Class 319 powering up procedure.

[Big George]

Hi, can anybody with 319 knowledge tell me the correct powering up procedure i.e. certain notches at certain speeds when pulling away please?

Also, if wheelslip is encountered, to prevent traction motor lock-outs, do drivers need to shut off completely to zero before reapplying power or just notch back a notch or two until traction is gained?

Thanks in advance! ☺️

 

[Class15]

Hi, can anybody with 319 knowledge tell me the correct powering up procedure i.e. certain notches at certain speeds when pulling away please?

Also, if wheelslip is encountered, to prevent traction motor lock-outs, do drivers need to shut off completely to zero before reapplying power or just notch back a notch or two until traction is gained?

Thanks in advance! ☺️

Sorry I’m not at all knowledgeable on the subject.

I think, if a wheelslip is occurred, the power is shut off completely, but I could be wrong.

Hope this helps a bit!

 

[ComUtoR]

Hi, can anybody with 319 knowledge tell me the correct powering up procedure i.e. certain notches at certain speeds when pulling away please?

It's been a while but this is what I can remember.

DDS to forward, drop it into brake 1.
Take notch 1 (acts as a holding brake)
Drop the brake
Swing it open

*DDS (Drivers Directional Switch)

Also, if wheelslip is encountered, to prevent traction motor lock-outs, do drivers need to shut off completely to zero before reapplying power or just notch back a notch or two until traction is gained?

Thanks in advance! ☺️

Wheel slip is a matter of skill and experience. There are various techniques to deal with it. They were really &*^*"£!"$¬!! in the rain so you weren't going anywhere anyway

 

[Class15]

Wheel slip is a matter of skill and experience. There are various techniques to deal with it. They were really &*^*"£!"$¬!! in the rain so you weren't going anywhere anyway

Interesting

 

[hexagon789]

Hi, can anybody with 319 knowledge tell me the correct powering up procedure i.e. certain notches at certain speeds when pulling away please?

There isn't exactly a correct procedure, but certain Train Operating Companies may advise their drivers of such. As introduced technique was:

Brake to Step 1
Power to Notch 2
Feel unit wanting to move
Release brake
Give it the beans (Notch 4)

(That was basic technique for all BR EMUs really, though on older camshaft units I believe just going straight to 4 was usual.)

Also, if wheelslip is encountered, to prevent traction motor lock-outs, do drivers need to shut off completely to zero before reapplying power or just notch back a notch or two until traction is gained?

They have WSP (wheelspin protection), so you can theoretically leave the power handle alone (that was the original intention) and allow the system to manage power, however it's not as sophisticated as modern systems - essentially almost completely backing off power, then slowly ramping it back up rather than trying to produce a motor current level the system estimates rail conditions can tolerate based on the amount of slip being experienced. So drivers would normally back off a Notch or two to try and get a more steady, if lower, level of power down as if their is repeated wheelspin progress would probably be quicker by manually restricting power than by leaving it up to the WSP. Ie you might slip repratedly at say 80mph in 4 and struggle to gain more speed, but kick it down to 3 and climb away over 90.

 

[ComUtoR]

There isn't exactly a correct procedure, but certain Train Operating Companies may advise their drivers of such. As introduced technique was:

Brake to Step 1
Power to Notch 2
Feel unit wanting to move
Release brake
Give it the beans (Notch 4)

When I was on 319s you couldn't use notch 2 to pull away as it would roll. It had to be 1. Same with releasing the brake. If you released the brake before taking power the unit had a tendency to roll away. Plenty of roll back incidents with 319s. I'd have to dig my manual out to check if it was written down or anything. They were a real pain in the bottom when trying to couple.

So drivers would normally back off a Notch or two to try and get a more steady, if lower, level of power down as if their is repeated wheelspin progress would probably be quicker by manually restricting power than by leaving it up to the WSP.

One technique I was taught (and mostly stuck to) was just to stick it in 3 and leave it. Constantly notching it, just adds to your workload and it never really seemed to help much. Personally I'm pressing the sander like crazy. (pretty sure they eventually got autosanders but that's pushing my memory a bit so not 100% certain)

Ie you might slip repratedly at say 80mph in 4 and struggle to gain more speed, but kick it down to 3 and climb away over 90.

In a 319.... Maybe on a downhill gradient, with the wind behind you, and the sails out. If the weather was bad then you knew you were going to be late. Got them to 100 on some occasions but you certainly needed a run up.

 

[hexagon789]

In a 319.... Maybe on a downhill gradient, with the wind behind you, and the sails out. If the weather was bad then you knew you were going to be late. Got them to 100 on some occasions but you certainly needed a run up.

The slipping example was taken from this very forum, so I thought it was a good one to use!

 

[ComUtoR]

It's a good example and well explained.

*edit*

Quick quote(s) from my newly found traction manual :

**Leaving the power controller in notch 4 and 'letting her sort herself out' is bad driving technique, can damage the traction motors, and gives a terrible ride in the train.

**Using lower notches to pull away instead of moving quickly to notch 4 will lessen the wheelspin encountered and is good driving practice.

*The control equipment incorporates wheel slip/spin protection (WSP) equipment, which detects wheel slip and counteracts it automatically. It may be necessary to close the power controller and retake power.

*2006 section
**2008 section


I also checked the sander and its listed as a 'smart sander'

== Doublepost prevention - post automatically merged: 26 Apr 2022 ==

I think, if a wheelslip is occurred, the power is shut off completely, but I could be wrong.

From the manual :

If wheelspin is detected on a wheel or wheels, traction power going to the traction motors will be automatically cut on the affected group giving ½ traction power on the unit. When the wheel stops spinning and comes within an acceptable speed range normal traction power will then be gained.

 

[westcoaster]

Each TOC has there own policy on such things. Even between FCC and SE on the shared services each driver drove to their companies policy.

At FCC it was

Brake to Step 1
Power to Notch 2
Feel unit wanting to move
Release brake
Allow the unit to power away to 5mph then apply more power as needed.

In low adhesion I would use notch 2 to 30mph, notch 3 to 50mph then notch 4 higher than 50mph.


Use of the sander,. that was nearly always left for braking (319's liked to slide).

 

[ComUtoR]

Each TOC has there own policy on such things. Even between FCC and SE on the shared services each driver drove to their companies policy.

At FCC it was

My FCC manual says notch 1. Pretty sure the power didn't always engage when using 2 and brake 1. I had an issue at a station with taking power and the discussion with fleet was very much it had to be 1. Many hard and soft reboots later and Fleet did something silly to get it moving......

(319's liked to slide).

Didn't they just !

 

[Big George]

Thank you, all