I travelled Belgrade-Vienna this week in a MAV 1st class coach (EC344 Avala, a train of just 3 coaches for the whole run).
I had a compartment to myself as far as Budapest, and the aircon worked which was the crucial facility.
But the notional wifi and power sockets didn't. No hint of any extras, of course.
While I'm here, some notes on the journey.
As a senior, and therefore with "free" (2nd class) travel in Hungary, I thought I would be clever with the ticketing.
I bought the Kelebia-Budapest-Gyor sector as a domestic e-ticket (€6), and a regular Gyor-Vienna Sparpreis ticket (€19) online from MAV.
The booking engine was quite happy to book me on the EC service, with appropriate supplements.
That left the Belgrade-Kelebia section, which I bought over the counter at Belgrade for €19.
So €44 for the whole trip rather than the €105 through 1st class fare quoted by Serbian Railways if I'd picked this up in Belgrade.
No problem until Subotica, where MAV staff took over the train.
I was told my ticket combination was not valid for an international journey (though perfectly valid individually), and a new ticket of €52 was needed.
But then a "Plan B" was mentioned. If I paid €20 cash, no questions asked, and no new ticket needed.
I just had to re-present the domestic MAV ticket and not the cross-border ones, to the same conductor in Hungary!
So at Kelebia the same conductor scanned my ticket without batting an eyelid. Lots of smiles all round.
I think the term for this is backsheesh!
Loads of Hungarian police and customs at Kelebia, plenty of guns on display, and the customs guys had ladders and torches for searching the coach roof spaces.
It felt just like the Iron Curtain border between East and West Germany, circa 1980.
Belgrade station seemed on it's last legs by the way.
Completely unkempt, grass growing right into the station, seemingly a 5km/h speed limit for a long way out.
Can't be long before the railway is evicted to Beograd Centar, a new station (with new bridge over the Sava) but a long way from the city centre.
The new bridge over the Danube in Novi Sad was in use.
A new route is under construction from Stara Pazova (where the Zagreb/Novi Sad lines diverge) to Novi Sad, with double track and new tunnels.
But the general standard of infrastructure in Serbia is very poor, with long stretches of 60-70km/h running.