Ireland trip advice

[Watershed]

I'm looking to travel to Ireland in the next couple of weeks. I've been along the Larne-Belfast, Belfast-Dublin and Dublin-Rosslare lines before, but no more than that.

I would probably go for about 6 days, flying into Belfast on a Tuesday evening and sailing back from Dublin on the Sunday evening. Ideally I'd like to travel on all the lines I haven't been along, but that's probably stretching it for a 6 day trip.

Does anyone have any suggestions for itineraries, places to stay etc. for such a trip? Lines which are particularly scenic etc.? Are there any loco hauled services remaining?

Instinctively I'd have thought the itinerary should be something like this:

Tuesday: Bangor line, stay in Belfast
Wednesday: Derry line and Portrush branch, Enterprise to Dublin, stay in Dublin from here on
Thursday-Sunday: lines out of Dublin Heuston

Thanks.

 

[Gloster]

Although it is a while since I visited Ireland, I would say that the lines that radiate out of Heuston are very similar: almost seen one, seen them all. The southern part of the mainline to Cork and the suburban lines around it amongst the best, as is the Waterford area. But Galway and Westport/Ballina are largely similar to the Cork and Limerick line; Sligo is a bit more interesting, as are bits of the Tralee line. In the Dublin area you have several odd bits of suburban line, of which I have only been to Howth, which is a nice short trip (unless you get stones thrown at you in Kilbarrack).

In the north the North Coast line, including Portrush, is definitely the best bit.

 

[OldandRambling]

Looking forward with interest to replies, to assist my own next Irish jaunt!

 

[JonathanH]

Dublin, stay in Dublin from here on
Thursday-Sunday: lines out of Dublin Heuston

I have stayed a few times at Aspect Hotel Park West on the west side of Dublin which is right on Park West & Cherry Orchard Station and therefore good for an early start on the Heuston Lines without having to pay for Central Dublin prices.

 

[bangor-toad]

Hi there,
The Bangor line doesn't take too long to travel along. Parts of it are quite scenic and other parts closer to Belfast airport and docks have very different feel. The side closest to Belfast Lough is much more interesting than the 'inland' side. Unless you just want to score off doing the track I'd recommend doing it in daylight if possible.

There are quite a few hotels in Belfast to match different budgets. The Europa hotel is nice but on the pricier side. Some of the rooms on the back overlook the railway. There's a Travelodge near to Great Victoria Street station for a cheaper option. Belfast city centre is not that big so you can quite easily walk around and get to or from the various hotels.
If you don't want to look around Belfast and you arrive late Tuesday there's a Premier Inn pretty much opposite Bangor station so you could start from there on the Wednesday morning.

The trip up to Derry and the northwest is great. The bit from Antrim to Coleraine is the least interesting but it gets better as it approaches the coast. Make sure you sit on the right hand side as you travel towards Derry.
If you have time do try to look around Derry and Portrush for a bit. They're very different but both are quite interesting.

A suggestion I often make to visitors is to get an iLink card which covers you for all Translink trains, buses and coaches. This would allow you to get the train from Belfast to Coleraine, shuttle up to Portrush and back, then the train to Derry. You can then get the Goldline coach back to Belfast which takes you over the Glenshae pass which is rather scenic.

The Enterprise service to Dublin is usually loco hauled. Unless it broke - then it's a pair of DMUs. I often marvel at those locos, it seems that paint is holding some of them together!

I hope that's useful to you for NI. I can't help so much for the routes from Dublin.
Have a great trip!
Mr Toad

 

[Gloster]

I just hope you don’t stay in the hotel in Mallow that I used: the only hotel I have ever left by the window. Despite having said I was catching the 08.00 train, there was nobody about and all the doors were locked.

 

[duesselmartin]

I hope it was gound floor.

 

[Gloster]

I hope it was gound floor.

It was the kitchen at the back of the building. Every other downstairs room was locked.

