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Rich travels across Europe and Asia...

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rg177

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I think it’s time to brighten up this section of the forum a little by providing some trip reports where I can! University commitments for me are continuing, albeit online only, so I can’t throw all of my time into this, but I do of course also have a lot of hours to fill now that we’re under lockdown.

So, it’s time to get things started with last summer’s trip to Japan.

21/08/19

I started the day by departing from the Mercure Heathrow and jumping on the 140 to the Airport, Terminal 2. It was a pretty calm morning and I was swiftly checked in and my bag was dropped, before I headed through security and picked up some supplies from Boots.

My flight today was SQ317, in the hands of 9V-SKS, a Singapore Airlines Airbus A380, which was to take me on the roughly 13hr journey to Singapore Changi.

9V-SKS SQ317, Heathrow by Richard Green, on Flickr

Boarding was on time but straight away my heart sank with dread, because while I was sat down in my seat, surrounded by the wonderful smiling staff, a child had boarded, then proceeded to throw itself on the floor and scream. Not just cry, scream. And this was how it was for the entire flight. Where was it sitting? Behind me, obviously. I won’t rant about this, because even at the time, what could I do. The parents were perfectly pleasant and were evidently having a hard time, but at points throughout the flight the child was not only screaming, but violently kicking my seat and even climbing on top of it. Let’s just say I didn’t sleep much!


The service was prompt after we took off, and I availed myself of a Singapore Sling and a bag of nuts/peas/snack things prior to food service. I opted for the chicken dinner with potatoes, and a pasta salad, and it was all delicious. Food is served in proper crockery with proper cutlery, and while it didn’t agree with my stomach (both ways, shall we say that my stomach made it clear it wasn’t a fan!) I was kept well fed throughout. After this, it was blinds down for a good nine hours or so, and I drifted in and out of a light sleep as I worked my way through episodes of “Chernobyl”, a very ominous watch when there was frequent turbulence.

Eventually though, it was time for breakfast. I was served beef noodles, as well as fruit, yoghurt and bread with coffee and juice. Another proper sized meal, and one that my stomach was most grateful for! Landing was on time, at around 8am local time (having left Heathrow at 12pm BST).

22/08/19

So welcome to the next day, I suppose! I had little time on arrival at Singapore Changi to admire the gorgeous airport, so it was straight to the gate for my next flight, SQ620 to Osaka-Kansai. This was a rather antiquated looking Airbus A330, 9V-SSI, in comparison to the A380, but seating was in a 2+4+2 configuration, meaning that I only had one companion, a middle-aged Japanese bloke who slept the whole way, much better than a screaming kid!

Departure was timely once again and I had myself a can of Tiger Beer before food service, I was on holiday after all! This time I had the Japanese option, which was Shoga Yaki, essentially pork in a ginger sauce served with an omelette, vegetables and a side of green tea noodles, and of course, a lot of rice. It was a 3/3 for food so far as this was yet another delicious meal, albeit the only one on this 6hr 20min flight, and after we ate, I had myself some sleep before landing.

I landed a little disorientated, but made my way to security and immigration, which was pretty painless, and my passport had a printed sticker placed on it, before I proceeded to completely bungle customs. See, flights tend to knacker my hearing, so two consecutive ones meant that I was barely able to understand the poor bloke. Somehow, despite making a mess of my answers, he didn’t seem bothered and gave me a bow and a “Welcome to Japan!”, leaving me free to wander outside towards the station.

My god, the humidity. It was like someone had left the shower on in a bathroom for too long. A sauna, if you will. I powerwalked back into air-conditioned heaven and exchanged my voucher for a Japan Rail Pass before getting an ICOCA card (Like Oyster, but technically speaking, it covers the whole country, and many shops!), loading it up, and tapping in. I descended to the platform for a Kansai Airport Rapid Service, which was cheap, but it was slow. That said, it was comfortable enough, and did the job, with me getting into Osaka’s main station after around an hour, and aimlessly doing a few circles outside.

JR Osaka Kansai Airport Rapid, Kansai Airport by Richard Green, on Flickr

Eventually, I reached my hotel, the Ibis Osaka Umeda, got into bed shortly before 8pm, and flaked out. I felt pretty unwell from the humidity and jetlag, and my stomach wasn’t dealing well either.

