I've surprisingly managed to cram in another trip this year though might be the last one for a while as I've a few things on and there is more to life than bouncing around on a bus! It was a trip back to my native North East; I go back a few times a year but usually only manage an annual trip on buses. This is in marked contrast to the 1980s and 1990s when, free from the constraints of work and family, I used to travel regularly. I spent many days bouncing around on Explorer tickets on Northern, United, Tees and Northumbria vehicles - remember that in those days, none of the former municipals (Darlington, Hartlepool, Cleveland Transit or T&WPTE/Busways) were part of the scheme!
In recent years, I've focussed more on Northumberland, Tyne and Wear, and North Durham so I took the opportunity this time to revisit some of my old haunts further south; it helped that I had some family duties to attend to so I couldn't travel so far afield. I hope you enjoy the report...
I began late, walking the short distance into Darlington town centre, past the DL1 entertainment centre (cinema, cafes/eateries) that is on the site of the former combined bus station/depot where I "enjoyed" many an hour in the dark, miserable surroundings. Instead, Darlington now has no bus station so inter-urban services have long since joined the local routes in using roadside stops scattered across the town centre. I was heading north initially, knowing (I thought) that I'd missed my intended journey by 5 mins. Instead, I would travel to Durham on what was the Sapphire 7. This was one of the original Sapphire routes rolled out by Arriva and gained new Wright Pulsars in 2013 with 2+1 seating, phone charging etc every 15 mins. Sadly, it has now moved to every 20 mins on a Saturday and the route gets a mixture of e400s (to Sapphire spec) and any standard Pulsar. I had one of the latter. It was a spirited ride out of the town centre until we hit temporary traffic lights at Beaumont Hill; I do like Pulsars and whilst they're lighter than the Eclipse, they are good, solid machines that I think are a bit underrated. Scrolling through bustimes on my phone, I suddenly realised that my intended X21 must have been delayed inbound (because of the same lights?) and it was actually following my bus some two minutes behind. Hence, a bit of checking on other times, and I elected to disembark at Newton Aycliffe. Aycliffe (as the locals call it) is a 1950s new town. It has never had a bus station, instead relying on stops around the Thames Centre (don't know why it's called after a Southern river?) and it was a short run from the 7 stop to the X21. Note that the X21 is not express - the X relates to the cross-country nature of the route? In the past, it was the 213 from Darlington to Sunderland via Sedgefield and Peterlee, requiring 4 vehicles (often Leyland Nationals) provided by four depots. Now truncated at Peterlee, it follows the same path across County Durham and is operated by Darlington's gas buses or Pulsars - it was another of the latter for me. I sat back and watched as I passed familiar spots. The Eden Arms at Rushyford (a big hotel on the old A1) now stands forlorn, waiting for likely demolition. Sedgefield is a delightful small town with a big green in the middle and used to be a key interchange point for services though sadly, services are now much reduced. The town also had TWO United depots, inherited from Wilkinsons on the purchase of that firm, and one still stands. The other is now housing, as is the former Winterton Hospital (former county asylum) that I remember passing in my youth. The place was notorious though only because of tall tales of escaped patients when really they were just benign, ill people. Another major site was Fishburn Coking Works and again, I can remember that in existence. Now, the site is redeveloped (more housing) and this is what you see in Co Durham - lots of places where clearly there once was mining or related industry but are now swept away yet street names etc still give the game away.
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Grim up North - a gas bus goes the other direction to Darlington from Trimdon Village
I arrived into Trimdon Village; an odd place to interchange but I'd worked out I could get to Hartlepool from there. My late running meant a shortened spell in the village which was handy as there was nothing open other than the Coop and a bookies! My next steed was the 57A that is the predecessor of the Trimdon Motor Services 236 that ran from Sedgefield to Hartlepool (I think) and bang on time arrived a slightly knackered Solo. This was provided by Durham depot but was proudly displaying its heritage of being used on Darlington locals with its Frequenta identity and other vinyls. Internally, the seats were quite faded and the interior vinyls harked back to an age when Arriva North East actively promoted its services. Mind you, it highlighted how frequencies have declined with Richmond and Middlesbrough both advertised with 20 and 15 min frequencies respectively - they are now 30 and 20 mins. The sun had come out and it was a lovely trip across through the village of Deaf Hill (!) and then towards the coast with the sun glinting off the chilly North Sea and plenty of ships at anchor. I arrived in Hartlepool at the Interchange - four bus shelters next to the train station. Back in the day, United had its own bus station next to the depot; they went in 1993, under the road scheme that links the town and the historic harbour, right by the station and close to where the current interchange is. Mind you, even fewer services serve that (just a few Arriva ones). Town centre stops mention the X35, axed by Go North East a few years ago too. Hartlepool was a frequent destination in the 1980s/1990s and the town has deteriorated since then. It was a vibrant town centre but incrementally, the shopping centre has declined as out-of-town stores have proliferated. In some ways, Hartlepool is a typical northern town - financial woes and a loss of well paid jobs in traditional industries have led to a deterioration in the fabric of many towns and yet the presence of some fantastic buildings points to a former prosperous existence, especially in the Church Square area of town.
