Triang Jinty shorting out on points

[Greetlander]

Hi all - I posted this on the Hornby site but I figure it can’t hurt here.

I’ve recently started modelling with my 6yo. Built the layout etc, all going well.

Someone gave me a Triang Jinty that had been boxed up since the late 1970s. Despite being technically challenged I’ve managed to clean it up and lubricate and it goes like a rocket. BUT - it shorts the layout whenever it goes over a point. I assume the metal drive wheel on the bottom touches metal.

so my questions are

1. Am I doing something wrong

2. Is it just a case of (very well made) 70s technology meeting incompatible modern track

3. Is there something I can do?



Please be gentle - I don‘t speak technical

 

[Waldgrun]

Hi Greetlander, I feel that to help you a bit more info is required! You state that the loco shorts out when traveling over point work. Is it in one direction only? For if I recall rightly the coupling at one end is live, and if that catches, a short will result! Having read your post once more re the metal drive wheel, I would say this might be the cause. In the early 1970's Triang went from a coarse scale track (Super 4) to a fine scale tracks (System 6) so some models suffered clearance problems,we had a Brush Type 2 Class 31 which sound like it was bumping over sleepers, due to its deep wheel flanges! I would try some tape over the wheel, it will give you an idea if this is the problem, but I not sure it it will help with a cure!

 

[gaymale]

What make of track are you using and what type of points (live frog or plastic)?

The Jinty (47606) was made by Triang from 1960 to 1965. The early Triang ones had very coarse wheels and the first ones were solid between the spokes so you could not see through them. These wheels won't usually go through the frog of many modern points never mind cause short circuits. Some people grind the wheels to make a smaller flange and adjust the back-to-back measurements, or simply change the wheels, to get round the associated problems. It may be the depth of the wheels which is bridging tracks of opposite polarity in which case replacement wheels may be the solution.

Having been given them, I have other Triang locos of similar vintage with similar issues, but keep them purely for loan to friends who display layouts with vintage track at exhibitions (or recent track with simple ovals, no points) rather than spending time and/or money on modifications.

Later, the Jinty was made - still as 47606 - by Triang Hornby (1966-72) and then Hornby Railways 1972-75. I believe the wheel profile on some of these may have improved but I have none to confirm this.

Later ones made by Hornby carried a number other than 47606 and were a newer body and chassis.

 

[Greetlander]

Hi everyone and thanks for the responses.

I realised on closer inspection that at some point after the clean up, the back coupler hook had snapped, and the metal arm was dropping down just enough to hit metal when over the points. I replaced the rear one with the front one and at some point I’ll replace the front. It now clears points with enough speed.

its still a bit juddery but it’s getting there. It’s former owner is delighted and is apparently going to hand over some more Triang, with track, so I may run a separate Triang set up.

I picked up a 2nd hand Lima Class 55 today too for a few dollars. Has the design quality of a house brick but goes like a streak.

It’s been trial and error with the layout. I’m learning. Slowly.

 

[341o2]

What make of track are you using and what type of points (live frog or plastic)?

The Jinty (47606) was made by Triang from 1960 to 1965. The early Triang ones had very coarse wheels and the first ones were solid between the spokes so you could not see through them. These wheels won't usually go through the frog of many modern points never mind cause short circuits. Some people grind the wheels to make a smaller flange and adjust the back-to-back measurements, or simply change the wheels, to get round the associated problems. It may be the depth of the wheels which is bridging tracks of opposite polarity in which case replacement wheels may be the solution.

Having been given them, I have other Triang locos of similar vintage with similar issues, but keep them purely for loan to friends who display layouts with vintage track at exhibitions (or recent track with simple ovals, no points) rather than spending time and/or money on modifications.

Later, the Jinty was made - still as 47606 - by Triang Hornby (1966-72) and then Hornby Railways 1972-75. I believe the wheel profile on some of these may have improved but I have none to confirm this.

Later ones made by Hornby carried a number other than 47606 and were a newer body and chassis.

That reminds me of a picture of a derailed diesel with the caption "Fred's been trying to run his Triang diesel through scale points again. Remember the Wrenn Universal track which would accomodate all wheel profiles?

 

[Greetlander]

Jinty is happy now. I've also now inherited Princess Royal, various carriages and trucks and an American style diesel. The carriages are fine on the track, most of the trucks (a bit of a screwdrivering required) and the engines need TLC. Given that I'd never worked on an engine until six days ago, it's been a learning curve.

There also seems to be a full set of Triang track in the box. People are right, it's great quality stuff.

 

[Cowley]

Jinty is happy now. I've also now inherited Princess Royal, various carriages and trucks and an American style diesel. The carriages are fine on the track, most of the trucks (a bit of a screwdrivering required) and the engines need TLC. Given that I'd never worked on an engine until six days ago, it's been a learning curve.

There also seems to be a full set of Triang track in the box. People are right, it's great quality stuff.

Glad that you got it working Greenlander. May I also suggest (if you haven’t already) purchasing a spray can of switch cleaner from Screwfix, Toolstation or somewhere similar?
WD40 do a contact cleaner for around £6 a can, I find that it works wonders on older models that can be a bit stuttering over pointwork etc...