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53 hours in Chicago

citycat

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This trip report is a follow up to my Chicago advice thread in the international section, and is about my 53 hours spent in Chicago, riding the Metra surburban trains and the CTA subway and buses during my visit while my flight attendant wife attended a course for her airline in the Willis Tower. Luckily, due to my wife's job, I get the perk of free airline travel so it was worthwhile for me to make the long trip from Europe for such a short visit. Hopefully, other people may find some of the information useful.

Day One

Leaving my home in the Netherlands, my wife and I took an NS Sprinter service to Biljmer Arena and then changed onto a double decker VIRM service to Schipol airport. At Schipol, we boarded United airlines flight 908 to Chicago O'Hare airport, a Boeing 787 Dreamliner, tail number N27908 for the flight to Chicago, arriving approximately 12:55.

After passing through immigration and customs, we made our way to the CTA subway station for the Blue line to downtown Chicago. Following research and advice, we found that the best ticket to buy is the CTA day pass at a cost of $5.00. It gives unlimited travel on all subway lines and PACE buses in the Chicago and outer areas until 03:00 the next day. We bought the disposable paper ticket from the vending machine. Although the vending process is easy, the machine didn't like the first card that we put in so we had to try another which it accepted. So, my advice is to bring several credit or debit cards if coming from Europe and don't just rely on one card. Also, you must put in an American zip code of where you are going to stay to complete the purchase.

We boarded the Blue line subway and got off at Clarke/Lake station in downtown for the ten minute walk to the hotel next to the Chicago river and the TRUMP building. The subway into Chicago is very easy and it was interesting to see the subway cars and elevated section of track that I've seen in various films like Planes, Trains and Automobiles, or The Blues Brothers . The rest of the day was spent taking it easy, going out to have dinner, and then my wife studying in preparation for her course the next day.

Day Two

My wife headed off to her course in the Willis Tower while I decided to spend the day on the trains. I started by taking the river walk along the Chicago river to Union station about 30 minutes walk away. The walk was very pleasant and I had really struck lucky with the weather. It was not colder than Europe and it was a nice sunny day. The staff at the hotel told me it was usually much colder at this time of year but a warm front had blown in and it was much milder.

As stated, it was a very pleasant river walk with some nice bridges across the river and subway trains rattling overhead at one point. I turned a corner and there was the grand outer facade of Union station. Now, this is a very strange station. In its centre, it has a very grand hall and concourse, similar to Grand Central station in New York. The hall is very majestic and beautiful with the obligatory large American flag hanging down. However, the entrances to the platforms and the platforms themselves are like the Black Hole of Calcutta. Birmingham New Street station is like a floodlit arena compared to the platform areas of Union station. No offense to any Americans reading this. It's just a strange paradox to the Grand hall of the station upstairs.

After some searching, I found the vending machines of the Metra commuter railroad system serving the outer areas of Chicago beyond the CTA. Now, the best ticket to buy is once again the day pass giving unlimited rides all over the Metra network. It costs $13.50 and I think it is a bargain price for how many miles you could potentially clock up if you started early enough to cover as many of the commuter routes as possible. You could even cross into another state, Wisconsin, if you ventured out to Kenosha. However, I had started late, having decided to just ride the BNSF line out to Aurora, so having purchased the day pass which was just a paper ticket, I headed off to find the 11:33 departure to Aurora.

Passing through the double sliding doors, I was met with the red and white striped rear of the double decker stainless steel commuter cars of the Metra system, and the famous dark platforms of Union station that I had heard all about. The commuter trains are quite unique to look at, with ribbed sides and narrow green windows. I think they were manufactured by the Budd company but please correct me if I am wrong. There are plenty of youtube videos of the BNSF line for you to see these commuter trains.

