Pullman Dining article in Mail on Sunday Live magazine

[38Cto15E]

You will probably enjoy the article more if you read it online but here is a copy version.

Paddington to Penzance.

For me, it’s the greatest of English railway journeys, a high-speed escape from London’s fumes and fury, a voyage that takes in suburb and sea wall alike.
This is a train where the diesel fumes are scented with nostalgia, the well-worn carpets stained with joy.

Three hundred miles of track, just under six hours of travel unencumbered by roadworks and responsibility, customs and concentration.

All you need do is lean back and drink it in… The dunes of Dawlish Warren. That great expanse of sea and red rock just past Teignmouth. And the precipitous wobble from Devon into Cornwall.
Forget seat belts and sat-navs, strip-searches and stale air. When the train’s running well, there’s no way I’d rather travel.
OK, so once the rose-tinted goggles are off, the downsides are obvious.

The ‘on-track incident’ that sees the train sit still for hours, without explanation.
The salesman glued to his mobile, emitting a deadly combination of business-speak and smuggery.
And the food… well, it’s hardly a match for the landscape flashing past.

Even that bit between Paddington and Slough seems attractive when compared to the wan insipidity of the average cup of coffee.

Sure, things are a little better than a decade back. I have a sneaking lust for the cheese-and-ham panini, with its painted-on grill stripes and tongue-blistering core. And the wine is always passable.
But as I sit back in my chair, munching on a bag of Quavers, my mind turns to the good old days of rail travel, when ornate, even ostentatious Pullman cars served up fresh cooked breakfasts, complete with proper bacon and grilled kidneys.
When the wine list ran to a dozen pages, and tablecloths were snow-white and thickly starched.

Bone china plates bore the train-company logo, and crystal glasses had a satisfactory heft.

You could enjoy potted shrimps and sole meunière, a mixed grill and jam roly-poly. And a glass of brandy or three to wash it all down.
But over the years, it all disappeared, a victim of ever-tightening budgets and half-baked focus groups.

It was nearly two years ago when the last dining car was pulled into the sidings and left to rot. The end of an era, the last puff of railway glamour.
Now, though, the Pullman is back. On that First Great Western line I so adore. When I heard the news, my heart leapt into my mouth with excitement. But then I started to worry.

Another overambitious menu from some Michelin-starred maestro that would work fine for a few weeks. Then sink, slowly, into a mire of mediocrity. On second thoughts, I’d rather stick to my microwaved bacon roll.
Then I found out Mitch Tonks, the man behind the brilliant Seahorse in Dartmouth, was in charge.

Tonks knows his fish, and he has little time for fickle culinary fads.

‘I’ve always bought the freshest and finest seafood from fishermen I know well, and let the produce speak for itself.’

He’s a good friend, but his food is up there with some of the finest I’ve ever eaten: simple, unpretentious and generous.

His seafood stews and deep-fried local prawns linger in the memory long after the plate’s been licked clean.
‘This is a passion project,’ says Tonks as we sit down in the Pullman carriage. It’s the first day of proper service, and the linen tablecloths and napkins have yet to arrive.

'But there are plates embossed with the Pullman logo, and proper cutlery and glasses too.

'It’s not about me or my ego; rather, providing fresh, local food that you really want to eat.’
He takes a bite of scallop so fresh it smells of nothing but sea breeze. He nods and smiles.

‘We need less breadcrumbs on top,’ he says to one of his team, ‘and just one scallop per shell. So you get softness and crunch.’
I take a sip of ice-cold Albariño and grin. Heath and Safety might not allow one of his beloved charcoal-fired Josper ovens on board, but one mouthful and I’m in love.

‘All the fish is delivered daily from Brixham onto the train. So we have total control over quality.’

He smiles again. ‘It’s going OK, so far. I was rather dreading this tasting being a total disaster.’
But it’s Tonks at the helm, and despite his laid-back charm, when it comes to cooking he’s entirely serious.