23/08/19

I didn’t surface until around 8:30am, and was certainly feeling better, but my stomach didn’t actually get used to the heat for almost a week, and my ears took a good few days as well. Naturally, I didn’t go nuts and started things slowly!

I had myself some breakfast from the hotel (a reasonable, but very random selection, including “Taco Rice”- literally Chilli Con Carne. I stuck to the fruit and pastries), before deciding that seeing as my pass wasn’t to start until tomorrow, I made my way to Osaka Umeda Station, home of the Hankyu Private Railway, which runs a series of services on a small network around Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto. Here is a map:

XloMZ9x.png


Buying the ticket (a tourist pass, valid on all their services), I headed for the 10:00 Limited Express service, formed of 7013/7113, across to Kobe-Sannomiya. It was certainly an experience, with some nice blasting AC as we rattled our way through the majority of stations, arriving around half an hour later.

7113, Osaka Umeda, Hankyu Railway by Richard Green, on Flickr

Interior, 7000 series, Hankyu Railway by Richard Green, on Flickr

With the help of the ICOCA card, I was able to saunter over to the Kobe Port Liner light rail system, and caught a set to Shimin Hiroba, so that I could travel over the other side of the loop, and return fairly quickly to the Hankyu station, and pick up some supplies from the FamilyMart.

2611, Kobe Port-Liner by Richard Green, on Flickr

Interior, Kobe Port-Liner by Richard Green, on Flickr

Map:

fTkeWnj.png


It was now time for a nice bash along most of the network, firstly picking up 7008/7108 back along the line as far as Shukagawa, to the first of the small branch lines. It was 6021/6121 taking me along to Koyoen, which didn’t take very long at all, and I was quickly shuttled back to Shukagawa, having spent my time sat behind the driver admiring their way of working. It was also a swift, perfect connection back onto the mainline and catching 1107/1107 to Nishinomiya-kitaguchi. This connects onto another small line to Imazu, and it was 6020/6120 doing the honours for the short return hop before 5001/5053 were taking me up to Takarazuka.

6021/6121- Shukugawa, Hankyu Railway by Richard Green, on Flickr

9010/9110, Ishibashi, Hankyu Railway by Richard Green, on Flickr

Over the next couple of hours, I then made my way through ticking off the entire network on the map (other than the Nose Line), where I later experienced a pretty interesting form of operation as I tapped in my ICOCA card to join what was technically a Hankyu service out of Tenjimbashisu. It joined the Osaka Metro and became one of their services- and I stayed aboard to Kitahama.

6351/6451, Arashiyama, Hankyu Railway by Richard Green, on Flickr

9305/9405, Ibaraki, Hankyu Railway by Richard Green, on Flickr

It was then a walk through the streets of Osaka to Temmabashi, via the Keihan Railway, and onwards to Umeda via the Subway, where I had begun. The journey on the subway was like it was out of those videos you see online where everyone’s cramming themselves in. One bloke was even using a laptop in the crowded carriage but the way to travel on these services is to be assertive. Don’t be afraid to elbow your way off!

It was however not the end of the day, because I had myself a walk over to the Osaka Skytree, and took in some views of the skyline, before having a walk back to the hotel.

24/08/19

It was time to pack up and I was underway at shortly before 8am out of Osaka, with my Japan Rail Pass now being valid. It was stamped, accompanied with a bow, as I headed for the 0810 Thunderbird service to Kyoto, and on arrival, took a while to find the right exit for the Ibis Styles Kyoto Station. Eventually though, I found it, and was greeted by a bunch of lovely staff who took my case and said my room would be ready later this afternoon. All I really wanted anyway was to get the case off my hands, so that would do nicely!

The first stop today was the Kyoto Railway Museum, so I took 221-K16, a smart but very overcrowded unit, on the 0914 to Umekoji-Kyotonishi, and the sun was certainly beating down already. I joined the queue into the museum and sat down in the shade with a bottle of water. It was getting busy already, and the cultural relationship that Japan has with its railways was very stark here. It was full of families, and there was a lottery system used to have a go on the simulators, along with plenty of dressing up, and even a recreation of the ceremony that JR newbies go through when they join the company!