As I walked to the front of the train, I could hear this massive diesel engine noise (music to my ears) echoing around the underground platforms and could see this white cloud of diesel fumes. The sound was great as I drew level with the locomotive. Now, I am not an expert on American locomotives but I believe this loco was an F40PH, number 182 Village of Elmwood Park. As I walked ahead of it and turned, the engineer switched on the headlight and it illuminated brightly into the dark. I spent several minutes just wallowing in the sound of this diesel engine. It was great. I then boarded the second commuter car from the front, the first being out of service. Again, you need to watch online videos to show the layout of the carriage. Simply Railway on youtube has done one. Downstairs is a pair of seats on each side, upstairs is a single seats on each side with some sideways facing tip down seats. In the middle is a walkway where you store luggage and where you hand down your ticket for inspection when the conductor walks through the lower section of the carriage.

The train departed on time at 11:33 and emerged into bright sunshine where there were various yards for storage of Amtrak and Metra trains awaiting their next turn of service or being maintained. It was interesting seeing the BNSF route, first the dense suburbs of Chicago and then the outer suburbs where the houses gradually got larger. It was also interesting that the train was longer than a lot of the platforms so the loco and first few coaches would block the road crossing and drivers would have to wait while the train completed its stop, the bells of the crossing dinging and the lights flashing. The bell on the locomotive would also be ringing and then a sound on the horn would signal its departure. So, quite impressive noises each time an American train arrives and departs a station. I was also amazed how open access the track is. Many gardens belonging to houses were level with the track and with no fencing. You certainly couldn't leave small children or pets unattended in these gardens for fear of them wandering onto the track.

12:50 saw our arrival into the terminus of Aurora. During the 15 minute turn around, I wandered into the station building. It was very clean and tidy and had a little exhibition of rail road workers from back in the day when the line was being built. We left again at 13:05 and I took the same train back as far as Naperville. Now, the main trains that I wanted to see were the westbound Amtrak operated South West Chief from Chicago to Los Angeles, and the westbound California Zephyr from Chicago to Emeryville (for San Francisco). I also wanted to see the eastbound services of both these trains if they weren't heavily delayed from the west. Naperville was the first scheduled stop for the westbound services, and the last stop for the eastbound. I worked out that if I stayed from 13:15 to 15:47, I would potentially see all four trains.

Now, as it worked out, I had to stay longer at Naperville until 16:28, just over three hours. The eastbound South West Chief arrived dead on time from Los Angeles at 14:00, but the eastbound Zephyr was delayed several hours. And surprisingly, the Chief and Zephyr were also delayed by one hour leaving Chicago just up the line. However, as I had travelled several thousand miles from the Netherlands to see these trains, I just had to suck up the delay. As it happens, Naperville was a very pleasant station to while away the time. The station building was very nice and warm with a little exhibition case stating that the town was twinned with Nitra in Slovakia, and the Station Master/Ticket Clerk/Despatcher was happy to keep me informed when something interesting was coming through.

As already stated, the eastbound South West Chief was the first through at 14:00. You could see the locomotive headlight shining in the distance but it was still about four minutes before it actually arrived. I am no expert, but I believe the twin locomotives pulling this train are GE Genesis locomotives. The locos in charge of this particular service were 176 and 144 hauling several Dreamliner cars and a baggage car. , It's very impressive when an American train pulls in, what with all the bells and horn sounding.

I still had 90 minutes or so to wait for the westbound services so I had a quick walk around town. Later, the Station Master gave me the heads up about two westbound freights that would be coming through. The first had two BNSF locos at the head of the consist hauling 100 plus mixed wagons. The second freight had three BNSF locos at the front, 100 plus wagons with mostly double stacked containers, and then two more BNSF locos pushing from the rear. Very impressive.

At Naperville , the westbound California Zephyr arrived first. GE Genesis locos 158 and 5 at the head of the consist, the locomotive bell announcing its arrival. After it left, the westbound South West Chief arrived five minutes behind it, GE Genesis locos 194 and 69 hauling the consist. To someone like me who lives in the Netherlands and hardly encounters any diesels on the NS, or has to remember the dwindling diesel locomotives back in the UK, the sound of these GE Genesis locos was music to my ears as they waited time.

