DarloRich
Veteran Member
Island Hoping in Scotland : A trip report with a difference which I hope you wont mind me uploading here. It is thin on railways but big on ferries!
My girlfriend and I (and the grumpy hound) recently took our campervan, Bluebelle, to Scotland. The trip started for me on a Thursday night with a journey on the stagecoach X5 form Milton Keynes ot St Neots, a Thamelsink to Peterbrough and a VTEC to Wakefield. A cab ride soon had me at my girlfriends where the van was waiting along with an early night
We started early on Friday morning being on the road at 6am. The journey was a long one with our ultimate destination being Lochaline on the remote Morven peninsula in Argyle and Bute. It is a long way from anywhere and a very long way from Leeds! It is about 380 miles and should take about 7 ½ hours in the car but longer in the van. Kath would be diving and I would be commuting between remote Scottish areas by ferry.
Beinn Dorain by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Off we went up the M1 and A1 to Scotch Corner where a much needed breakfast stop was taken thanks to those good people at Greggs. On to the A66 and over the Stainmore pass. The road is slightly higher than the former South Durham and Lancashire Union Railway route over the pennines which at 1,370 ft was the highest point on the railway network in England until its closure in 1962. The view from the top was superb and with it being such a clear day the lake district fells were clearly visible in the distance.
Doing a passible impression of the starship enterpirse at warp speed we flew down the other side of the hills and sped through Brough and Appleby before crossing under the WCML at Penrith and joining the M6 and M74 north. If not quite the night mail crossing the border we were making good time, pulling up Beattock, a steady climb: The gradient's against her, but she's on time. Soon her climb is done and down towards Glasgow she descends. We were certainly making better progress than the pair of WCRC 47s slogging their way up the long climb!
Glen Coe by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Soon we are coming out of the wilderness and into Hamilton and Motherwell, passing Polmadie and joining the wacky races experience that is the central motorway network in Glasgow where the M8 and A737 took us to Lochwinnoch and a stop at my mums for refreshment and a refuel. Drinks done and toast eaten we headed for the Erskine Bridge and Loch Lommond where we ground to a halt. Traffic was heavy but the weather was wonderful so we enjoyed the slow trundle along the shores enjoying the view.
It took until about Ardlui for the traffic to clear and after that we made good progress via Crianlarich and an ice cream break at the Green Welly Shop in Tyndrum. During the ice cream stop my explanation of the reasons why such a small place as Tyndrum has two stations fell on deaf ears. It went the same way as my plan to get the sleeper north and meet Kath and the van somewhere Scottish and remote. No idea why ..
Anyway, soon we were off and heading up the A82 past Bridge of Orchy and through the stunning pass of Glencoe, over the Ballculish Bridge before pulling up at slipway for our first ferry: the Corran ferry.
Corran Ferry by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
This ferry crosses Loch Linnhe at the Corran Narrows about 10 miles south of Fort William. It is operated, not by the ubiquitous Caledonian MacBrayne (of them more later) but by Highland Council. The ferry is a crucial link between the A82 and the otherwise extremely remote Morvern and Ardnamurchan peninsulas. Use of this ferry saved us at least an hour on the land route from Corran to Lochaline. The Ferry, The Corran, was built in Hull in 2001 for the sum of £2.9m. The ferry runs every 20 to 30 minutes all day and the crossing takes about 10 minutes and has space for about 12 cars. The journey costs £8.30 for vehicles.
Corran Ferry by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
From the slip way at Ardgour to Lochaline is only about 30 miles. Thats only about 30 miles over increasingly narrowing, twisty, hilly, remote and beautiful roads via Strontian where the chemical element Strontium ( SR38 for you chemists out there) was discovered. This part of the journey took a good hour and having checked out where the dive boat would leave from we retired to our campsite at Finuary on the shores of the sound of Mull. It was wonderful and peaceful.