‘It all started when Phil (Edgerton, head of marketing at First Great Western) came into The Seahorse for lunch. And Iz, my daughter, walked in with a bucket of fresh prawns she’d just caught. I fried them up and put them in front of him.

'And after eating them all, he said, “Why can’t we do this on the train?” It all moved on from there.’


For now, there are just two lunch services from Plymouth, and two dinners down from London.
‘I wanted to do old-fashioned dining, nothing too complicated. But it’s always been a challenge to cook good food on trains. So I worked within the limitations.’
A huge plate of smoked salmon, sweet and subtle, arrives next, from Brown and Forrest in Somerset, with soda bread and a fierce cornichon pickle. Tonks takes a bite of the latter and grimaces.

‘Too tart,’ he says, shaking his head.

‘Keep it simple.’

A tomato-and-burrata salad is plonked down, the cheese from Jody Scheckter’s Laverstoke Park, oozing and gently lactic. Food you actually want to eat.
By the time we pull into Exeter we’ve made short work of gurnard with a walnut-and-mint sauce (again, the fish is astoundingly fresh, falling into fat white flakes).
Then comes a fillet steak, cooked just under medium rare, with a good whack of bovine depth.
And Keen’s Cheddar, and a rich chocolate nemesis cake. We sit – eating, sampling the wines, gossiping – until night draws in and London draws close.
‘We wanted to bring back a little of the glamour of train travel,’ says Edgerton as we pull into Paddington.

We’re 15 minutes late, but for once I’d have liked a proper delay.

Sure, I’m sitting with the chef himself, which always makes for a better experience. And the real test will be to revisit in six months’ time, or a year.

'But with Tonks at the controls (and a charming crew on board), I have faith. This Pullman is one train that will run and run and run.

 

[swj99]

I'm hungry now I've seen that. Looks good.

 

[broadgage]

I'm hungry now I've seen that. Looks good.

It is good
The article above though is inaccurate in at least one respect.
It is implied that pullman dining was withdrawn two years ago and has very recently been re-instated. This is not the case, pullman dining has been available regulary for many years on FGW.

It has is true that the service has been recently re-launched and improved, but even the old pullman service offered until a few weeks ago was very good. The new is even better, though I have only tried it once so far.

It does seem that FGW are at last taking restaurants seriously, rather the than withdrawal by stealth that seemed to be the policy until recently.

2 services daily in each direction is however a very minimal provision, no matter how good those services may be.
Before the Hatfield accident there were 7 restaurants every weekday on services from London to the West, with a similar number on up trains. And a couple to/from Wales.
Restaurant were "withdrawn as tempory measure" asfter Hatfield, most never reappeared.

Perhaps we might hope for a couple more ?
Rumours abound about re-instating one or more return restaurant services, but as yet nothing has happened.

At any rate, enjoy it while we can ! I cant imagine that the new multiple unit trains will have proper restaurants, probably wont even have a hot buffet.

(and yes I know that new trains are not be inflicted on the Penzance route yet, but there seems to be a general view that HSTs are too good for todays railway, and that new trains with higher density seating and minimal catering are the future)

 

[jopsuk]

a proper restauraunt car is a luxury that can only be provided on queiter off peak services- which means it really can't be provided on services that arrive at Paddington in the morning peak or depart there in the evening. Though perhaps there would be more scope if Great Western HSTs were as long as East Coast ones.

 

[broadgage]

a proper restauraunt car is a luxury that can only be provided on queiter off peak services- which means it really can't be provided on services that arrive at Paddington in the morning peak or depart there in the evening. Though perhaps there would be more scope if Great Western HSTs were as long as East Coast ones.

Why ?
The present two services depart London in the evening peak, 18-03 and 19-03.
There would seem to be more demand for dining on busy services.
The train contains the same number of seats regardless as to whether the restaurant is open or not.
I, or any other first class passenger would still occupy the same, or a similar seat if the restaurant fails to appear.
If a standard class passenger uses the restaurant, then whilst they dine it would be reasonable for another standard class passenger to use their seat whilst dinner is taken.
Whilst in theory conflict might arrise when the dining customer returns to their seat and finds it taken by someone else, in practice it is unlikely to be a problem.
The standard class customer would remain in the restaurant until Taunton or Exeter, by which time there are planty of seats.

