Uzbekistan

[OLJR]

Has anybody taken the train from Tashkent to Samarkand and Bukhara? If so, what was it like and how easy was it to do?

I shall be in Uzbekistan later this year and am considering extending my trip to visit these destinations by rail.

 

[stut]

Yes, I did the overnight train from Tashkent to Bukhara - this would have been a few years ago (2005) but I'm not sure much has changed.

Had to book the tickets at the foreigners' ticket desk in Tashkent, which had moved to an office opposite the main station, unknown to any guidebook. Booking was easy enough, but try to get some key Russian words (today, tomorrow, the names of the classes, etc).

The station itself had the standard array of snack stalls. Do bring some food and drink with you even if it's a late departure - it's a sociable thing to do to be able to share it out.

Carriages were standard ex-Soviet style, although in better condition, and with better bits and pieces (snack boxes, blankets, etc) than my experience in Russia. I opted for 2nd class (kupe), which is a 4-person lockable compartment. I'd done 3rd (platskartny) for a 35-hour journey in Russia before, and think that was an experience that was best suited to my younger years. 1st is just a posh 2nd.

The people in the carriage were incredibly friendly and chatty, despite the lack of a fluent common language (my Russian is very limited, but bits of English, French and German do strike a chord). Do share food and drink, and do accept offers to do so (you can quite easily refuse alcohol here - it is a country with a strong Muslim presence).

The ride is pretty good, and I slept well. The compartments are comfortable - decent bed space, and loads of secure luggage storage (under the bottom bunks, and over the corridor). Plenty tea available from the attendant.

Bukhara station is some distance from the city (deliberately so), and you get an array of knackered Volgas meeting you, persuading you to take them. You have little chance of figuring out the buses, or indeed of leaping on one in time, if it's anything like my visit. If you are doing the overnight in this direction, let the hotel know you're arriving early - they seem to be particularly accommodating. Alternatively, head for the ancient Turkish baths - that's quite a way to refresh yourself after a long journey!

Didn't get a chance to do the day trains, but they sound like a pretty decent ride too - especially the new Afrosiyob trains.

Both Bukhara and Samarkand are 100% worth the effort. Bukhara is like stepping back in time to when this region was the centre of the world, and the Registan in Samarkand is simply breathtaking.

Have a wonderful trip!

 

[davetheguard]

Well, I took the 17.00 Talgo train from Samarkand to Tashkent about a month ago, which took 2 hours 10 minutes and was on time. But I was on an organised small group (15) tour of Uzbekistan, so I can't comment on how easy ticket purchase etc. is.

You have to arrive at the station in good time: we were there about 40 minutes before departure. You may have to show your passport just to get in the station building, although we were waved through. Then there's a bag scan. We were able to get on board about 25 minutes before we left.

The Talgo was modern, clean, and reasonably comfortable, but the ride was a bit like a nodding donkey, for the same reason: no bogies! The train was divided in to three classes and had a buffet car. We were in the middle class and were given a complimentary wrap-style sandwich and (very small) green tea in a paper cup.

On train displays give the current speed and we briefly hit 220 kph. By the way, photography is not officially permitted at stations.

We passed a number of "ordinary" loco-hauled passenger trains in sidings and on the main line, these looked to my untrained eye as older Soviet-era stock with compartments.

We also had a couple of trips on the Tashkent Metro (underground) - there are three lines and you buy a "jetton" (like a small coin) valid for one journey (including changes) at the ticket office before travel. The ticket office usually consists of a lady sitting inside a large box with wrap-round glass windows, furnished with net curtains and plastic flowers. Once again, no photos allowed, and they are supposedly quite hot on this on the metro.

One thing you will find, once you get past the petty officialdom, is that people are extremely friendly and curious of foreigners. It won't be long before people want to talk to you, and it's also very safe to do so, but probably better to avoid politics, as you never know who is listening. You'll also find that lots of people will want to take pictures of you with their friends!

We had a lovely time in the country and particularly liked the small walled desert oasis town of Khiva: there's no station but it's only a 40 minute taxi ride (or, I think there's a trolley-bus) from Urgench station.

As ever, the Man in Seat61 is a good guide, with information & pictures.