Lochaline by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Next morning I dropped Kath at the harbour side early so she could go diving and I could go for a round trip that should have me back at Lochaline by tea time. First up was the ferry from Lochaline to Fishnish on the Isle of Mull. This service is run by Caledonian MacBrayne. It cost me £6.90 for a single on the crossing that took about 15 minutes. A note on the prices on Calmac which seem at times to be flexible! You pay a price for your vehicle and a price per person on board. Sometimes we were charged a price for a smaller vehicle, sometimes we were not charged for any passengers and sometimes we paid the correct price!
Lochaline by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
The ferry itself is the MV Lochinvar which was built by Ferguson Shipbuilders of Glasgow in 2011. She is one of only three passenger and vehicle roll-on, roll-off ferries in the world to incorporate a low-carbon hybrid system of diesel electric and lithium ion battery power and is the second hybrid ferry commissioned and owned by Cal Mac. She has a top speed of 9 knots, can carry 150 passengers, 23 cars or two HGVs, is 150 ft long and is a sea going vessel. Her name comes from and 1808 poem by Sir Walter Scott and she looked very smart in the early morning sun.
My furry co driver and I took our place in the queue (fortified by square sausage & bacon rolls and tea from the snack bar at the grandly named ferry terminal) and were soon beckoned forward. We rolled slowly down the slip way and clanked over the boarding ramp on the spacious through vehicle deck. With the boarding ramp secure the hound and I took a spot on the top deck to enjoy the early morning air as the ferry departed. I was surprised to see that there were no ropes as the ship is held in position by thrusters at the bow and stern. We reversed away from the quay and into the loch before moving forward to cross the dark, black waters sound of Mull. The quay at Fishnish looked very small and seemed to consist of a road running out of the trees into the sea.
Lochaline by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Soon the warning horn sounded and the ramp begin to drop as the ship ran into the slipway. We were back on board as the ramp thudded down and within a few seconds the crew were directing traffic off and foot passengers on. A very slick operation.
At the main road we turned right and headed for Tobermory, the capital of Mull but perhaps best known for its multi coloured houses and appearances in the BBC childrens show Balamory . I had been told by the crew on the first ferry that my second ferry might not be running due to low tidal levels. Not knowing what the story would be in Ballmory I set off to find out.
The run up the coast was lovely and after the wonderful ruined Aros Castle the road changed from a modern A road to a narrow road with passing places before opening up again just before the town. I pulled up in the large harbour side car park, took a few pictures and tried to persuade the dog to go for a walk. He refused. Instead we drove round to the ferry terminal and joined the queue. It turned out the first ferry hadnt run but the next one would run. In 2 hours. The only thing for it was to go for a walk and then make a brew in the van. The dog only consented to be emptied on the quayside in exchange for some bacon roll!
Tobermory by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
The ferry we were all waiting for was the small MV Loch Tarbert which works between Tobermory and Kilchoan on the very remote Ardnamurchan peninsula. The ferry was built by James N Miller & Sons Ltd of St Monans, Fife in 1992. She can carry 142 passengers and 17 cars . The staff were soon out and about counting and then worryingly measuring Bluebelle and the 2 other camper vans In the queue. How long are we? How much do you weigh? Could the luggage rack come off? Would anyone be prepared to drive the long way via Fishnish? I was told that we would be going on last and only then if there was enough room. The bloke behind me was not happy to be told he wouldnt be getting on!
Tobermory by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
As the boat pulled in I could see why they were concerned. It looked tiny and quite narrow, more WWII landing craft than 21st century ferry. Once the incoming traffic was off the ferrymen started the automotive Tetris that was loading . One car at a time was called forward starting with the smallest. They were marshalled with inch perfect precision almost touching each other. Then the other campers went on before eventually it was our turn.
Tobermory by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
We are a 3.5t 8 feet high and 20 feet long van, a monster in these circumstances. Slowly and with some trepidation I rolled down the concrete slip way following the directions of the marshal: Left a bit, forward, left a bit more, LEFT! Keep coming, keep coming, left, straight, left, straight, stop! Now VERY slowly inch up. Watch me not the cars. STOP! That will do it. With us on the marshals then loaded the formerly angry but now very happy man aboard by wedging him in at a funny angle. God knows how they did it but we were all aboard and the ramps were up.