After the Chief departed, it was time to head back towards Chicago. First of all, I wanted a drink. I got the next Metra train down the line to a town called Brookfield, propelled by one of the newer EMD locomotives I believe. Brookfield, apart from being a cute looking town and having a cute looking station, also had an Irish Pub next to the tracks, The Irish Times, which had been recommended by a fellow poster on Rail UK Forums. When the very pleasant barmaid found out that I had travelled all the way from the Netherlands to drink in this pub, she gave me the beer on the house which was very nice of her. I stayed 30 minutes to have my very welcome beer before strolling one minute back to the station to catch the next train back to Union station. By this time the sun was going down and this made for some very nice sunset photos over the tracks.

Arriving back at Union, I enjoyed another riverside walk back to the hotel, this time with all the skyscrapers lit up beautifully against the dark sky making for a very nice Chicago skyline. It was a very enjoyable day on the Metra system and I just wish I had had more time to explore the rest of the network. I will definitely do so on a future visit.

I will post a part two to the trip report detailing my ride on the CTA subway and buses.
 
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43096

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Thanks for posting that!

I'd be interested to know if you see (or indeed travel behind) any of Metra's new SD70MACH locos - they are converted former SD70MAC freight locos and numbered upwards from 500.
 

Taunton

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Just for detail, the Metra passengers cars, known as Gallery Cars, were indeed originally done by Budd for the Chicago Burlington & Quincy Railroad, from the mid-1950s, but the design has been built since by a range of others, the other onetime mainstream USA builders like Pullman (in Chicago), and after Budd went out of business in 1980 by others including from Japan. The other independent Chicago commuter lines had also standardised on this design, and they are all now rolled into one large Metra fleet The cars have different amounts of the old Budd trademark of horizontal stainless steel fluting, progressively less the newer they are, which was a Budd patent, but you have to be a bit of a geek to identify a 1950s one from a new one.

It was long a Chicago-unique layout, but some are elsewhere now. I've never felt their limited amount of upper deck seating (compared to other designs) is worth all the effort of building a double decker.

Even more off topic, but always tip a USA bar server $1 or $2, in cash, even if the drink is complimentary. or someone else buys it for you. Just one of those USA things.
 
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citycat

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Thanks for posting that!

I'd be interested to know if you see (or indeed travel behind) any of Metra's new SD70MACH locos - they are converted former SD70MAC freight locos and numbered upwards from 500.
Yes, I would have loved to see one of those locos if I’d had more time. They look very smart in the Metra livery. Next time hopefully.
 

citycat

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Even more off topic, but always tip a USA bar server $1 or $2, in cash, even if the drink is complimentary. or someone else buys it for you. Just one of those USA things.
I didn’t have any cash on me, but I did give her a tip in the form of telling her that United airlines is doing a big recruitment drive, and that she should get an application in. She seemed very interested in that piece of news so hopefully that made up for the lack of a cash tip.
 

ac6000cw

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As already stated, the eastbound South West Chief was the first through at 14:00. You could see the locomotive headlight shining in the distance but it was still about four minutes before it actually arrived.
Yes, the BNSF (ex-CB&Q) 'Racetrack' is very straight for miles in places.

I am no expert, but I believe the twin locomotives pulling this train are GE Genesis locomotives. The locos in charge of this particular service were 176 and 144 hauling several Dreamliner cars and a baggage car.
Correct for the locos (also known as 'P42'). The double-deck long distance cars are Superliners, built by Pullman-Standard (mk1, late 1970s) and Bombardier (mk2, early 1990s).

Incidentally, the Genesis locos and the mk1 Superliners both ride on German bogies ('trucks' in the US), and I think the Genesis monocoque bodyshell was designed in Germany.

Sounds like you had a good introduction to the essence of US railroading :) (Chicago was the first place I ever visited in the US, so my introduction to it as well).
 
