhead - a bit more line to do. 175103 arrived and departed back to Manchester before 175003 arrived to take me to Holyhead. It was a surprisingly busy train, and with annoyingly dirty windows, which put pay to getting any good photos from the train.

I alighted at Holyhead and had a bit of a wander round while the train prepared for the return trip. I took some photos of RAF Valley (that'll teach them to follow me whenever I go on holiday), and got off again at Llandudno Junction, where 175111 took me to Llandudno. Since I was last there it seems Deganwy has been downgraded to a request stop.

I checked into my hotel, then had a bit of a wander along the beach. There's a memorial to a speedboat tragedy with the words "only the tide is certain to return to shore". I watched the sun disappear behind the Great Orme, then went back to the hotel for dinner.


Day 4 photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattbuck007/albums/72157660389462979
 

Techniquest

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Quite a good day had there, although a shame about the mucky windows on 175003 spoiling photo opportunities!

Another excellent read, as has become expected! I really want to get up there and do those narrow guage lines!
 

TheNewNo2

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Day 5! (3rd October)

This was my last day in Wales - I wanted to get back and have a full day's recovery before going to a Weird Al Yankovic gig on the Sunday. I was awake early and left the hotel to take a walk on the beach. I was able to watch the sun rise from behid the eastern hills, then went back for breakfast and checkout.

I walked to Llandudno railway station, where 175101 swiftly arrived on a Manchester Piccadilly run. When the guard came to sort out my ticket, I explained I was headed to London by way of Shrewsbury, so he left me alone for a few minutes while he checked the rest of the train, then came back and sold me a split ticket to Birmingham. I sat on the coastal side of the train, but didn't get any good photos. The sunshine of Llandudno swiftly disappeared, and by the time I alighted at Chester the weather was decidedly foggy.

I'd never been to Chester before, and I have to say that while it is entirely lacking in any sort of pleasant looks, the operations are quite interesting. My train arrived on time, but was mysteriously delayed departing, leading to everyone disembarking for 150110/149, which had recently appeared from the west. Several Merseyrail trains came and went, almost turning around and leaving before you'd even realised they were there in the first place. I paid a visit to WH Smiths, then boarded 175111, which was working a Holyhead to Cardiff service.

It was around this time that I realised Chester to Shrewsbury is not actually the Welsh Marches Line, and thus I hadn't managed to complete the line. Another visit required.

The weather stayed pretty bad as we travelled south, and I was surprised by how much of the line was single track. I made sure to look out for the Wrexham Central branch, though there was no train visible when we passed. In fact I only saw one other train before getting off at Shrewsbury.

My North Wales journey had now completed its loop, but I wasn't quite done with new territory yet. I boarded 158841/829, which were working a Cambrian to Birmingham service. This was where the pleasant part of my train journeys ended, as, even on a Saturday, these trains are pretty packed. While I was able to get a seat, I wasn't the relaxing journey I'd got used to over the past few days. When we reached Wolverhampton I was back on ground I'd covered previously, and I did consider getting out, but decided that given I was now encumbered with a box of shoes as well as 28 CDs and a wooden cat, I should probably just stay aboard.

The mist had cleared by the time we reached Birmingham, and I was able to get my first view of the new New Street. The outside is shiny, and fun to take photos with. The inside is spacious and light. The platforms are still a dank and depressing ****hole. I stayed a while outside to take photos of the reflections, then made my way to Moor Street. That was actually a lot easier than expected - I tried to go between Moor Street and New Street last year, and ended up going a very circuitous route. But this time I found the way without any problems, although it's still not an easy interchange by any means, and the coming of HS2 to Curzon Street will just make matters worse.

I arrived at Moor Street with not a moment to spare. I bought a ticket and jumped aboard Chiltern 168112, which formed the 1255 departure for Marylebone. This was also pretty busy, but I got myself a seat with a plug socket. While the grey of the mainline trains is pretty dull to look at, they are well-appointed. We ran a few minutes late most of the way, and it made me realise just how bloody long it is from Aynho Junction to London. I arrived into Marylebone at 1445, and finally it was sunny, just in time for me to head underground to go home via the Bakerloo and Jubilee Lines.


Thus ended my holiday. Slightly under 200 (mainline) trains spotted, around 3500 photos taken, 725.44 miles travelled by train, 218 stations passed through.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattbuck007/albums/72157660601244407
 

Techniquest

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A fantastic finale to the trip, an excellent read.

Some really gorgeous photos, although I have to admit one of my favourites is the 150 at the foggy Chester. Feels really atmospheric! Like the one at Moor Street too mind.

Edit: No idea where the thumbs down thing came from?
 
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