Kilchoan by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
For the second time today we were crossing the sound of Mull but the scenery here was different, much more mountainous and rugged. The crossing here cost me £15, takes roughly 35 minutes and was very bracing. The little ferry was buffeted by winds but kept chugging slowly forward.
Kilchoan by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Kilchoan by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
The slipway at Kilochan is tiny and in the middle of nowhere. The road is narrow and I took a few minutes to let the other vehicles get ahead before tackling the road to Salen. This was a single track road with passing places, was utterly deserted and was stunningly beautiful. It ran over steep wild moors and along the banks of Loch Sunart. At Salen I turned left and headed over more moors and past more lochs to reach Lochailort station on the West Highland Line.
Here I paused for a cup of tea, an emptying of the dog and an exploration of the station which is a request stop on the Mallaig Extension Railway. It has one platform, a shelter, a timetable and some lampposts. There were no trains for some time! Apparently the rugged terrain nearby provided an excellent training ground for Special Operations Executive (SOE) Commandoes during the Second World War but today it was quiet and peaceful.
Lochailort by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Next stop was Glenfinnan which is the next station along the line. To get there we took the A830 alongside Loch Eilt. On arrival I squeezed the van into the tiny car park and had a look around the restored station. It has a collection of equipment, some carriages in use as a café, a restored signal boxes, two very well looked after platforms and a museum. I hoped to go onto the viaduct and monument but as I returned to the van the heavens opened so I decided to head back to base.
Glenfinnan by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Rather than drive through Fort William and back to the Corran ferry I spotted a short cut along the A861 which ran along the far side of Lochs Eli and Linnhe which would save me £8.30 and would surely be quicker. It might have been shorter on the map but was very slow and it took me a good two hours to cover the 56 miles between Glenfinnan and Lochaline and I arrived only just in time to pick Kath up.
We retired to our lovely campsite looking forward to a relaxing drink and a nice meal to be confronted by a grey cloud of angry midges intent on snacking upon us. The van was invaded and we ended up fleeing the campsite and spending the night at the ferry terminal! At least that made the morning commute bearable!
Lochaline by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Next day I was back on the MV Lochinvar and off to explore the interior of Mull. It is stunning, simply stunning and like a different world. I had two options: A circular route that would cover most of the island or a trip to Iona. I had time for only one. In the end I did neither due to an emergency road closure! I drove all the way to Gruline cross roads over narrow mountain roads meeting little traffic, except a massive red West Coast Motors coach which was a little unnerving on such a narrow road, before being turned back. In the end I went back to Tobermory before taking the ferry back to Lochaline.
Fishnish by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
The crossing was much slower than normal (I was now an expert at this ferry lark) due to the fact our ferry seemed to be playing chicken with two massive Cal mac ships heading in and out of Oban via the sound of Mull. First we angled behind the outbound MV Isle of Lewis and then in front of the inbound MV Clansman before beating back onto our normal path. They were both much bigger than us and looked like proper sea going ships and werent in any mood to give way!
Lochaline by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
The plan was to collect Kath, drive back to Corran and on to Oban. As she was running a little early we end up taking MV Loch Tarbet back to Mull (again much to the amusement of the staff who offered me a season ticket!) before driving to Craignure and the Oban ferry.
Fishnish by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
We raced down to the terminal, rushed into the ticket office and dashed aboard the appropriately named MV Isle of Mull ( built by Ferguson Shipbuilders of Port Glasgow in 1987) for the 50 minute crossing to the mainland. This one cost us £21. This ship is massive compared to the others with a capacity 962 passengers & 70 cars on a fully enclosed car deck. We took a spot on the upper decks and watched the world go by as we sipped tea and tried to prevent the dog eating the grannys obsessed with petting him! Slipping past in the other direction was the second ship on this run the smaller MV Coruisk . This vessel seems to have had a nomadic and eventful life before finding a semi-permanent home on the Mull run.