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43096

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Incidentally, the Genesis locos and the mk1 Superliners both ride on German bogies ('trucks' in the US), and I think the Genesis monocoque bodyshell was designed in Germany.
Yes, the trucks were designed and built by Krupp. They may well have had an input on the monocoque as well, although the external styling was done by Cesar Vergara.
Sounds like you had a good introduction to the essence of US railroading :) (Chicago was the first place I ever visited in the US, so my introduction to it as well).
It’s a good place to start, certainly. I’m back in the US in October covering Boston/Chicago/Washington DC/New York. I’m hoping the Lake Shore Limited and Cardinal are still P42 worked by then… Definite preference here for 7FDL powered traction!
 

ac6000cw

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They may well have had an input on the monocoque as well, although the external styling was done by Cesar Vergara.
According to a feature article in the September 1993 Trains magazine, the monocoque bodyshell was a joint Krupp & GE project as GE didn't have the design experience to do it themselves (the first 10 shells were built in Germany, the remainder by GE at Erie, PA), with Cesar Vergara involved as well (as you said).

And of course their Siemens 'Charger' successors are even more Germanic (and EMD F125's somewhat Spanish).

I’m back in the US in October covering Boston/Chicago/Washington DC/New York. I’m hoping the Lake Shore Limited and Cardinal are still P42 worked by then…
Yes, I think the Genesis are now in the "catch 'em while you still can" category.

Definite preference here for 7FDL powered traction!
No, really? :D;)

(Mind you, the pair of NS SD70ACe notching up out of Welch, WV heading a coal train in my recent 'Railfanning in the Rain' video sound pretty good too, with a pair of ES44AC shoving hard on the rear, attacking the climb to Elkhorn Tunnel in pouring rain...)
 

43096

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Yes, I think the Genesis are now in the "catch 'em while you still can" category.
Definitely. At least the Hudson line out of Grand Central will still have V12 FDLs when I'm there.
No, really? :D;)
:lol: :lol: :lol:
(Mind you, the pair of NS SD70ACe notching up out of Welch, WV heading a coal train in my recent 'Railfanning in the Rain' video sound pretty good too, with a pair of ES44AC shoving hard on the rear, attacking the climb to Elkhorn Tunnel in pouring rain...)
Heads off to YouTube...:arrow:

You must have got soaked - was absolutely lashing it down.

To be honest, there is something mighty impressive about a big diesel working hard. Plenty of Dash 9 action in that video, too, including a NS "standard cab" version - all gone now as they were early members of the NS AC44C6M programme.
 

citycat

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Yes, I think the Genesis are now in the "catch 'em while you still can" category.
According to my former UK colleague who is driving the Zephyr out of Emeryville these days, 816 was recently written off in a road crossing accident near Denver, so that’s one less Genesis in operation.
 
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Jamesrob637

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Dreamliner cars are interesting. I've heard of Superliner, but are Dreamliner the night version?
 

ac6000cw

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Dreamliner cars are interesting. I've heard of Superliner, but are Dreamliner the night version?
No - they are Superliner sleepers.

Amtrak doesn't own any passenger cars called Dreamliner - it currently owns Superliner, Viewliner, Surfliner, Metroliner (just a small number of cab control cars), Amfleet and Horizon cars (all loco-hauled), plus the Acela Express and Avelia Liberty high-speed trainsets. The Superliner and Surfliner cars are double-deck, the others single-deck.

There are other types of car that Amtrak operates in certain areas but which are owned by various states.
 

citycat

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Dreamliner cars are interesting. I've heard of Superliner, but are Dreamliner the

No - they are Superliner sleepers.

Amtrak doesn't own any passenger cars called Dreamliner - it currently owns Superliner, Viewliner, Surfliner, Metroliner (just a small number of cab control cars), Amfleet and Horizon cars (all loco-hauled), plus the Acela Express and Avelia Liberty high-speed trainsets. The Superliner and Surfliner cars are double-deck, the others single-deck.

There are other types of car that Amtrak operates in certain areas but which are owned by various states.

My mistake. Anyway, that’s my suggestion for a name should they build any new sleeper carriages for Amtrak.
 