JR 221 Series, Umekoji Kyotonishi by Richard Green, on Flickr

I was content however with just having a look at the cancellation and playing with a few of the small simulations, including buying a ticket and putting it in a gate :lol: There was also a roof terrace, but it was much too hot and so once I was satisfied that I’d seen everything, I got on my way, and it was 221-K7 taking me back to Kyoto. I then picked up some more drinks and navigated my way through the huge station onto the 1133 to Nara, in the hands of 220-3, another fairly similar, and well loaded unit. At least this time I had a seat though, and it was a pleasant enough run through the countryside. Indeed, this area of the region, around Nara and Oji, is home to most of Japan’s green tea production. There’s a wide selection of gifts made from the stuff in Kyoto station.

JR 0 Series, Kyoto Railway Museum by Richard Green, on Flickr

JR 500 Series, Kyoto Railway Museum by Richard Green, on Flickr

Kyoto Railway Museum by Richard Green, on Flickr

I jumped on a bus when I got to Nara as it seemed like a rather long walk to the historic centre, and buses in Japan are certainly a rather different experience. I sat myself at the front across from the driver and the sheer care and attention was insane. The driver wore a microphone and would greet everyone, as well as bidding them goodbye personally. We stayed right to time and payment was on exit (I think it was around £1.50), again with the ICOCA card. I was deposited at the Nara Park, which is home to a lot of very very tame deer, as I had neglected to research, and I must say it was a very pleasant surprise! The scenery and sights were gorgeous, I won’t pretend that I know loads about them, but I had a pleasant two hours or so wandering around, before getting a late lunch and having an afternoon on the railways, this time having a slow wander down to the station.

220-3, JR Nara Station by Richard Green, on Flickr

Deer, Nara by Richard Green, on Flickr

Nara Kotsu Bus by Richard Green, on Flickr

Nara by Richard Green, on Flickr

It was 221-47 taking me along to Kyuhoji, essentially heading around the bottom of Osaka and aiming to knock off some lines around there. It was a much more interesting, and older, 201-93 taking me to Shin-Osaka, which is essentially a station on the edge of the city that serves as an interchange for the Shinkansen Lines. This line, the Osaka Higashi Line, was fairly lightly used at this time of day, and it was a pleasant enough 40 minutes trip or so, before I headed across to Osaka and had a trip around the Loop Line, around to Tennoji, where I headed along to Kyuhoji, just to plug the gap in my coverage, before heading back over and going through to Osaka-Namba on 201-92.

JR 201-93, Kyuohogi by Richard Green, on Flickr

A short trip back to Imamiya followed, so I could rejoin the loop, with the final conventional line of the day to tick off being the line to Sakurajima, Universal Studios. I was however keen to get back to Shin Osaka for something a little more exciting.

JR 322-LS19, Nishikujo by Richard Green, on Flickr

It was only a short trip, but I headed to the Shinkansen platforms to take a Kodama service to Kyoto. It was pretty empty (the service starts at Shin Osaka and calls at all stations to Tokyo), but it was N700-F3, one of the newest sets on the system, taking me along to Kyoto for just after 6pm.

JR N700-F3, Kyoto by Richard Green, on Flickr

As I was making my way along the concourse, an older unit caught my sights, and so I had a short trip out to Yamashina on 117-603, before returning on 223-W15.

JR 117-304, Kyoto by Richard Green, on Flickr

I returned to my hotel, to be told that my case was already in my room, and that I’d been left a drink, a pack of rice crackers, and some useful maps. Well timed, as tomorrow it was time to have a proper explore of Kyoto, before the masses came out to play.

Thanks for reading, this will be continued shortly! Any questions too, fire away.
 