Craignure by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Oban soon arrived an after unloading we headed for our campsite and more midges., We stuck it out overnight but by the morning we both resembled pin cushions and enough was enough. We had a look around Oban harbour before heading south via a stop for tea and buns atCrianlarich . We settled on Largs where Kath met some friends for more diving.
The Isle of Mull by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Sadly the weather was terrible and diving proved very difficult. We instead enjoyed a walk around the very colourful Kelburn Castle and undertook a recce to a proposed dive site Wemyss Bay. This proved impossible in the bad and with the sea turning angry we saw another CalMac ferry, MV Argyle, struggle into harbour. Passing the station I saw the prestigious Royal Scotsman train hauled by a rather prosaic, if appropriately for us, 66739 named Bluebell Railway so stopped for a nosey. The well-heeled passengers were obviously off enjoying a trip to Rothesay as the station was deserted.
Cumbrae by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
After a decent night at a quiet farmhouse campsite near Largs we set off for Cumbrae. This required yet another Calmac ferry trip, perhaps the shortest run in their roster, between Largs and Cumbrae slip. Waiting for us was the massive (at least for this run) MV Loch Shira. This ship was built by Ferguson Shipbuilders of Port Glasgow in 2006 and has a capacity of 36 cars and 250 passengers, however CalMac have stated that it is unlikely that more than 24 cars will be carried on the current route, in order to avoid traffic congestion both on the Isle of Cumbrae and at the Largs ferry terminal, where a busy junction is encountered just yards from leaving the boat. She has two areas for passengers: a smaller lounge on the car deck, and full lounge above it along with a large outside areas offering lovely views of the Firth of Clyde, the Hunterston B nuclear power station and the foreign ore terminal. This crossing cost us £12.20.
Largs by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
The journey is 10 minutes long and soon deposits you on the island of Cumbrae. Measuring roughly 2.5 miles by 1.2 miles this is a lovely quiet and peaceful little island favoured by cyclists and walkers many of who seemed to be on our ferry. It is a short drive from the slip way to the main ( perhaps only) settlement on the island: Millport.
Cumbrae by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
This is a lovely little seaside town where while Kath did some diving off the pier I retied to the wonderfully time warped ritz café for rolls and coffee. After that I explored the Cathedral of the Isles (the smallest Cathedral in Britain) the Wedge ( Britains thinnest house) and Garrison House before collecting the divers and driving them round to Fintry Bay where while they had another dip I had a brew and read my book. Once they were out and dry we headed back to Millport for fortifying fish and chips before driving back to the ferry the long way round.
Largs by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Waiting for us was the second ferry on the Cumbrae crossing: MV Loch Riddon. This is a much smaller ferry but she can she can still carry 200 passengers and 12 cars. This ship was built by R.Dunston of Hessle & dates from 1986. Now an expert at boarding a ferry I coolly rolled aboard without too much bother. We then took up a position on the top deck and while crossing saw two dolphin or porpoise jumping in front of the boat.
Largs by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Once off the ferry we trundled back to the campsite, had a nice meal and retied early. Next morning we were off south and I drove as far as Penrith where we said our good byes and I joined a quiet Pendolino for the journey back to MK.
Largs by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
My girlfriend and I (and the grumpy hound) recently took our campervan, Bluebelle, to Scotland. The trip started for me on a Thursday night with a journey on the stagecoach X5 form Milton Keynes ot St Neots, a Thamelsink to Peterbrough and a VTEC to Wakefield. A cab ride soon had me at my girlfriends where the van was waiting along with an early night
We started early on Friday morning being on the road at 6am. The journey was a long one with our ultimate destination being Lochaline on the remote Morven peninsula in Argyle and Bute. It is a long way from anywhere and a very long way from Leeds! It is about 380 miles and should take about 7 ½ hours in the car but longer in the van. Kath would be diving and I would be commuting between remote Scottish areas by ferry.