Jamesrob637

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No don't call them Dreamliner, please - the wheels might fall off and the batteries fry :D
 

ac6000cw

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No don't call them Dreamliner, please - the wheels might fall off and the batteries fry :D
Between Amtrak and their host freight railroads, they could probably manage worse than that (without any help from Boeing) :D

But if Amtrak could live up to it, 'Dreamliner' sounds good to me...
 

citycat

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Between Amtrak and their host freight railroads, they could probably manage worse than that (without any help from Boeing) :D

But if Amtrak could live up to it, 'Dreamliner' sounds good to me...

Aaah, that's why I got Dreamliner in my head. I flew over on a 787 Dreamliner. Sorry Amtrak, wrong company. :D
 

citycat

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Day Three

This was my last day in Chicago as I was flying out that evening back to the flatlands. I don't know if anyone has watched the Christmas movie Home Alone, but my kids like this film. Knowing that the famous house belonging to the fictional McAllister family and where Kevin set his traps for the Wet Bandits was located in the Chicago area, I decided to try and find it. Research told me it was located in Winnetka, 17 miles north of downtown.

Bidding farewell to my wife who had two more days on her course to complete and who I wouldn't see again until she returned home, I set off on my trek to find the house so I could get some photos and video to show the kids. It would also give me a chance to try out the buses and some of the subway.

I walked to Lake station which is on the elevated loop section to buy one of the Ventra day passes for $5.00. Once again, I had trouble getting the machine to accept my UK bank issued cards (it didn't want anything to do at all with my Dutch Maestro pinpass). It took several goes before the machine finally got bored of denying me and decided to issue the pass. So remember people, bring several bank cards with you if you are coming from Europe.

I then walked three minutes to the bus stop in Michigan avenue to get the 147 bus, direction of Howard subway station. The bus turned up on time in the form of a bendy bus, and was nice and warm inside. Google said that the journey would take about 38 minutes and the bus was labelled the Lake Shore Express which it was. After serving the first few stops in downtown, it reached the shore of Lake Michigan and turned into an Express. Unfortunately, the morning had started cold and misty and much of the lake was shrouded in fog, otherwise there would've been some good views from the bus window. After the lake shore, the bus went through some suburbs and it was interesting to get out of downtown Chicago and see the actual suburbs of the city.

The bus eventually arrived at the small bus station serving Howard CTA subway station where I had to change onto the 213 Pace bus towards Highland Park Metra station. I had some time before the bus left so decided to have a walk around. Turning a corner, it was just my luck to run right into a bunch of about six youths in Puffa jackets just standing and chatting on the pavement totally blocking it. I tried to remember which end of the Red line someone had said that area was supposed to be sketchy. I had deliberately dressed down trying not to look like a tourist, and just had a back pack with an extra sweater and some water in, but it was more my phone I was concerned about. However, it was too late to turn around and lose face, so I had to commit to going through them without looking like I was doing a runner. I did the European thing of straightening my back with my arms in my pockets and trying to have a 'don't mess with me' expression on my face. However, the guys just parted and carried on with their conversation without giving me a second glance. A case of maybe wrongly judging a book by its cover. Sorry young guys of Howard.

I walked a bit further but there was nothing of interest to see. All the streets seemed deserted at 11am. I went back to the bus station via a different route and boarded the 213 bus, the day pass activating the ticket machines on both buses just fine. We headed off again further into the suburbs with houses seeming to get a bit bigger. So many houses located on wide streets and being detached with double garages which would be a luxury in most of Europe. By this time, the list had lifted and it turned into another sunny mild day. With no access to wifi, I had to look for the stops carefully as I didn't have google maps to assist me, but the bus auto announcer was very good and I got off at the right stop. For anybody who wants to find the Home Alone house, you get off at Green Bay Road and Pine Street, and walk three minutes along Pine Street and turn left onto Lincoln avenue. The house is situated at 671 Lincoln Avenue, Winnetka.