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Jamesrob637

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I loved my time in Osaka. I stayed in Tennoji: believe you went there but only to change trains. Maybe you went to the zoo or nearby Dotonbori another day: I eagerly await the report! Shame you had the screaming kid on the A380 over from LHR, but at least the parents had a sense of control. Worst thing is when they do sod all!
 

sftfan1909

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Quite enjoyed reading that one, looking forward to continuing it :D Japan is definitely high up on my list of countries to visit
 

rg177

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25/08/19

I was out fairly bright and early after breakfast had been served at the hotel, which again had some rather unusual offerings, but I was able to put together a decent plate of food before heading for the Kyoto Subway. Having touched in, it was time for 1110/1810 to take me to Imadegawa, which I had worked out as being the best place to jump off for the Imperial Palace, which I encircled in almost complete solitude, before taking a look at the Gyoen National Garden and generally just taking in the whole area. At 7:30 on a Sunday morning, it was complete bliss, shall we say.

Kyoto Subway 1110, Imadegawa by Richard Green, on Flickr

Kyoto by Richard Green, on Flickr

Kyoto by Richard Green, on Flickr

After this, I headed out towards the Kamo River across towards the Heian Shrine and Okazaki Park. Again, Kyoto was still only waking up so it was a good chance to wander around and really take it all in. Although, in the midst of my admiration of this part, I noted a giant hornet about the size of my fist, which was hovering around near a lamppost, which prompted me to powerwalk in the other direction :lol: This led me towards the Maruyama Park and again another beautiful arch, just as the crowds started to pick up.

Kyoto by Richard Green, on Flickr

I ended up taking a photo of a Singaporean (?) couple outside of the arch and we got chatting for a while as the bloke’s daughter was also studying journalism. It was certainly nice to be chatting to folk, as in this part of the world, with very little Japanese knowledge, that was often very difficult! To end off my wander (about four miles of walking later!) I took myself into the old part of Kyoto. It’s full of wooden structures and small tea-houses and restaurants, although sadly a Bento meal for about £24 was stretching it just a little.

Kyoto by Richard Green, on Flickr

Back to the trains, I headed to Kyoto-Kawaramachi station, as I was back on the Hankyu Railway. This time, it was time to catch the 10:41 to Osaka-Umeda, in the hands of 7006/7106. However, this was a pretty special service, as it was the Kyo-Train GARAKU, a train decked out like a Japanese garden, with all sorts of different seating arrangements and designs inside. I had myself a wander through, before sitting myself down and admiring once again the strong relationship that the Japanese people have with their railways. Everyone was wandering around, taking photographs, and seemed completely enthused by the experience. Arrival into Osaka, as ever, was spot on time, and I made my way towards the JR station.

Interior, Hankyu Kyo Train Garaku by Richard Green, on Flickr

7006/7106, Umeda, Hankyu Railway by Richard Green, on Flickr

I spent some time picking up supplies here, before joining the 12:15 service to Himeji, operated by 220-W20, and it was a fairly busy commuter-type service, essentially being the conventional line that parallels the Shinkansen towards Hiroshima. It was a fairly non-descript run, and in all honesty I was struggling to think of how to fill my afternoon on the railway, as my legs certainly couldn’t hack any further walking in the heat!

I settled on having a wee ride into the mountains for a different type of scenery, and so it was time to leave the wires behind as I joined DMU 189-H2 for the ride to Wadayama. It was a pleasant, if slow and sweeping trip through the valleys, though I did question my choice of destination somewhat, even if the journey had been a wonderful insight into rural Japan.

JR 189-H2, Himeji by Richard Green, on Flickr

I had around 45 minutes for the train to Shin-Osaka, returning via a different route, but while I’d usually go out for a wander, I wasn’t feeling particularly ship-shape and decided to kill my time in the air-conditioned waiting room. It was a good opportunity to have myself a drink and give my legs a chance to stretch out before I returned to the platform for 288-2010 and 289-3518 (I think that’s right- these units along with their similar looking 683 series counterparts were an absolute pain to get numbers from). The journey took around 2hr 15min, and it was again a slow and sweeping but gorgeous run down the Takarazuka Line. I don’t remember too much other than that, which probably means I had myself a nap at one point or another!

JR 289 Series, Shin-Osaka by Richard Green, on Flickr

On arrival at Shin-Osaka, it was time for hop on the Shinkansen (something I loved being able to do, as you can tell!), N700-F11 this time, back to Kyoto, where I retired to my hotel with dinner in hand from 7/11, as it was an early start the next day for my proper first trip across Japan.