Beinn Dorain by DarloRich2009, on FlickrOff we went up the M1 and A1 to Scotch Corner where a much needed breakfast stop was taken thanks to those good people at Greggs. On to the A66 and over the Stainmore pass. The road is slightly higher than the former South Durham and Lancashire Union Railway route over the pennines which at 1,370 ft was the highest point on the railway network in England until its closure in 1962. The view from the top was superb and with it being such a clear day the lake district fells were clearly visible in the distance.
Doing a passible impression of the starship enterpirse at warp speed we flew down the other side of the hills and sped through Brough and Appleby before crossing under the WCML at Penrith and joining the M6 and M74 north. If not quite the night mail crossing the border we were making good time, pulling up Beattock, a steady climb: The gradient's against her, but she's on time. Soon her climb is done and down towards Glasgow she descends. We were certainly making better progress than the pair of WCRC 47s slogging their way up the long climb!
Glen Coe by DarloRich2009, on FlickrSoon we are coming out of the wilderness and into Hamilton and Motherwell, passing Polmadie and joining the wacky races experience that is the central motorway network in Glasgow where the M8 and A737 took us to Lochwinnoch and a stop at my mums for refreshment and a refuel. Drinks done and toast eaten we headed for the Erskine Bridge and Loch Lommond where we ground to a halt. Traffic was heavy but the weather was wonderful so we enjoyed the slow trundle along the shores enjoying the view.
It took until about Ardlui for the traffic to clear and after that we made good progress via Crianlarich and an ice cream break at the Green Welly Shop in Tyndrum. During the ice cream stop my explanation of the reasons why such a small place as Tyndrum has two stations fell on deaf ears. It went the same way as my plan to get the sleeper north and meet Kath and the van somewhere Scottish and remote. No idea why ..
Anyway, soon we were off and heading up the A82 past Bridge of Orchy and through the stunning pass of Glencoe, over the Ballculish Bridge before pulling up at slipway for our first ferry: the Corran ferry.
Corran Ferry by DarloRich2009, on FlickrThis ferry crosses Loch Linnhe at the Corran Narrows about 10 miles south of Fort William. It is operated, not by the ubiquitous Caledonian MacBrayne (of them more later) but by Highland Council. The ferry is a crucial link between the A82 and the otherwise extremely remote Morvern and Ardnamurchan peninsulas. Use of this ferry saved us at least an hour on the land route from Corran to Lochaline. The Ferry, The Corran, was built in Hull in 2001 for the sum of £2.9m. The ferry runs every 20 to 30 minutes all day and the crossing takes about 10 minutes and has space for about 12 cars. The journey costs £8.30 for vehicles.
Corran Ferry by DarloRich2009, on FlickrFrom the slip way at Ardgour to Lochaline is only about 30 miles. Thats only about 30 miles over increasingly narrowing, twisty, hilly, remote and beautiful roads via Strontian where the chemical element Strontium ( SR38 for you chemists out there) was discovered. This part of the journey took a good hour and having checked out where the dive boat would leave from we retired to our campsite at Finuary on the shores of the sound of Mull. It was wonderful and peaceful.
Lochaline by DarloRich2009, on FlickrNext morning I dropped Kath at the harbour side early so she could go diving and I could go for a round trip that should have me back at Lochaline by tea time. First up was the ferry from Lochaline to Fishnish on the Isle of Mull. This service is run by Caledonian MacBrayne. It cost me £6.90 for a single on the crossing that took about 15 minutes. A note on the prices on Calmac which seem at times to be flexible! You pay a price for your vehicle and a price per person on board. Sometimes we were charged a price for a smaller vehicle, sometimes we were not charged for any passengers and sometimes we paid the correct price!