After five minutes of discreetly taking photos, unlike the two girls after me who brazenly set up a tripod with video camera and proceeded to record a Tiktok video, I returned to the bus stop. The bus was next to the Metra Union Pacific North line and I was hoping to hear a diesel approaching in the distance, but nothing came past before the bus arrived. We headed back towards Howard station and at one point we stopped to let a senior lady on with a mobility scooter. It was interesting to note that the driver had to climb out of his cab, lift up five tilting seats to allow access to the disabled area, and then had to spend two minutes attaching various bus straps to anchor points and to the scooter to prevent it moving. It was quite a process and would be hard to carry out on a crowded bus.

We arrived back at Howard CTA station and I went through the gates and upstairs to the platforms of the Red Line to head back to downtown. It was interesting to ride the subway and see the dense suburbs. Also, it was interesting to see the famous Wrigley Field stadium out of the window, home to the Chicago Cubs. At Fullerton station, I changed to the Brown line to ride the famous loop section of the elevated subway. I was in the first car so could get a drivers eye view of the line ahead. As other posters have stated, the loop is a must do when in Chicago, and it is very interesting to ride between the buildings of the city and look down at the streets and into the back yards of various apartments. I popped my head out at Quincy station and saw that the station is indeed styled on a station from the 1860's. It was also interesting to see La Salle/Van Buren station which features in the Planes, Trains and Automobiles movie.

However, time was moving on and I had to start heading to the airport. I just had time to grab an Orange Chicken with noodles meal from Panda Express, eat it back in the hotel room, leave a note for my wife and then grab my bag and catch the Blue line subway back to O'Hare airport from Lake/Clarke station, catching one more view of the elevated subway trains above my head. As I was getting close to O'Hare, I saw that I was the only one left in the subway car as it entered the tunnels. I also noted that one of the windows slid down next to one of the unoccupied driving cabs, so I decided to throw caution to the wind and lean out of the window in a subway tunnel while looking out for approaching obstructions. It was quite a ride which I would have paid money at an amusement park to experience. Unfortunately, a member of platform staff at O'Hare airport spotted me hanging out of the window as we emerged from the tunnels and started shouting at me, so I had to make a swift exit from the train before he caught up with me. :D

Passing through security, I had to take the tunnel with the moving walkways and which has a neon light show above your head. It connects the C and D gates I believe. The tunnel features in a music video by Puff Daddy called I'll be missing you. If you google the video on youtube, you'll see the tunnel and the lights I'm talking about, one minute into the video.

I later boarded United airlines flight UA909 to take me back to Amsterdam, which I noted again was Boeing 787 Dreamliner tail number N27908 which I had flown over with a couple of days previously. And that, was the end of my 53 hours in Chicago.

I hope the report wasn't too long and some of you found it interesting or useful. Just wish I'd had longer to explore the Metra system and ride more of the subway. Hopefully next time. And the Ventra and Metra day passes at $5.00 and $13.50 respectively are definitely the tickets to get for hassle free travel around Chicago and its suburbs.
 
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87electric

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Great pics from a great trip, if only a few days long. I like riding the L. I had a thoroughly enjoyable trip of the South West Chief myself a few years back. Chicago is enticing me again now.
 

ac6000cw

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Very nice photos - thanks for those :smile:.

I think Metra has the largest F40 fleet left on the planet (117 locos), with the oldest about 47 years old (although all rebuilt at various times).

AFAIK most of them retain the original Head-End-Power (HEP) generation system, involving the prime mover running at full '8th notch' RPM all the time (to provide the required 60Hz 480V 3-phase supply to the train).

Chicago is enticing me again now.
You're not the only one...it's been 18 years since my last visit.
 

citycat

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AFAIK most of them retain the original Head-End-Power (HEP) generation system, involving the prime mover running at full '8th notch' RPM all the time (to provide the required 60Hz 480V 3-phase supply to the train).

That’s why I was wallowing in the sound of the F40 for several minutes as it idled at full revs, and the din echoed around the underground cavern at Union station.
 

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