 

[38Cto15E]

The 1206 Paddington to Penzance is a good service to bring back the Pullman service on with whatever service it works up from Penzance as the opportunity to serve a Pullman style breakfast.

I used to enjoy the occasional lunch on the 1206 although a tad early for me, I know the 1206 now has a travelling chef service but there is nothing like the atmosphere of a proper dining car.

 

[W.Tregurtha]

a proper restauraunt car is a luxury that can only be provided on queiter off peak services- which means it really can't be provided on services that arrive at Paddington in the morning peak or depart there in the evening. Though perhaps there would be more scope if Great Western HSTs were as long as East Coast ones.

I thought all HSTs were the same length.......?

 

[broadgage]

The 1206 Paddington to Penzance is a good service to bring back the Pullman service on with whatever service it works up from Penzance as the opportunity to serve a Pullman style breakfast.

I used to enjoy the occasional lunch on the 1206 although a tad early for me, I know the 1206 now has a travelling chef service but there is nothing like the atmosphere of a proper dining car.

Agree entirely, and IIRC this service used to have a Pullman, pre Hatfield.

 

[yorkie]

I thought all HSTs were the same length.......?

EC HSTs are 9 coaches long.
Grand Central about 6 (but it does vary).
Cross Country are 7 I think.
EMT are 8.
FGW might have a mix of 7 & 8 (or are they all 8? They did have plans to remove buffet cars from the high density sets, but that may have been scrapped)

 

[sprinterguy]

EC HSTs are 9 coaches long.
Grand Central about 6 (but it does vary).
Cross Country are 7 I think.
EMT are 8.
FGW might have a mix of 7 & 8 (or are they all 8? They did have plans to remove buffet cars from the high density sets, but that may have been scrapped)

Grand Central HSTs are either five or six carriages in length; as you say, it varies.

You are correct that Crosscountry's are seven carriages in length, but were originally specified as eight carriage trains when they were refurbished.

All of the First Great Western HSTs are now eight carriages in length. You are correct that the Old Oak allocated "high density" sets had their buffet cars removed a couple of years ago and hence were reduced to 2+7 formations. However these sets have recently had those self-same buffet cars re-inserted into the sets, but after they had been converted to standard class vehicles.

 

[ainsworth74]

You are correct that the Old Oak allocated "high density" sets had their buffet cars removed a couple of years ago and hence were reduced to 2+7 formations.

Well they lost their full size buffets but did gain micro-buffets as a replacement. Just in case anyone thinks that the HD sets don't have any catering facilities whatsoever.

 

[Flamingo]

Grand Central HSTs are either five or six carriages in length; as you say, it varies.

You are correct that Crosscountry's are seven carriages in length, but were originally specified as eight carriage trains when they were refurbished.

All of the First Great Western HSTs are now eight carriages in length. You are correct that the Old Oak allocated "high density" sets had their buffet cars removed a couple of years ago and hence were reduced to 2+7 formations. However these sets have recently had those self-same buffet cars re-inserted into the sets, but after they had been converted to standard class vehicles.

Although from a Catering Staff point of view the mini-buffets are not liked, as a guard, I am delighted when I see I have a train with six standard class coaches. It is amazing the difference those extra 70 sets make!

 

[6Gman]

In what sense is this dining service a "pullman" service?

Or do they just mean "better than the standard service"?

 

[W.Tregurtha]

EC HSTs are 9 coaches long.
Grand Central about 6 (but it does vary).
Cross Country are 7 I think.
EMT are 8.
FGW might have a mix of 7 & 8 (or are they all 8? They did have plans to remove buffet cars from the high density sets, but that may have been scrapped)

I understood that the remark was about East Coast and Great Western HSTs. Sorry.