Lochaline by DarloRich2009, on FlickrThe ferry itself is the MV Lochinvar which was built by Ferguson Shipbuilders of Glasgow in 2011. She is one of only three passenger and vehicle roll-on, roll-off ferries in the world to incorporate a low-carbon hybrid system of diesel electric and lithium ion battery power and is the second hybrid ferry commissioned and owned by Cal Mac. She has a top speed of 9 knots, can carry 150 passengers, 23 cars or two HGVs, is 150 ft long and is a sea going vessel. Her name comes from and 1808 poem by Sir Walter Scott and she looked very smart in the early morning sun.
My furry co driver and I took our place in the queue (fortified by square sausage & bacon rolls and tea from the snack bar at the grandly named ferry terminal) and were soon beckoned forward. We rolled slowly down the slip way and clanked over the boarding ramp on the spacious through vehicle deck. With the boarding ramp secure the hound and I took a spot on the top deck to enjoy the early morning air as the ferry departed. I was surprised to see that there were no ropes as the ship is held in position by thrusters at the bow and stern. We reversed away from the quay and into the loch before moving forward to cross the dark, black waters sound of Mull. The quay at Fishnish looked very small and seemed to consist of a road running out of the trees into the sea.
Lochaline by DarloRich2009, on FlickrSoon the warning horn sounded and the ramp begin to drop as the ship ran into the slipway. We were back on board as the ramp thudded down and within a few seconds the crew were directing traffic off and foot passengers on. A very slick operation.
At the main road we turned right and headed for Tobermory, the capital of Mull but perhaps best known for its multi coloured houses and appearances in the BBC childrens show Balamory . I had been told by the crew on the first ferry that my second ferry might not be running due to low tidal levels. Not knowing what the story would be in Ballmory I set off to find out.
The run up the coast was lovely and after the wonderful ruined Aros Castle the road changed from a modern A road to a narrow road with passing places before opening up again just before the town. I pulled up in the large harbour side car park, took a few pictures and tried to persuade the dog to go for a walk. He refused. Instead we drove round to the ferry terminal and joined the queue. It turned out the first ferry hadnt run but the next one would run. In 2 hours. The only thing for it was to go for a walk and then make a brew in the van. The dog only consented to be emptied on the quayside in exchange for some bacon roll!
Tobermory by DarloRich2009, on FlickrThe ferry we were all waiting for was the small MV Loch Tarbert which works between Tobermory and Kilchoan on the very remote Ardnamurchan peninsula. The ferry was built by James N Miller & Sons Ltd of St Monans, Fife in 1992. She can carry 142 passengers and 17 cars . The staff were soon out and about counting and then worryingly measuring Bluebelle and the 2 other camper vans In the queue. How long are we? How much do you weigh? Could the luggage rack come off? Would anyone be prepared to drive the long way via Fishnish? I was told that we would be going on last and only then if there was enough room. The bloke behind me was not happy to be told he wouldnt be getting on!
Tobermory by DarloRich2009, on FlickrAs the boat pulled in I could see why they were concerned. It looked tiny and quite narrow, more WWII landing craft than 21st century ferry. Once the incoming traffic was off the ferrymen started the automotive Tetris that was loading . One car at a time was called forward starting with the smallest. They were marshalled with inch perfect precision almost touching each other. Then the other campers went on before eventually it was our turn.
Tobermory by DarloRich2009, on FlickrWe are a 3.5t 8 feet high and 20 feet long van, a monster in these circumstances. Slowly and with some trepidation I rolled down the concrete slip way following the directions of the marshal: Left a bit, forward, left a bit more, LEFT! Keep coming, keep coming, left, straight, left, straight, stop! Now VERY slowly inch up. Watch me not the cars. STOP! That will do it. With us on the marshals then loaded the formerly angry but now very happy man aboard by wedging him in at a funny angle. God knows how they did it but we were all aboard and the ramps were up.
Kilchoan by DarloRich2009, on FlickrFor the second time today we were crossing the sound of Mull but the scenery here was different, much more mountainous and rugged. The crossing here cost me £15, takes roughly 35 minutes and was very bracing. The little ferry was buffeted by winds but kept chugging slowly forward.