JR N700-F11, Kyoto by Richard Green, on Flickr
 

rg177

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26/08/19

It was up early this morning as I packed my bag and headed out for around 6:20am, with the sun already up but the heat not quite so intense. 220-V30 was my ride to Shin-Osaka, and it was already standing room only which is a pretty stark commentary on the work culture here. By the time we were approaching Shin-Osaka, it was completely rammed, and everyone was asleep standing up, with one bloke somehow falling asleep, standing up, resting on my shoulder. Usually I’d shake someone off, but I decided to let him off, he was probably in for a long and tough day!

With that, it was off to the Shinkansen gateline, and I flashed my pass and headed for the 07:15 Sakura service to Kagoshima-Chuo, in the hands of N700-S15. Initially, my intention today was to hop off in Hiroshima, but with me feeling perkier than I had in previous days, I decided to swap days in my plan and continue right through for Nagasaki, on the basis of “I’m here, so I may as well”. Once we were on the move, it was a damned good experience speeding our way west through Okayama, Hiroshima, Kitakyushu (Kokura) and Fukuoka (Hakata). The time to change trains for Nagasaki was at Shin-Tosu, around 2hr 30mins, but a mammoth 400+ miles, after leaving Shin-Osaka.

I took the time to nip into the FamilyMart here, and bought myself an umbrella, because while it was hot, it was incredibly wet and humid and I was expecting some very lively weather (although the worst was yet to come!) today. My next train was the Kamome service, operated by 885 series units, which I’d almost describe as a slightly squashed ICE! 885-SM2 was pretty lightly loaded, and I sat down on the coastal side for the amble through to Nagasaki. What becomes very noticeable though, once you get off the Shinkansen, is just how slow the classic lines are, even if they are very scenic. It took around 1hr 50min to reach Nagasaki, and I was greeted by the sound of violins playing over the station PA, just one of those little things that makes travelling here a pleasure. Every station has its own unique tune, and the fester on a station is always penetrated by the echoes of its very own melody.

JR 885-SM2 "Kamome", Nagasaki by Richard Green, on Flickr

817-V022, Nagasaki by Richard Green, on Flickr

There was no time to waste, as I worked out that I had just over two hours here, and I jumped aboard 1201, my first Japanese tram experience, to the Nagasaki Peace Park. See, with the time I had, I had the choice of either taking in this, or the city itself. I chose this, purely as it seemed far more poignant a choice. It was an entertaining wee run, and Nagasaki has a wide variety of older trams running around too, so it’s a good place to experience them, too! It’s similar to buses as well, so you pay on exit, and the driver gives a sort of running commentary as you go, as well as greeting everyone and bidding them goodbye.

Nagasaki Tramway by Richard Green, on Flickr

It was only a short walk to the Peace Park, reached by a series of outdoor escalators. The main component of the park is a selection of memorials and statues donated by countries of the world over the years in the memory of those who perished in the bombing, as well as a series of fountains. It’s said that many of those who died, died begging for water, hence water featuring heavily in many memorials. At the head of the park is a statue pointing in various directions, each signifying something different, most notably, up pointing to the danger of nuclear bombs from above.

Nagasaki Peace Park by Richard Green, on Flickr

I then made my way down to the street once again, and headed into the museum, entry being a fairly nominal fee. I should add that everything here, with a few exceptions, has signage in English, including in the museum. Within it, was a selection of items recovered from the blast, as well as a variety of displays and videos from survivors recounting events. It was easy enough to cover in about half an hour, but felt pretty essential. Finally, I made my way down to Ground Zero, marked by a black obelisk. Down here also were the remains of a church and a cutaway of the ground, showing ground level at the time of the blast, and the sheer amount of debris and shrapnel.

Ground Zero, Nagasaki by Richard Green, on Flickr

Nagasaki Peace Park by Richard Green, on Flickr

I left feeling a little solemn as I headed through the rain back to the tram, this time a well loaded older one, 211. I then popped into the shop outside, leaving my brolly by the door (as everyone did!) and getting some lunch. It was then time to head back onto the railway, on the “Seaside Liner”, which in reality was a rather old-school KiHa 67 DMU, 67-8 in this case. It was a nice run though, taking in Omura Bay, and a lot of wee rural shacks on the way. In essence, it felt very much like a miniaturised Cumbrian Coast Line! My destination was Huis Ten Bosch, albeit not to visit the theme park which was merely a Dutch town in miniature, though it was viewable from the platforms, with the Haikiseto Strait standing in between.