 

[aylesbury]

FGW provide an excellent first class service and the full dining descibed in the article is a bonus.The Traveling Chef is already proving a good idea and having sampled both first class and the chef I hope othe TOC,s try it out.

 

[broadgage]

In what sense is this dining service a "pullman" service?

Or do they just mean "better than the standard service"?

It is a full meal service, of 3 courses with a choice for each course, silver served at ones seat in the restaurant, coach F, sometimes a few tables in G are laid also.
Only offered on 2 services a day in each direction, which I consider rather paltry, no matter how good it is on those services.
Fairly expensive, but no more expensive than a meal of similar qaulity served elswhere, the fillet steak at £26 compares very well with other restaurants.
The restaurant is open to all ticket holders, but first class customers get priority at busy times.
No other FGW services have restaurants. Quite a few have a travelling chef, which is better than nothing but not to be compared with the pullman restaurant.
The travelling chef is a lot cheaper, but you get what you pay for.
Travelling chef food is meant to be served on a plate and brought to your seat in First, and sometimes is, in steerage it is sold in a cardboard box to take back and eat in your bus seat (tables are VERY last year !)EDIT TO ADD, the above was true when posted, but FGW now operate 6 Pullmans every weekday not 4

 

[ainsworth74]

FGW provide an excellent first class service and the full dining descibed in the article is a bonus.The Traveling Chef is already proving a good idea and having sampled both first class and the chef I hope othe TOC,s try it out.

Unfortunately it won't happen. East Coast, for example, had more than a dozen restaurant services north and sound bound, morning and evening, as well as at-seat dining (as good as, if not better then, travelling chef) on just about every Anglo-Scot and many London - Newcastle/Leeds services. All gone in favour of the complimentary offering that we now have (see the massive thread elsewhere).

VT ditched their restaurants not long after taking over the service and have scaled back even on the catering available on their 390s (any one remember their Primo service?).

GA lost there's around the same to NX took over and I doubt they'll be back as the journey's just aren't long enough and the future of that fleet of rolling stock will probably not include full kitchens (but there are other threads to discuss that).

EMT have the facilities on all their long distance trains but I doubt they'll introduce them as the journeys aren't that long on EMT and they've also cut back on the number of services offering their full breakfast in recent years.

The simple truth is that TOCs just don't do 'proper' catering any more. At one point NXEC were considering ditching all catering on their services other than a trolley in both classes.

That being said I still hold a hope that FGW may introduce more Pullman Dining services (perhaps to/from Wales) in the future, but I don't hold out much.

 

[Flamingo]

You mean reintroduce services to South Wales. There used to be a Pullman which was pulled a few years ago, we trialled a Brasserie service into South Wales last year (kind of Pullman Lite), but that was pulled last Autumn, no idea why.

I remember the lunchtime Pullman too and from Swansea, if it had six people it was busy - most days the staff outnumbered the customers.

 

[ainsworth74]

You mean reintroduce services to South Wales.

Yes, sorry, lazy typing on my part

I remember the lunchtime Pullman too and from Swansea, if it had six people it was busy - most days the staff outnumbered the customers.

Doesn't surprise me, not many people at all will be wanting that kind of food in the middle of the day. I've always been under the impression that the only reason that there are lunchtime Pullmans from Plymouth is to act as a balancing move.

 

[Flamingo]

I used to sell it as a reduced price 1st class upgrade (in the pre advanced tickets days).

 

[F Great Eastern]

May want to check out this, a promotional video from FGW:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DD_0zZj69dY&feature=youtu.be

 

[dfurn]

Hmm in the Youtube clip FGW man said "We're the only UK train operator that has a fine dining silver service restaurant..." Well yeah I suppose the only TOC in the National Rail sense but a good few heritage lines offer a Pullman service.

Wonder if they have to pay a royalty to the Pullman Company which actually was nationalised in 1954 so I suppose maybe still owned by the DfT? Or Network Rail?

