Nicholas43
Member
- Joined
- 16 Jun 2011
- Messages
- 512
I dislike the airport-like faff and milling about and waiting in a dungeon at St Pancras, so I went the old-school way. I was at Charing Cross in good time for the 0836 to Dover Priory. I'd already bought my day return to Calais, £26.70 with a senior railcard. The front of the 12-car train spilled out beyond the platform. A bright cold day. Wonderful view of Westminster bridge as we pulled out. I tried and failed to identify all the diverging and burrowing lines as we ambled past Borough Market and New Cross. Lovely autumn colours from Orpington to Ashford. Sad view of the remains of the sidings for the Folkestone Harbour branch. Then sparkling sea and cliffs. Arrived at Priory at 1040 (2 minutes late). Walked to the foot passenger building, which seems to be three-quarters demolished, via the sea front and the East Cliff back lane. Arrived at 1103 (I walk fast!) just in time to be checked in for the 1205 sailing.
I was the only customer for the shuttle bus. Went straight to the club lounge. Delightfully friendly welcome, with the news that the upgrade is currently only £6. Calm light lunch, with occasional strolls outside to watch the cliffs recede. We left early and docked at Calais at 1420 continental time. The usual 10 minutes wait while they find someone to lower the ramp to connect to the boat. Then instantly on the shuttle bus to the terminal.
Leisurely stroll to Calais Ville. Admired the new statues of de Gaulle and Churchill in the Parc Richelieu. De Gaulle about twice Churchill's height. Friendly ticket clerk provided an elderly discounted ticket to Lille Flandres, and printed my tickets from Lille to Paris, Paris to Geneva, and Geneva to Stresa. Very swish double-decker regional train to Lille, through rather boring landscapes.
I stayed the night in Lille (another story). Next morning, coffee and pain au raisin at Lille Flandres and then the 0641 to Paris Gare du Nord. This was 2 rakes, platformed at the last minute. Front rake (on departure) not in use. Uneventful run. To cross to the Gare de Lyon, I prefer Metro line 5 to Quai de la Rapée. Grey view of Notre Dame, and exciting views of Metro trains climbing and descending the tight curve from the below-ground station to the bridge.
0917 Lyria to Geneva. Of course, no faff whatever before boarding this international train. A gremlin had scrambled the seat numbers, but a fellow passenger helped me find mine, the one numbered 62, which was in the thirties block. Rather boring second breakfast, with plastic coffee. Dramatic views around Nantua: this stretch alone is worth the journey. No frontier checks at Cornavin. Light lunch at the station.
1339 to Milan platformed in good time and at a seemingly daring pace. Grey views of distant snowy mountains across the lake, and a classic forbidding glimpse of the Castle of Chillon. The evening sun arrived as we ambled down to Domodossola, and coasted into that fascinating station. Stresa has a waiting room little changed since 1932, with a huge wooden dresser, and pretty floor tiles. I took five minutes to buy from the machine my ticket from Stresa to Varese, because the machine insists on speaking every possible option at every stage. Old school locomotive and carriages from Stresa to Gallarate. Very new emu from Gallarate to Varese, which talks to you in Italian and in 1950s English, threatening that you will be "persecuted" if you haven't got a ticket. On this Trenord train, arrived on time in Varese, not to be confused with Varese Nord, the adjoining station built by the erstwhile Ferrovia Nord Milano.
My return on the overnight Thello from Milan to Paris was enlivened by a glimpse of a wonderful steam special puffing out of Centrale, and a wake-up at Vallorbe from the French frontier police, who are currently checking all passports. It was 5 am, and I didn't mind because I was already awake, admiring the snow-covered platforms.
I was the only customer for the shuttle bus. Went straight to the club lounge. Delightfully friendly welcome, with the news that the upgrade is currently only £6. Calm light lunch, with occasional strolls outside to watch the cliffs recede. We left early and docked at Calais at 1420 continental time. The usual 10 minutes wait while they find someone to lower the ramp to connect to the boat. Then instantly on the shuttle bus to the terminal.
Leisurely stroll to Calais Ville. Admired the new statues of de Gaulle and Churchill in the Parc Richelieu. De Gaulle about twice Churchill's height. Friendly ticket clerk provided an elderly discounted ticket to Lille Flandres, and printed my tickets from Lille to Paris, Paris to Geneva, and Geneva to Stresa. Very swish double-decker regional train to Lille, through rather boring landscapes.
I stayed the night in Lille (another story). Next morning, coffee and pain au raisin at Lille Flandres and then the 0641 to Paris Gare du Nord. This was 2 rakes, platformed at the last minute. Front rake (on departure) not in use. Uneventful run. To cross to the Gare de Lyon, I prefer Metro line 5 to Quai de la Rapée. Grey view of Notre Dame, and exciting views of Metro trains climbing and descending the tight curve from the below-ground station to the bridge.
0917 Lyria to Geneva. Of course, no faff whatever before boarding this international train. A gremlin had scrambled the seat numbers, but a fellow passenger helped me find mine, the one numbered 62, which was in the thirties block. Rather boring second breakfast, with plastic coffee. Dramatic views around Nantua: this stretch alone is worth the journey. No frontier checks at Cornavin. Light lunch at the station.
1339 to Milan platformed in good time and at a seemingly daring pace. Grey views of distant snowy mountains across the lake, and a classic forbidding glimpse of the Castle of Chillon. The evening sun arrived as we ambled down to Domodossola, and coasted into that fascinating station. Stresa has a waiting room little changed since 1932, with a huge wooden dresser, and pretty floor tiles. I took five minutes to buy from the machine my ticket from Stresa to Varese, because the machine insists on speaking every possible option at every stage. Old school locomotive and carriages from Stresa to Gallarate. Very new emu from Gallarate to Varese, which talks to you in Italian and in 1950s English, threatening that you will be "persecuted" if you haven't got a ticket. On this Trenord train, arrived on time in Varese, not to be confused with Varese Nord, the adjoining station built by the erstwhile Ferrovia Nord Milano.
My return on the overnight Thello from Milan to Paris was enlivened by a glimpse of a wonderful steam special puffing out of Centrale, and a wake-up at Vallorbe from the French frontier police, who are currently checking all passports. It was 5 am, and I didn't mind because I was already awake, admiring the snow-covered platforms.
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