Kilchoan by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
Kilchoan by DarloRich2009, on FlickrThe slipway at Kilochan is tiny and in the middle of nowhere. The road is narrow and I took a few minutes to let the other vehicles get ahead before tackling the road to Salen. This was a single track road with passing places, was utterly deserted and was stunningly beautiful. It ran over steep wild moors and along the banks of Loch Sunart. At Salen I turned left and headed over more moors and past more lochs to reach Lochailort station on the West Highland Line.
Here I paused for a cup of tea, an emptying of the dog and an exploration of the station which is a request stop on the Mallaig Extension Railway. It has one platform, a shelter, a timetable and some lampposts. There were no trains for some time! Apparently the rugged terrain nearby provided an excellent training ground for Special Operations Executive (SOE) Commandoes during the Second World War but today it was quiet and peaceful.
Lochailort by DarloRich2009, on FlickrNext stop was Glenfinnan which is the next station along the line. To get there we took the A830 alongside Loch Eilt. On arrival I squeezed the van into the tiny car park and had a look around the restored station. It has a collection of equipment, some carriages in use as a café, a restored signal boxes, two very well looked after platforms and a museum. I hoped to go onto the viaduct and monument but as I returned to the van the heavens opened so I decided to head back to base.
Glenfinnan by DarloRich2009, on FlickrRather than drive through Fort William and back to the Corran ferry I spotted a short cut along the A861 which ran along the far side of Lochs Eli and Linnhe which would save me £8.30 and would surely be quicker. It might have been shorter on the map but was very slow and it took me a good two hours to cover the 56 miles between Glenfinnan and Lochaline and I arrived only just in time to pick Kath up.
We retired to our lovely campsite looking forward to a relaxing drink and a nice meal to be confronted by a grey cloud of angry midges intent on snacking upon us. The van was invaded and we ended up fleeing the campsite and spending the night at the ferry terminal! At least that made the morning commute bearable!
Lochaline by DarloRich2009, on FlickrNext day I was back on the MV Lochinvar and off to explore the interior of Mull. It is stunning, simply stunning and like a different world. I had two options: A circular route that would cover most of the island or a trip to Iona. I had time for only one. In the end I did neither due to an emergency road closure! I drove all the way to Gruline cross roads over narrow mountain roads meeting little traffic, except a massive red West Coast Motors coach which was a little unnerving on such a narrow road, before being turned back. In the end I went back to Tobermory before taking the ferry back to Lochaline.
Fishnish by DarloRich2009, on FlickrThe crossing was much slower than normal (I was now an expert at this ferry lark) due to the fact our ferry seemed to be playing chicken with two massive Cal mac ships heading in and out of Oban via the sound of Mull. First we angled behind the outbound MV Isle of Lewis and then in front of the inbound MV Clansman before beating back onto our normal path. They were both much bigger than us and looked like proper sea going ships and werent in any mood to give way!
Lochaline by DarloRich2009, on FlickrThe plan was to collect Kath, drive back to Corran and on to Oban. As she was running a little early we end up taking MV Loch Tarbet back to Mull (again much to the amusement of the staff who offered me a season ticket!) before driving to Craignure and the Oban ferry.
Fishnish by DarloRich2009, on FlickrWe raced down to the terminal, rushed into the ticket office and dashed aboard the appropriately named MV Isle of Mull ( built by Ferguson Shipbuilders of Port Glasgow in 1987) for the 50 minute crossing to the mainland. This one cost us £21. This ship is massive compared to the others with a capacity 962 passengers & 70 cars on a fully enclosed car deck. We took a spot on the upper decks and watched the world go by as we sipped tea and tried to prevent the dog eating the grannys obsessed with petting him! Slipping past in the other direction was the second ship on this run the smaller MV Coruisk . This vessel seems to have had a nomadic and eventful life before finding a semi-permanent home on the Mull run.