 

[bnm]

The Pullman Car Company Ltd is still incorporated as a company. Its parent company is BRB (Residuary) Ltd, which is wholly owned by the Department for Transport.

It's 'book' value as a company has been zero for many years and it is described as 'non-trading'.

From that I'd suggest that, yes, HM Govt. owns the rights to the name 'Pullman' in the UK. I suspect any use of the 'Pullman' name and trademarks would be freely licenced by the DfT to rail transport undertakings.

 

[TEW]

I've always been under the impression that the only reason that there are lunchtime Pullmans from Plymouth is to act as a balancing move.

Mainly but the uptake of lunch on those two services does seem to be up in recent years, not at the levels of the 1803 and 1903 from London but decent none the less.
--- old post above --- --- new post below ---

You mean reintroduce services to South Wales. There used to be a Pullman which was pulled a few years ago, we trialled a Brasserie service into South Wales last year (kind of Pullman Lite), but that was pulled last Autumn, no idea why.

I remember the lunchtime Pullman too and from Swansea, if it had six people it was busy - most days the staff outnumbered the customers.

When the Pullman operation was downsized with the withdrawal of all the South Wales restaurants and the other South West ones they were replaced with the Travelling Chef Select, which was pretty much the same menu, perhaps a few more meal style dishes were offered. That seemed to go fairly quickly but the ex-Pullman services, well at least the Plymouth/Penzance ones, still have extra catering staff on board with a service leader rather than customer host which usually means the service in First Class more attentive and quicker.

 

[38Cto15E]

May want to check out this, a promotional video from FGW:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DD_0zZj69dY&feature=youtu.be

Can someone forward this clip to East Coast?

 

[AlexS]

Hmm in the Youtube clip FGW man said "We're the only UK train operator that has a fine dining silver service restaurant..." Well yeah I suppose the only TOC in the National Rail sense but a good few heritage lines offer a Pullman service.

Wonder if they have to pay a royalty to the Pullman Company which actually was nationalised in 1954 so I suppose maybe still owned by the DfT? Or Network Rail?

Does the WAG Express do any silver service type stuff? When I travelled on it the food was absolutely superb.

 

[a good off]

I'm very pleased that the South West still retains a Pullman dining service. Next I suggest that they reinstate the very missed South Wales Pullman and give people from South Wales and Bristol a decent restaurant train again.

 

[bnm]

I'm very pleased that the South West still retains a Pullman dining service. Next I suggest that they reinstate the very missed South Wales Pullman and give people from South Wales and Bristol a decent restaurant train again.

Hear hear.

I travelled on the 1145 Paddington - Swansea service today. Until 2009 this was a Pullman lunch service. Today it's just the Travelling Chef.

I ordered the 'Gourmet Premium Burger' and was somewhat disappointed by it. Nothing wrong with the presentation, but the burger was bland, lacking any chopped onion in the patty or evidence of seasoning.

http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/tt68/bnm/TCBurger_zps3e7233e5.jpg

For £9.50 it could and should be better. On-train freshly prepared hot food is never going to be cheap, so price isn't my over-riding concern if the quality is up to scratch. The previous Travelling Chef Burger (then known as 'Build Your Own Burger) was much much better. This new incarnation was disappointing.

 

[Flamingo]

Let customer services know in an e-mail, they do keep a close eye on the chefs, and the chefs themselves appreciate feed-back (no pun intended!) both good and bad.

What did you think of the new chips? I haven't tried them, and I have heard mixed reviews.

 

[bnm]

Yup. Already done just that Flamingo!

E-mail to Customer Services always goes out before I take to forums to praise/complain.

Then I can later post about the feedback or further complain about how long the feedback is taking.

As for the chips. Not too bad and I assume they are cooked in the fast convection oven. I didn't ask. However they are cooked they do have a nice 'fried' taste. No way though that chef has a chip pan in the MK3 kitchen....