Here's a story that was first published in the English Illustrated Magazine in August 1893, and reprinted in the May/June 1944 issue of the Railway Magazine (from whence I copy it):
(Pictures are photographed on my phone and uploaded directly, forgive the lack of editing)
When the Circle was Steam Operated
By the courtesy of Mr. Powell, Manager of the District Railway, I was provided with an "engine-pass"for the "Inner Circle"; and on a bright June morning I made my way to St. James's Park Station. There I met Chief-Inspector Exall, who was detailed to accompany and look after me generally. The train selected was a District "down" one. "Down," by the way, signifies up to the Mansion House; the explanation of this apparent paradox being that the norther part of the "Circle" was opened first. In those days the line was only some 3 1/2 miles long, and yet cost over a million pounds to construct.
In a short time our train rushed into the station, and a moment later we had boarded the engine. I was accommodated with a position near the left-hand tank, whence I could get an uninterrupted view ahead; but it has its drawbacks as the water in that tank was hot. No time is wasted at stations on the Underground, and a minute later the train was off - off into a black wall ahead with the shrieking of ten thousand demons rising above the thunder of the wheels. The sensation altogether was much like the inhalation of gas preparatory to having a tooth drawn. I would have given a good deal to have waited just a minute or so longer. Visions of accidents, collisions, and crumbling tunnels floated through my mind; a fierce wind took away my breath, and innumerable blacks [smuts] filled my eyes. I crouched low and held on like grim death to a little rail near me. Driver, stoker, inspector, and engine - all had vanished. Before and behind, and on either side was blackness, heavy, dense, and impenetrable.
Westminster Bridge, Charing Cross and the Temple were passed before I could do or think of anything beyond holding on to that rolling, rushing engine; then finding that I was still alive and sound, I began to look about me. Inspector Exall put his head to my ear and shouted something at the top of his voice, but I could only catch the word "Blackfriars." I looked ahead. Far off in the distance was a small square-shaped hole, seemingly high up in the air, and from it came four silver threads palpitating like gossamers in the morning breeze. Larger and larger grew the hole, the threads become rails, and the hole a station; Blackfriars, with rays of golden sunlight piercing through the gloom.
Off again, a fierce light now trailing behind us from the open furnace door, lighting up the fireman as he shovelled more coal on the furnace, throwing great shadows into the air, and revealing overhead a low creamy roof with black lines upon it that seemed to chase and follow us. Ever and anon the guard's face could be dimly seen at his window, more like a ghost than a man; while in the glass of the look-out holes were reflected the forms of engine-men, like spirits of the tunnel mocking us from the black pit into which we were plunging. Then again we would seem to stop, and to fall down, down, with always the wild shrieking surge and ceaseless clatter of the iron wheels.
Soon ahead of us gleamed pillars of crimson stars, the signal lights of the Mansion House. Between this station and Mark Lane there is nothing particularly noticeable, saving the approach to the latter; where ghostly-looking figures paced a hidden platform across which fell great golden beams that looked like impassable barriers. Yet, ere one could take a second glance, the beams were riven asunder and a black engine blotted them out with clouds of writhing steam.
Next to Mark Lane, and almost close to it, is the old Tower Station,* now disused. We sped past its deserted platforms and limp signal posts, and a few minutes later steamed into the central station, Aldgate. The fireman at once leapt off the engine and made the necessary arrangements for filling our water tanks. So quickly was this done that probably none of the passengers noticed any difference in the length of the stoppage, and in a very short while we were off again into the tunnels, two minutes sufficing to bring us round a sharp curve into Bishopsgate.
*[Tower of London Station was opened on September 25, 1882, as the terminus of a short Metropolitan Railway branch from Aldgate. It was closed on the evening of October 12, 1884, a week after the completion of the Inner Circle.]
*[Bishopsgate Station on the Metropolitan Railway was renamed Liverpool Street on November 1, 1909]
Aldersgate, the next station, was opened in 1865, and for many years it was comparatively deserted by passengers. The opening of the markets hard by has altered all this, and it is now one of the principal stations on the line. All about this section we encountered other lines which sometime dived under us, at other times merely diverged in various directions. Outside Aldersgate the line is ventilated by a series of arches, which give a fine effect of light and shade, making the tunnel look like an old time dungeon.
From Farringdon Street to Kings Cross is the longest stretch without a station, and the driver here gave us an exhibition of full speed, and No. 18 came into King's Cross at the rate of some 40 m.p.h. The average speed of trains between one station and another is from 20 to 25 m.p.h.
The road now began to be more uphill, and at the same time the air grew more foul. From King's Cross to Edgware Road the ventilation is defective, and the atmosphere on a par with the " 'tween decks, forrud" of a modern ironclad in bad weather, and that is saying a good deal. By the time we reached Gower Street* I was coughing and spluttering like a boy with his first cigar. "It is a little unpleasant when you ain't used to it," said the driver with the composure born of long usage, "but you ought to come on a hot summer's day to get the real thing!" Fog on the underground appears to cause less inconvenience than do sultry days of July; then the atmosphere is killing. With the exception of this one section (between Kings Cross and Edgware Road) I found the air far purer than I had expected, and the bad air so much complained of by the "sewer-rates" - as those who habitually use this circle are called in "the City" - is due in a great measure to their almost universal habit of keeping all the windows and ventilators closed.
The finest bit of scenery on the underground is the Baker Street Junction, where a second tunnel leading to the St. John's Wood line branches out of the main one. It is no longer used for through trains, however, owing to a fearful accident that occurred here some time ago,* and Baker Street is now the terminus of that line. On the left through the main tunnel lies the station, a medley in crimson and gold; on the right the daylight creeps in, and the picture is a harmony in blue and silver. It is a novel and unexpected sight to see the ordinary black coat of respectability look crimson, as it does when seen after the intense blackness of the tunnel. But like all the other scenes, this was brief and momentary; then a dream of the past. There is a similar and much-used junction before Praed Street, but it is provided with a big signal box where the tunnels meet.**
*[The St. John's Wood Railway was opened on April 13, 1868, but the through service to Moorgate Street ceased on March 8, 1869. It was resumed on July 1, 1909, over a single-line connection. The new double-line junction at Bake Street was brought into use on November 4, 1912.]
**[There was, however, a collision at Praed Street Junction in February 18, 1891]