 

[Richard Scott]

Tuesday: Bangor line, stay in Belfast
Wednesday: Derry line and Portrush branch, Enterprise to Dublin, stay in Dublin from here on
Thursday-Sunday: lines out of Dublin Heuston

Thanks.

Most of the Cork trains are loco hauled out of Heuston, not sure how many run now but used to be 5/6 different locos last time I went, which was 2019 but pandemic may mean fewer run currently? All class 201s on loco hauled trains.

 

[Watershed]

Thanks for all the comments. It would be after dark when I land in Bangor so I may defer that trip to the following day (as far as I can see, doing all the NI lines in a day is doable).

Unfortunately the Enterprise service was a DMU when I did it, so it'd be great if it's loco hauled this time.

@danm14 do you have any information on current allocations?

 

[danm14]

Thanks for all the comments. It would be after dark when I land in Bangor so I may defer that trip to the following day (as far as I can see, doing all the NI lines in a day is doable).

Unfortunately the Enterprise service was a DMU when I did it, so it'd be great if it's loco hauled this time.

@danm14 do you have any information on current allocations?

The Enterprise is supposed to return to being operated entirely by the dedicated loco hauled stock tomorrow (with the caveat that allocations are subject to change due to low rail adhesion) but I suspect that's unlikely to happen.

The current (until today) situation was that the following were operated by an Irish Rail Class 22000 (ICR), and the rest were loco hauled:

Mon-Sat: 7:35am and 1:20pm northbound, 10:35am and 4:05pm southbound.

Sunday: 10:05am northbound, 1:05pm southbound

Be aware that the Irish government have reintroduced lockdown restrictions today, and while it didn't happen today, 50% public transport capacity is rumoured to be on the cards.

Given that Northern Ireland simultaneously announced that they were ruling out further restrictions, and the Republic has reintroduced mandatory testing for foreign arrivals, I would expect the Enterprise to be heaving.

Most of the Cork trains are loco hauled out of Heuston, not sure how many run now but used to be 5/6 different locos last time I went, which was 2019 but pandemic may mean fewer run currently? All class 201s on loco hauled trains.

Easiest way to tell is to try and book a first class ticket and pick your own seat. If it's 2+2 it's DMU, 2+1 is loco hauled.

 

[Watershed]

The Enterprise is supposed to return to being operated entirely by the dedicated loco hauled stock tomorrow (with the caveat that allocations are subject to change due to low rail adhesion) but I suspect that's unlikely to happen.

The current (until today) situation was that the following were operated by an Irish Rail Class 22000 (ICR), and the rest were loco hauled:

Mon-Sat: 7:35am and 1:20pm northbound, 10:35am and 4:05pm southbound.

Sunday: 10:05am northbound, 1:05pm southbound

Be aware that the Irish government have reintroduced lockdown restrictions today, and while it didn't happen today, 50% public transport capacity is rumoured to be on the cards.

Given that Northern Ireland simultaneously announced that they were ruling out further restrictions, and the Republic has reintroduced mandatory testing for foreign arrivals, I would expect the Enterprise to be heaving.

That's great, thanks. I'll know to avoid those services! Would you happen to have any gen on Cork etc. allocations?

Would I require seat reservations to travel with my FIP coupons? And if so, how would I best go about obtaining these?

I must remember to book my Covid test

 

[danm14]

That's great, thanks. I'll know to avoid those services! Would you happen to have any gen on Cork etc. allocations?

Would I require seat reservations to travel with my FIP coupons? And if so, how would I best go about obtaining these?

I must remember to book my Covid test

See my edit - try to book a first class ticket online and pick your seat. 2+2 is DMU, 2+1 is loco hauled.

Seat reservations aren't required, but if you want them they're free to book on irishrail.ie. There are no seat reservations at all in Northern Ireland, nor on southbound Enterprise trains (unless you have a return ticket for a journey where the outward leg started in the Republic)

 

[Watershed]

See my edit - try to book a first class ticket online and pick your seat. 2+2 is DMU, 2+1 is loco hauled.