Craignure by DarloRich2009, on FlickrOban soon arrived an after unloading we headed for our campsite and more midges., We stuck it out overnight but by the morning we both resembled pin cushions and enough was enough. We had a look around Oban harbour before heading south via a stop for tea and buns atCrianlarich . We settled on Largs where Kath met some friends for more diving.
The Isle of Mull by DarloRich2009, on FlickrSadly the weather was terrible and diving proved very difficult. We instead enjoyed a walk around the very colourful Kelburn Castle and undertook a recce to a proposed dive site Wemyss Bay. This proved impossible in the bad and with the sea turning angry we saw another CalMac ferry, MV Argyle, struggle into harbour. Passing the station I saw the prestigious Royal Scotsman train hauled by a rather prosaic, if appropriately for us, 66739 named Bluebell Railway so stopped for a nosey. The well-heeled passengers were obviously off enjoying a trip to Rothesay as the station was deserted.
Cumbrae by DarloRich2009, on FlickrAfter a decent night at a quiet farmhouse campsite near Largs we set off for Cumbrae. This required yet another Calmac ferry trip, perhaps the shortest run in their roster, between Largs and Cumbrae slip. Waiting for us was the massive (at least for this run) MV Loch Shira. This ship was built by Ferguson Shipbuilders of Port Glasgow in 2006 and has a capacity of 36 cars and 250 passengers, however CalMac have stated that it is unlikely that more than 24 cars will be carried on the current route, in order to avoid traffic congestion both on the Isle of Cumbrae and at the Largs ferry terminal, where a busy junction is encountered just yards from leaving the boat. She has two areas for passengers: a smaller lounge on the car deck, and full lounge above it along with a large outside areas offering lovely views of the Firth of Clyde, the Hunterston B nuclear power station and the foreign ore terminal. This crossing cost us £12.20.
Largs by DarloRich2009, on FlickrThe journey is 10 minutes long and soon deposits you on the island of Cumbrae. Measuring roughly 2.5 miles by 1.2 miles this is a lovely quiet and peaceful little island favoured by cyclists and walkers many of who seemed to be on our ferry. It is a short drive from the slip way to the main ( perhaps only) settlement on the island: Millport.
Cumbrae by DarloRich2009, on FlickrThis is a lovely little seaside town where while Kath did some diving off the pier I retied to the wonderfully time warped ritz café for rolls and coffee. After that I explored the Cathedral of the Isles (the smallest Cathedral in Britain) the Wedge ( Britains thinnest house) and Garrison House before collecting the divers and driving them round to Fintry Bay where while they had another dip I had a brew and read my book. Once they were out and dry we headed back to Millport for fortifying fish and chips before driving back to the ferry the long way round.
Largs by DarloRich2009, on FlickrWaiting for us was the second ferry on the Cumbrae crossing: MV Loch Riddon. This is a much smaller ferry but she can she can still carry 200 passengers and 12 cars. This ship was built by R.Dunston of Hessle & dates from 1986. Now an expert at boarding a ferry I coolly rolled aboard without too much bother. We then took up a position on the top deck and while crossing saw two dolphin or porpoise jumping in front of the boat.
Largs by DarloRich2009, on FlickrOnce off the ferry we trundled back to the campsite, had a nice meal and retied early. Next morning we were off south and I drove as far as Penrith where we said our good byes and I joined a quiet Pendolino for the journey back to MK.
Largs by DarloRich2009, on Flickr
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(but it's the rain that keeps it green, like Ireland).
) is a cheap way to get about. Campsites are £12-£20 per night with electric, showers and toliets ( the pooh cupboard is really only for emergency/ early am usage 
.
...
(and yes, Iona is worth visiting, if only for the sense of 'miles from anywhere' isolation. Not that it's too difficult to find that in other parts of the Highlands, there is usually a road to 'nowhere in particular' not far away. Arriving at somewhere like Oban or Fort William after being 'in the wilds' is a bit of a culture shock...).
