Train Sim: AP Class 40 Overheating

[Inversnecky]

Has anyone here experience driving the Armstrong Powerhouse Class 40?

No matter how slowly I accelerate, or how long I coast with throttle idle, the engine temperature consistently rises and always overheats after maybe 20 mins.

Has anyone else encountered this? Presumably there’s an issue with my driving technique, but I’ve just no idea how to overcome this problem.

I’ve reread the manual to see if there’s any pointers, but all I can see is a warning that overtaxing the engine at low speeds can cause overheating, so why should the engine temperature continue to rise and rise when it’s running at a decent speed and the throttle is low or off?

It’s a shame, as it’s an amazing loco.

 

[jp4712]

Are you using the ‘page up’ key to open the radiator shutters?

 

[hexagon789]

Has anyone here experience driving the Armstrong Powerhouse Class 40?

No matter how slowly I accelerate, or how long I coast with throttle idle, the engine temperature consistently rises and always overheats after maybe 20 mins.

Has anyone else encountered this? Presumably there’s an issue with my driving technique, but I’ve just no idea how to overcome this problem.

I’ve reread the manual to see if there’s any pointers, but all I can see is a warning that overtaxing the engine at low speeds can cause overheating, so why should the engine temperature continue to rise and rise when it’s running at a decent speed and the throttle is low or off?

It’s a shame, as it’s an amazing loco.

Have you opened the radiator shutters?

If you don't the loco will overheat when running.

These should be opened at all times during summer and before setting off in winter.

The manual shows how to do it and explains about the loco overheating and what results

 

[Trackman]

I had the same problem.
Keeping the radiator shutters open made no difference.
I’ll have a go later on, I’m sure it does it in one of AP’s scenarios.

 

[Inversnecky]

Thanks to all for contributing replies.

Thinking that the radiator shutters were the only logical culprit, I experimented with the Page Up/Down keys and it turns out that the radiator shutters weren’t fully open at all, though I thought they were.

If I make sure to press page up on every cold start, then the problem is solved. No overheating any more, even with a heavy load on an incline. Engine stays in the green zone.

Looking at the pictures, what to me would look like open vents are actually the closed position, and vice versa.

 

[hexagon789]

Thanks to all for contributing replies.

Thinking that the radiator shutters were the only logical culprit, I experimented with the Page Up/Down keys and it turns out that the radiator shutters weren’t fully open at all, though I thought they were.

If I make sure to press page up on every cold start, then the problem is solved. No overheating any more, even with a heavy load on an incline. Engine stays in the green zone.

Looking at the pictures, what to me would look like open vents are actually the closed position, and vice versa.

Yes, it is a bit deceiving. I assume that although it looks as though the louvres are blocking the intake they are presumably guiding air in

I had the same problem.
Keeping the radiator shutters open made no difference.
I’ll have a go later on, I’m sure it does it in one of AP’s scenarios.

Which scenario? The 'Royal Scot' diversion via the S&C by any chance?

 

[Trackman]

Which scenario? The 'Royal Scot' diversion via the S&C by any chance?

Not the S&C one, could be a MML one.
When I've time I'll fire it up, not had chance yet.