Seat reservations aren't required, but if you want them they're free to book on irishrail.ie. There are no seat reservations on southbound Enterprise trains.

Thanks!

 

[D6130]

The Limerick Junction - Waterford line is quite scenic as are parts of the Ballybrophy - Limerick line. Both lines are under long-term threat and could be done in a single day as part of a Dublin - Ballybrophy - Limerick - Limerick Junction - Waterford - Dublin circuit although, at this time of year the best sections would have to be covered during the hours of darkness. Maybe best left for a summer visit.

 

[Brooke]

Like others here, I’d rate the Cork suburban network and also parts of the line to Tralee as worth spending time on.

The line down the Wicklow coast as well, but the OP mentions they’ve travelled it in the past.

And my personal favourite being the north coast lines to Portrush and Derry.

Travelling in winter has pros & cons of course: no leaves on the trees so better views, but shorter days. (Remember it gets light / gets dark notably later than the UK, especially if you’re in the west)

 

[THC]

Not much to add as others have covered it but those lines well worth seeing are:

Coleraine-Derry (particularly once past Castlerock)
Connolly-Rosslare (particularly Bray-Greystones, around Rathdrum, and Wexford quayside)
Belfast-Connolly (for that queasy feeling when going through bandit country aka south Armagh)
Heuston-Cork (esp. behind a 201, for that proper loco-hauled mainline experience)
Ballybrophy-Limerick (lovely views)

Go n-éirí an bóthar leat!

THC

 

[Brooke]

Perhaps one expansion of this that can help the OP: stations / heritage features that are well worth looking out on the way?

Many of the Dublin suburban stations are a bit soulless but elsewhere there is a lot left to see.

One example: If changing trains at Mallow station, it’s well worth spending a few minutes looking around the station itself, including reading the detailed histories in the waiting room (including IRA activities to disrupt traffic on the line)…

 

[Gloster]

Cork Kent used to be worth a look around, although I don’t think there is much left of the long-closed Summerhill station. And of course look look under you feet in the main terminuses: I always used to admire the chequer board paving. (Or is that a false memory.)

 

[30907]

I don't know my way around the island (last visit 50 years ago!) but rather than return from Derry by rail, is it worth using the bus to Sligo and rail thence?

 

[Gloster]

I don't know my way around the island (last visit 50 years ago!) but rather than return from Derry by rail, is it worth using the bus to Sligo and rail thence?

Very much up to you, but it should be possible. If a trip one way over the North Coast line is enough (and you have already fitted in the Portrush branch) and it fits your itinerary, then why not. But the train from Sligo then takes you to Dublin.

 

[Brooke]

I don't know my way around the island (last visit 50 years ago!) but rather than return from Derry by rail, is it worth using the bus to Sligo and rail thence?

Very much up to you, but it should be possible. If a trip one way over the North Coast line is enough (and you have already fitted in the Portrush branch) and it fits your itinerary, then why not. But the train from Sligo then takes you to Dublin.

Well unless anything has changed recently, it’s certainly feasible - there used to be an Express Way bus every couple of hours.

I’m not sure how much Sligo is worth the visit (maybe I’m biased against the place) but it’s quicker than going back the long way around if you’re wanting to get there.

One good thing about that bus route is that you can stop off at some of the great spots on the coast there: you’re within hiking distance of Streedagh, Mullaghmore, Bundoran etc.

And you can also stop off at Yeats’ grave, if that’s your sort of thing.

 

[danm14]

I don't know my way around the island (last visit 50 years ago!) but rather than return from Derry by rail, is it worth using the bus to Sligo and rail thence?

Honestly, I wouldn't.

It's nearly three hours by bus to Sligo, then over three hours by train to Dublin, and not a particularly interesting journey.

The direct buses from Derry to Dublin (Ulsterbus X3/X4 or John McGinley) only take around four hours.

