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Starting a train

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43021HST

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Is this how you start a HST thats at your average station? Firstly you release the train and independant brake. You wait for the brake cylinder to empty. once that has done you move the throttle up a little bit. once the train has reached 10mph, depending on the speed limit you open the throttle out to full. once you have reached the desired speed you turn the throttle down.
 
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MCR247

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yeah that's pretty much it also make sure pantograph is up on EMU's...

yes, but you dont have Electric HSTs..... it says on the first line HST!

Oops
 
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37401

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to start it from engine off you put the key in, set it to eng only as the aws goes off press down on the reverser, start the engine then do as you have said. As done on 43072 :D
 

bluenoxid

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Isn't there some trickery with a clutch and pushing the pedal to the floor :lol:
 

HSTfan!!!

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lol, not so sure about hst, but on the 150, obviously having started the train, cancelled the AWS etc. you depress the vig pedal, move up to first notch, release brakes (acts as a handbrake if you like) then move the handle through the notches at I think it was 2 second intervals and obviously adjust to maintain speed
 

ungreat

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yeah that's pretty much it also make sure pantograph is up on EMU's...


If starting from a station as klambert asks the pan on a EMU will already be up....if it was down you would be doing a full preparation before going anywhere
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Is this how you start a HST thats at your average station? Firstly you release the train and independant brake. You wait for the brake cylinder to empty. once that has done you move the throttle up a little bit. once the train has reached 10mph, depending on the speed limit you open the throttle out to full. once you have reached the desired speed you turn the throttle down.


HST's do not have an independant brake,just train brakes.(By independant I assume you mean loco brake,as regular locos have)

10 mph? No...usually give it the lot until you reach line speed<D

You would not wait for the brake cylinder to empty,you would apply a little power so you didn't "roll back"
 

driver9000

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lol, not so sure about hst, but on the 150, obviously having started the train, cancelled the AWS etc. you depress the vig pedal, move up to first notch, release brakes (acts as a handbrake if you like) then move the handle through the notches at I think it was 2 second intervals and obviously adjust to maintain speed

Off topic a bit, on a 150 you can use the notches as you wish there is no need to wait 2 seconds and you can 'skip' notches if you want to. The pedal is actually called the DSD the vigilance is wired into it on the 150/2 though.
 

HSTfan!!!

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Off topic a bit, on a 150 you can use the notches as you wish there is no need to wait 2 seconds and you can 'skip' notches if you want to. The pedal is actually called the DSD the vigilance is wired into it on the 150/2 though.

thats fair enough, the waiting two seconds thing I was told when I had a go on the arriva simulator in cardiff, sounded a bit odd at the time haha!
 

507 001

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thats fair enough, the waiting two seconds thing I was told when I had a go on the arriva simulator in cardiff, sounded a bit odd at the time haha!

well your supposed build it up slowly but nobody ever does!
 

driver9000

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The reverser on an HST power car doesnt have a 'push down' feature, what you see is the driver putting the master key in the top of it then moving the handle to EO (Engine Only) he resets the AWS by pressing the reset button just behind the reverser with his hand.
 

O L Leigh

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On a Sprinter you would need to select a reasonably high notch just to get the thing rolling. Just selecting notch 1 of 7 won't really have you pulling away smartly.

I don't sign any diesel units, but I had a brief go on a Cl153 on a low adhesion course. While it was nothing like proper instruction, I was told to pull the brake back to step 1 (you can't take power in any higher brake step) and then select notch 4 power or higher. We then had to wait until the engine spooled up before releasing the brake and selecting a higher notch to get the thing up to speed. However, there was never any need to hold the notch for a specific period or that we had to go through the notches.

It seems that each class of train has it's own little quirks of operation to get them going, but the principles always seem to be the same.

O L Leigh
 

driver9000

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On a Sprinter you would need to select a reasonably high notch just to get the thing rolling. Just selecting notch 1 of 7 won't really have you pulling away smartly.

I don't sign any diesel units, but I had a brief go on a Cl153 on a low adhesion course. While it was nothing like proper instruction, I was told to pull the brake back to step 1 (you can't take power in any higher brake step) and then select notch 4 power or higher. We then had to wait until the engine spooled up before releasing the brake and selecting a higher notch to get the thing up to speed. However, there was never any need to hold the notch for a specific period or that we had to go through the notches.

It seems that each class of train has it's own little quirks of operation to get them going, but the principles always seem to be the same.

O L Leigh

A Sprinter will just about move in notch 1 but only useful in a yard or maintaing speed, notch 2 is enough to get initial movement for starting away. Opening up a 156 to notch 4 or higher causes the engine to skip (rev-cut-rev) for some reason. With 153s I find the best way to get them up to speed quickly is to time it so the brake has fully released for when the engine powers up, there is a few seconds delay in the engine reacting to movement of the handle before the engine powers and the brake comes off quite slowly so they can end up dragging their brakes when trying to move.
 
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