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More Rover and Ranger Reports from Chris C

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ChrisC

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I tried to add this report to my previous ChrisC Rover and Ranger thread but was not able to do so as this had been locked to further replies. I hadn't posted there for over a year!

Last year was a busy year but for obvious reasons I have not done any holidays involving using rail rovers this year.
Here is a report from my last big one which was in September last year. I enjoy writing them and hopefully it will give others useful information and ideas for future trips.

Scotland
At the beginning of September last year, I did a 10-night stay in Scotland. I made use of an 8 Days in 15 Spirit of Scotland Travel Pass, which I thought was quite good value at £124 with my Senior Railcard. My Off-Peak Return from Nottingham to Inverness was £113. Although I have toured most of the north and west of Scotland, quite extensively, including the Western Isles, by car this would be the first time I had travelled north of Perth by train.

I stayed for 7 nights in the River Ness Central Premier Inn in Inverness. This was one of the better Premier Inn's that I have stayed in, right in the centre of Inverness on the side of the river, and no more than 10 minutes walk from the station. It was expensive for a Premier Inn, but that's Inverness. Some of the other hotels in Inverness were charging unbelievably high prices during that first week in September.

My final 3 nights were at Queen Street Travelodge in Scotland. I paid slightly more for one of their Super Rooms but the price for a city centre location wasn't bad.

DAY 1
Fairly early 0735 start from Nottingham to Grantham and then an additional change at Newark Northgate to get me up to Edinburgh. The LNER train up to Edinburgh was very lightly loaded and in the Quiet Coach at the front there were no more than half a dozen passengers after Newcastle.
After a break of approx. 1 hour in Edinburgh I got the 1332 train to Inverness. An extremely overcrowded 170 but I got on quickly at Edinburgh and got a comfortable seat by a window. I just felt sorry for all those who boarded at Perth and had to stand to Inverness. I'm glad I did this with an arrival in Inverness at approx. 5pm as it gave me an evening to get something to eat and explore this lovely city. That's why I didn't travel up on the Highland Chieftain as I didn't want to arrive in Inverness after dark.



DAY 2
The good thing about staying in Inverness is its central location in the North of Scotland. Weather conditions can vary greatly from East to West and North to South in Scotland. I therefore watched the weather forecast each night and early morning before deciding which direction to go.

On the Tuesday it was going to be very wet except for the far north. Therefore, it was a very early 6.30 am breakfast before boarding the 0700 departure to Thurso. The 158 was very quiet for the whole journey but became very impressed with these units as I used them for most of my travelling over next few days. Quite comfortable with plenty of tables and good alignment of seats with windows.

I really enjoyed my journey up to Thurso especially the bit along the coast between Golspie and Helmsdale and the wild Caithness Flows Country beyond Helmsdale. I found Thurso an interesting town to wander around for a couple of hours, although I had been there before a few years ago by car. I didn't bother going to Wick as it wasn’t a town that I was very impressed with on my previous visits.

I got the same unit back from Thurso at 1306 and I had intended stopping off somewhere like Helmsdale or Golspie on the way back but as rain threatened, I decided to stay on the train back to Inverness. I didn't want to be stranded in a small place for 4 hours in pouring rain. I love those places on the North east Coast and can wander around them and the beaches for hours on a dry day. An arrival back in Inverness, in pouring rain at approx. 5pm enabled me to get something to eat, have a relaxing evening and then an early night.

DAY 3
Weather forecast was still forecasting heavy rain in the west, so I decided to head east on the Inverness to Aberdeen line on Wednesday.

My rail rover allowed travel at all times on the Far North, Kyle of Lochalsh and West Highland Lines but everywhere else was not valid before 09.15 Monday to Friday. Unfortunately, the Aberdeen train leaves Inverness at 0901 and the next one is not until 1102. After a quick walk along the side of the river and a visit to Inverness Cathedral I got the 0959 Elgin train as far as Nairn. I was only intending to spend 1 hour in Nairn before continuing to Aberdeen. It was such an interesting place with a great beach to walk along that I stayed for 2 hours and therefore the next train was only going as far as Elgin. I have been to Elgin on several occasions and so I decided to get off at Forres. An interesting old town with award winning floral displays in the park. Just one hour here as I wanted to get an Aberdeen train to explore further along the line. I had already been to Keith and Huntley by car and so decided to stay on until Inverurie. I was quite disappointed with Inverurie although I did find a nice tea shop. As by now it was late afternoon and I had done lots of walking today, I decided not to go on to Aberdeen but to get the next train back to Inverness. A good day out all on 158’s, many of which were quite full.