Alternatively, take the bus from Derry to Belfast (route 212 not 273) and then your choice of transport to Dublin.

 

[D6130]

Honestly, I wouldn't.

It's nearly three hours by bus to Sligo, then over three hours by train to Dublin, and not a particularly interesting journey.

The direct buses from Derry to Dublin (Ulsterbus X3/X4 or John McGinley) only take around four hours.

Alternatively, take the bus from Derry to Belfast (route 212 not 273) and then your choice of transport to Dublin.

I'm afraid I would have to disagree....although at this time of the year, the limited hours of daylight could be a factor. The bus journey - particularly the section between Stranorlar and Donegal Town - is very scenic in good weather and offers great views of the trackbed of the former County Donegal Joint Railways narrow gauge line, which parallels the main road through the Barnesmore Gap. Donegal Town is a very picturesque, friendly and lively little place with good hotels, restaurants, pubs and nightlife, making it a good place to spend a night....from personal experience, I can recommend the Abbey Hotel. The onward bus journey to Sligo is also quite scenic, with a mixture of coastal and mountain scenery, culminating in great views of Benbulben....Ireland's Table Mountain. The train journey from Sligo to Dublin may seem to be mundane by comparison, but has its highlights, including Ballymote Castle, the esker ridges and lakes around Boyle and the winding shores of Lough Owel on the approaches to Mullingar. The final 50 miles or so to Dublin - although relatively flat and mundane - closely follow the Royal Canal, with its interesting industrial archeology.

 

[Shinkansenfan]

I'm looking to travel to Ireland in the next couple of weeks. I've been along the Larne-Belfast, Belfast-Dublin and Dublin-Rosslare lines before, but no more than that.

I would probably go for about 6 days, flying into Belfast on a Tuesday evening and sailing back from Dublin on the Sunday evening. Ideally I'd like to travel on all the lines I haven't been along, but that's probably stretching it for a 6 day trip.

Does anyone have any suggestions for itineraries, places to stay etc. for such a trip? Lines which are particularly scenic etc.? Are there any loco hauled services remaining?

Looking forward with interest to replies, to assist my own next Irish jaunt!

I highly recommend such a trip!

In 2015 using a Trekker 4 day pass (still available at 110 Euros) I was able to cover all the missing trackage I needed, which was considerable. Pass was great value!

The pass is good for 2cl only. But the only train with 1cl I could find (that ran entirely within the area of pass validity) was the Dublin to Cork service. I upgraded by paying the step up charge.

The first day in Ireland was spent riding local trains and the entirety of the LUAS tram routes.

The 4 day pass was activated on Day 2. For those interested, my itinerary of trains ridden is attached. Before anyone asks-- yes, I did have time for sightseeing!

 

[Watershed]

Thanks again, in particular to @Shinkansenfan for that itinerary.

I'm struggling to find a good way to do the Sligo, Ballina and Westport lines in a day, that wouldn't involve doing at least part of the journey in darkness.

If you take the 06:55 Dublin to Sligo, it will be dark until somewhere between Kilcock and Mullingar. OK, a shame but I can live with that. But on arrival at Sligo, the next bus to Ballina (458 departing at 11:32) gets to Ballina at 12:58.

There's a 13:00 train from Ballina to Manulla Junction but it looks like the bus station is a few hundred yards down the road from the railway station, so that seems a very unlikely connection to make (and I can't imagine the train waits!).

Even if you do make it, the only worthwhile option is to connect to a Dublin train at Manulla Junction - meaning you'd have to come back to do the Westport branch. If you don't make it (or decide to spend some time in Ballina), the 15:05 gets you to Westport at 15:57, but the next train towards Dublin then isn't until 18:20. So you'd do the journey in darkness.