Nagasaki Peace Park by Richard Green, on Flickr

JR 67-8, Huis Ten Bosch by Richard Green, on Flickr

I had jumped off here because my train to Hakata had a portion starting here that joined with another at Haiki, the next stop. This portion was aptly named the “Huis Ten Bosch” and was adorned in a bright livery with a similarly stark interior. 783-CM24 was the unit I picked up here, with 783-CM12 tagging along shortly afterwards for the ride to Hakata, or Fukuoka as people in the west more commonly call it. I was for all intents and purposes heading for Kyoto now, as it was getting into the evening rush hour, but I persisted and headed for the Sonic Limited Express, 787-BM12 this time, getting an aisle seat with it being pretty busy. This train very much looked like a squashed TGV Atlantique!

JR 783-CM24, Huis Ten Bosch by Richard Green, on Flickr

Interior, JR 783 Series by Richard Green, on Flickr

JR 787-BM12 "Sonic", Kokura by Richard Green, on Flickr

This followed the more classic route as opposed to the Shinkansen towards Kitakyushu/Kokura, but due to the less than ideal seat, not much of the scenery was taken in (mostly coastal around these parts) and I remember very little other than the train being very comfortable indeed :lol: Arrival at Kokura was once again, spot on time (which isn’t actually a given here, just very common!) and it was time for a powerwalk. I noted the funky monorail that headed into the roof of the station, before also noticing an abundance of Welsh flags. See, the rugby was about to start in Japan, and it seems that Wales’ first match was in Kokura! “Go go Wales!” was also adorned on these, so it seems that Kyushu was fully throwing its support behind them this time.

Kokura Station by Richard Green, on Flickr

A short walk later, I reached the point of my wander, Kokura Castle. It was a beautiful structure, although my attention was increasingly being drawn towards the amount of bugs flying around, so I sprayed on the insect repellent (I managed to only get one insect bite this entire trip!) and kept walking towards Nishi-Kokura station, where I had just enough time to nip into the 7/11, get myself some dinner (trust me, the food from these wee shops is always damn tasty!) and hop on a nice older EMU in the form of 411-110 back to Kokura proper.

Kokura Castle by Richard Green, on Flickr

JR 411-110, Kokura by Richard Green, on Flickr

I had worked out that I could amble around on the classic lines back as far as Shin-Shimonoseki, which in reality was only the next stop in the Shinkansen. Another brightly coloured older EMU, 411-125, was taking me there, and it was a short hop to Shimonoseki, where 115-N19 was waiting to take me to Shin-Shimonoseki. It was already dark, so little in the way of scenery!

JR 115-N19, Shin Shimonoseki by Richard Green, on Flickr

I had around 20 minutes before my train, so I picked up a can of Asahi Clear Cooler (a sort of strong Radler) for about £1.60 from the 7/11, and sat back in a chair to watch some sort of looping promo videos on TV in the waiting room about the different scenic railways in Kyushu. But, soon enough, it was time to join the 20:09 Sakura, in the hands of N700-S5 back to Shin-Osaka, followed by 224-I6 to Kyoto. The former was near-empty, the latter was absolutely rammed full of the same salarymen that had been joining me on the first train of the morning, again all asleep.

JR N700-S5, Shin Osaka by Richard Green, on Flickr

I slept well that night, arriving in Kyoto at around 11pm.
 

87electric

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Also bringing my wonderful memories back. The rail system for me has a magical feeling about it that I don’t get with many countries.
Excellent reports and photos and thank you for sharing.
 

NorthWestRover

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A very interesting report. Led to me to look up more on the shinkansen. There have been/are some odd looking specimens, aren't there?
 

ATW Alex 101

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Very interesting reading. Thanks Rich! It seems you are having a great time. Japan is one of my next destinations, I’m slowly trying to tick off Asia as I go.
 
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