DAY 4
Weather in the west still didn’t look good and so I decided to have a later start and another trip up the far North Line with the intention of visiting Brora, Golspie and Helmsdale. With trains only running approx. every 4 hours in each direction, they must be done in that order, which allows about 2 hours in each of these large villages on the coast. It was a good day with quite good weather. A lovely walk along the huge deserted sandy beach at Brora, a walk along the sea front at Golspie and finally fish and chips plus a quick walk around the harbour at Helmsdale. Important not to miss the last train back to Inverness just before 6 o’clock. I really enjoyed this day visiting places by train that I had been to by car many years ago. They are all much more geared up for tourists these days than they were, but at least now there are plenty of places to eat and drink.

DAY 5
Friday and still heavy rain in the west but a forecast of a lovely sunny weekend ahead throughout Scotland. I decided to have a ride down the Highland Mainline towards Perth. A change from a 158 today with a very crowded 170. Rather than choose to get off at one of the busier stations I decided to leave the train at Dunkeld and Birnam. I’m so pleased that I did as Dunkeld is a lovely old historic town with cathedral, on the banks of the River Tay.

Not all trains stop at Dunkeld and after a walk around the town I decided it would be easier to get the bus down to Perth rather than a long wait for the next train. I boarded the Stagecoach bus expecting to have to pay a fare well over £5 for this journey of around 20 miles by road. I couldn’t believe it when I was only charged £2.90! I looked it up on the Stagecoach website to check and it really was that small amount. At home in Nottinghamshire Trent Barton charge £4 for a single from my village into Nottingham and its only 8 miles.

I only had a short time wandering around Perth and enjoyed looking inside the Scottish Episcopal Cathedral. I decided not to stay that much longer and originally intended to travel back to Inverness via Aberdeen. However, I was feeling quite tired and decided to get the 1450 straight back to inverness which was an extremely crowded 170. Fortunately, not having any luggage, I was able to quickly get onboard and sit in one of the very few seats available. Many people stood for the whole 2-hour journey to Inverness.

DAY 6
This day was the highlight of my holiday in Scotland. After a week when the west of Scotland had been having torrential, a clear sunny weekend was now forecast and so I set off, together with lots of Canadian tourists, on the 0855 departure to Kyle of Lochalsh. Fantastic views and clear blue skies for the journey on a busy 158. I got off at Plockton and walked down into the village, a place I had always intended to visit when I had been up the west Coast by car, I enjoyed a wonderful 3 hours wandering around Plockton and climbed up to a view point at the far end of the village with magnificent views over to the mountains of Skye on such a clear day. After enjoying some fresh
seafood in the village,

I walked back up to the station in time for the 1411 departure back towards Inverness. but only for the 12-minute journey as far as Stromeferry. There wasn’t really anything to do or anywhere to go in Stromeferry except for enjoying 1 hour 40 minutes sitting in the warm sun on a jetty overlooking Loch Carron. Apart from the sound of the waves and the birds it was completely silent, and I never saw another person there, even on the single station platform. I could have sat there for hours.

I caught the 1550 train to Kyle of Lochalsh where I stocked up on drinks and sandwiches for the return journey. I’m glad that I spent most of the day in Plockton and Stromeferry as Kyle was very busy and noisy as it was the day of the Lifeboat Festival.

It was a lovely journey back to Inverness on the 1713 departure, a very lightly loaded 158. The views in the light of the late afternoon sun were well worth seeing.

DAY 7
I had a rest from train travel on the Sunday. I had a very enjoyable day out on the Black Isle by bus. I visited the lovely old town of Cromarty and after 2 hours exploring got the bus back as far as Rosemarkie. From there I walked along the beach to Chanory Point where I sat for 2 hours looking without luck for bottle nose dolphins. I continued walking along the coast into Fortrose, where I got some very good fish and chips before getting the bus back into Inverness.


DAY 8
The day that I moved from the Inverness Premier Inn down to Glasgow Queen Street Travelodge.
The 0944 train to Edinburgh on the Monday was an experience! Instead of a 170 it was a single 2 carriage 158. Fortunately, I was at Inverness Station quite early and was able to get on the train quickly and get a seat close to a luggage rack where I put my case. The train left Inverness with a small number of people standing. Everyone boarding at other stops down the line, with tons of luggage had to stand and I really do not know how they got everyone squashed into the doors at Pitlochry! Being a 158 there were of course no reservations.