If you do it the other way around, there's a 07:35 Dublin departure which gets you to Westport at 10:56 (direct on Fridays, otherwise changing at Athlone). The next connection to Ballina is at 13:10, arriving at 14:00 - unfortunately I can't see any way of getting to Ballina any sooner. Here you either have the 14:00 bus to Sligo (likely impossible to make) or else the 16:00. And if you take the latter it will be dark before you get to Sligo, let alone back to Dublin.

Obviously I've picked the worst time of year to do it - so perhaps it's better to come again in spring or summer - but can anyone else think of a better way to do the above lines in a day, preferably mostly in daylight? Perhaps involving a double back so as to catch a bus between the Sligo and Westport/Ballina lines somewhere closer to Dublin? I'm stumped!

 

[Gloster]

Basically, I don’t think it is possible to do the two lines in daylight at this time of the year: if you haven’t got two days you will probably have to let one go. Personally, I would take Sligo over the other. It is really a two-day job to do both Sligo and Ballina/Westport. When I did it Manulla was nothing but a pair of points remotely controlled from Balla Signal Box and you changed for the branch at Claremorris. I spent part of the day there, as it has slightly more going for it than Manulla probably has: I don’t think you can even leave the station and it probably has minimal facilities. A boring and probably cold wait would ensue.

 

[jamesontheroad]

Manulla Junction is, indeed, an oddity in the sense that you cannot enter or exit the station on foot. It is an island platform between the two tracks. Last photographs / video I saw of it, it no longer had a shelter.

 

[danm14]

Manulla Junction is, indeed, an oddity in the sense that you cannot enter or exit the station on foot. It is an island platform between the two tracks. Last photographs / video I saw of it, it no longer had a shelter.

It is far from unheard of for locals to alight at Manulla Junction instead of continuing to Castlebar and returning by road, and a blind eye is turned to it.

There is supposedly access to it on foot somewhere, and while it may require crossing a fence, I don't believe it involve crossing the track.

 

[Shinkansenfan]

Thanks again, in particular to @Shinkansenfan for that itinerary.

You're most welcome. Glad to help.

I'm struggling to find a good way to do the Sligo, Ballina and Westport lines in a day, that wouldn't involve doing at least part of the journey in darkness.

That is a bit tricky this time of year. Even when I rode (later in the year) I had some bits at night.

If you take the 06:55 Dublin to Sligo, it will be dark until somewhere between Kilcock and Mullingar. OK, a shame but I can live with that. But on arrival at Sligo, the next bus to Ballina (458 departing at 11:32) gets to Ballina at 12:58.

There's a 13:00 train from Ballina to Manulla Junction but it looks like the bus station is a few hundred yards down the road from the railway station, so that seems a very unlikely connection to make (and I can't imagine the train waits!).

At Sligo the railway station is at the top of a small hill and the bus station is at the bottom of the station driveway, which provides good connectivity. Also worth walking into town, which is not far.

Even if you do make it, the only worthwhile option is to connect to a Dublin train at Manulla Junction - meaning you'd have to come back to do the Westport branch. If you don't make it (or decide to spend some time in Ballina), the 15:05 gets you to Westport at 15:57, but the next train towards Dublin then isn't until 18:20. So you'd do the journey in darkness.

As others have posted Manualla Junction is a bit of an odd bird. I departed Dublin under sunny skies, which turned overcast during my connection in Sligo and started to rain while on the bus to Ballina. The dash from Ballina bus station to Ballina railway station was under pouring rain, but I made the connection. However, my connection was a bit longer than what is currently on offer.

The cross platform connection at Manulla Junction could have benefited from a station canopy, but that's OK. I'll dry off.

The tricky bit was how to cover the branch to Wesport (which is a nice place to explore) without consuming too much time? My solution was to stay at the very nice Sheraton in Athlone for two non consecutive nights which also allowed me to store my bag there for my overnight in Cork. Sheraton staff were nice enough to book me into the same suite both nights. Then on the morning of my second stay, I covered the Westport trackage before returning to Dublin. Less efficient than I wanted because of the doubling back, but the Irish Rail DMUs were quite comfortable and well maintained.