As I had a seat, I decided to remain on the train down to Edinburgh. I didn’t want to get off at Perth and risk boarding another crowded train down to Glasgow and having to stand. It also gave me the chance to travel from Edinburgh to Glasgow Queen Street LL via Bathgate and Airdie, a route that I had never travelled along before. Once settled into my hotel room I had a walk around Glasgow City Centre and found somewhere to eat.

DAY 9
The main reason for my move down to Glasgow was for a trip on the West Highland Line to Mallaig. I had been to Oban many years ago. So long ago that it was a Class 37 hauled train!

Unfortunately the line was now closed for bridge repairs near Tyndrum with a bus replacement between Crianlarich and Bridge of Orchy. Also the weather forecast for the West of Scotland was not good with a storm coming in mid afternoon. I decided to give it a miss and try the following day.

Instead I had a ride down from Glasgow Central to Ardrossan Harbour and took the ferry over to the Isle of Arran. I had a lovely day doing a circular bus ride around Arran stopping off at a couple of interesting places before getting a late afternoon ferry back to Ardrossan. Quite a rough crossing with heavy rain for the return journey as the storm arrived. I was pleased that I had not gone to Mallaig as the weather on Arran had been quite good until about 4pm.

DAY 10
Weather much improved but West Highland Line still closed at near Tyndrum. I decided to have an early breakfast in the Travelodge and head for Mallaig on the 0822 from Glasgow Queen Street. The train was very lightly loaded and I enjoyed the views from the window as far as Crianlarich where all passengers for Fort William and Mallaig had to board a coach to Glen Orchy. This was all very well organised but not good for people with lots of luggage or elderly people who were not so quick at walking. It was quite a walk down to the coaches on the main road at Crianlarich and even further up the steep narrow lane from the main road to Bridge of Orchy Station. Once everyone had boarded the single Class 156 set off through fantastic scenery to Fort William. Problems began at Fort William with huge crowds waiting to go to Mallaig and the single 156 was totally inadequate. People were given the option of travelling by coach but many chose to remain on the train and stand for a very crowded journey to Mallaig.

I had a wander around Mallaig and had some very good fish and chips. I made sure that I was on the platform early standing close to a door to get on quickly and get a seat for the return journey. Lots more people chose to use the coach and it was not quite so crowded as the outward journey.

The journey back to Glasgow, after Fort William was lightly loaded, and apart from the coach between Bridge of Orchy and Crianlarich was uneventful. I was just able to sit back and enjoy the wonderful scenery although the final part of the journey was in the dark.

A great trip to Mallaig. The scenery was so good that I never got tired of it and spending almost a whole day on a 156 was no problem. The time just flew by.

The West Highland Lone to Mallaig had stunning scenery but for me it did not quite beat Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh but then the weather on that day was perfect.

DAY 11
Journey back from Glasgow to Nottingham. Left Glasgow Central on time and had planned to change trains at Warrington Bank Quay, Crewe and Derby. Unfortunately, the train began to get delayed south of Carlisle and was about 20 minutes late arriving in Warrington. My connecting train was also delayed behind it, which meant missing my connection at Crewe and a wait of nearly 1 hour for the next train to Derby. Quick thinking and a change of plan. I managed to get a bus across from Warrington Bank Quay to Warrington Central and got the Liverpool to Norwich train direct back to Nottingham.
 
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D841 Roebuck

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Thanks for posting. That sounds like a well-thought out, sensible and thoroughly enjoyable holiday, and gives me food for thought for future trips.
 

Andy Pacer

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I agree. I had been planning to do a Spirit of Scotland in July of this year but needless to say the idea was scrapped. Maybe next year...
 

peteb

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A great account. I did a similar trip in 1985 with a friend, youth hostelling! If you ever get the chance to do Kyle to Mallaig by coach via Skye and boat, or just boat, that's a great link and very scenic.
 

seahermit

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Really fascinating and just the sort of trip I am thinking of doing, when the lockdown eases off. It eventually dawned on me that, if I stayed in one base for a few days e.g. Glasgow/Edinburgh/Fort William, distances onward to surrounding areas were not that great and I could see a lot of Scotland by getting up very early and having long days out! Thanks for a mine of background info and context.
 
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