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Hartlepool Interchange - you're welcome
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Former grandeur in Hartlepool - note that the road bridge in the distance is on the site of the former bus station though you'd never know
I walked to Victoria Road and waited for the 1 to take me to Seaton Carew, home of the notorious canoeist who ended up in Panama. Now, full disclosure... I've been to Hartlepool loads of times, and travelled about. However, since I left the cold north at the millennium, I've not had so many chances to explore. The old Explorer ticket wasn't valid on Hartlepool Transport and so I've never been to Seaton Carew by bus (though been several times by car). It was a standard Stagecoach e200 that took me through Hartlepool and then past the former Tees now Stagecoach depot and then into Seaton Carew, delivering me rather late to the fine Art Deco bus station. The 1 used to run every 15 mins from Throston Grange to Seaton Carew with an hourly projection to Middlesbrough but at some time, that extension became half-hourly. My late arrival meant a hurried trip to the gents, a quick wander up the steps to take in the view, and then back down to await my trip to Middlesbrough. It duly arrived and, to my surprise, it was a rather elderly Stagecoach Dart. I understand that a number of these were sent north from Yorkshire to replace newer e200s that had MAN chassis and were proving unreliable. It was a stunning journey (and definitely in the right direction) towards Middlesbrough. It's a mix of coastal estuary and salt flats/marshes set againg the heavy industrial backdrop of the nuclear power station, the Abel UK site at Graythorp (where they dismantle oil platforms) and then across to the Billingham petro-chemical works. It's quite the contrast and quite arresting on a cold and clear winter's day. I've never travelled on this road, car or bus, with bus journeys either being on the former Tees 10 (Mboro-Billingham-Hartlepool) or the old 227 (now 36) that does the same but with Stockton added, and I've missed out. The elderly Dart was also in fine fettle, being free from major rattles and bounding along as we entered Port Clarence - a settlement on the north side of the Transporter Bridge that feels so disconnected from the world. I imagine living there is almost an island or a peninsula.
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Seaton Carew bus station - assume it was designed with many holidaymakers in mind?
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Not the best shot but a few from the Dart across the flooded fields towards Port Clarence and Haverton Hill
I arrived at Middlesbrough bus station. Now over 40 years old, this is still one of the best facilities going. It is beginning to show its age but only from a lack of engagement from the council. More bizarrely was arriving to find a craft fair going on in the main concourse area. The travel office is now closed and unused and it has a faint whiff of neglect. In 2018, the then mayor was proposing to redevelop the site for an innovation village with people suggesting the bus station could be relocated near the rail station as part of the Middlehaven redevelopment; a bus station located close to rail but separated from the main traffic objective (town centre) by both the rail line and the elevated A66 dual carriageway. Thankfully, such a daft idea seems to have abated. I popped out into the nearby shopping development to find food and was shocked to see how many empty retail units were adjacent. Thankfully, coffee and a sausage roll were purchased! I went back inside the bus station and went to get my next bus. Now, I don't often bother about the buses themselves; I don't "bash" numbers or get too excited about specific vehicles or the absolute need to have a double decker. I usually worry about the journey and scenery or whatever. However, I did make a special plan in this instance. I'd travelled on the Temsa Avenues operated by Arriva when they were relatively new. They seemed reasonably robust at that time even if a couple did catch fire (not with me on board) and the seating was functional. They oddly had additional box heaters fitted on the floor (very 1960s) and their origins as a citybus were evident in the grab poles and other design features. I was interested to see how they'd fared, having not been on one for 9 years. So I decided to catch the 64 to Eston (which I knew would be Temsa operated), from where I could easily get a 63 to Redcar, my intended destination. My machine duly arrived and it was actually surprisingly good. Very few rattles, a decent refurb and the interior advertising had been updated. That said, it was a bit careworn with the floor/plastics and rather grubby but a surprisingly nice machine. We headed off through Cargo Fleet and then to South Bank - a place that seems, even more, a byword for decline with whole streets having been demolished. It was bleak. We then headed up through Normanby and into Eston where I got off whilst the Temsa headed off to Grangetown. Eston is actually a fairly pleasant place that nestles under Eston Nab, an outcrop of rock that is part of the Cleveland Hills. It was the place where ironstone was first obtained and led to the now-gone Teesside iron and steel industry. Oddly, this place had a number of murals on gable ends commemorating this history. However, with a number of union jacks on buildings, it felt like I was in a unionist town in Northern Ireland. The small central square has a few shops though the 1970s precinct had nothing other than a Turkish Barbers still going plus a couple of closed shops; it really feels depressing and yet it is actually a nice place.
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Inside my initial Temsa Avenue
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My initial Temsa and more tributes to the past
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Mural action and the aforementioned Eston Nab in the background behind the roofs
I patiently waited for my 63 to Redcar and it was another Temsa Avenue of the same batch as I'd just experienced. Arriva NE had taken an initial 15 but later got 7/8 more that had been built for Arriva Bus and Coach (as dealer stock) but when no buyer came forward, they too went to Redcar! Despite being the same age as my first Temsa and having also been refurbished, this was a lot scruffier inside. Lots of scuffs and rattles were evident as we headed at pace towards the former ICI Wilton petrochem complex and then dragged our way around some Redcar estates before arriving in the town centre, passing the Morrisons where the United/Tees/Arriva depot once stood. The town bus station (a rudimentary affair at the far end of the High Street) has also now gone with Arriva having an office by the town clock though I don't know if the public is tolerated. I saw my next bus waiting, with a Sapphire spec Wright Streetlite on the X3 bound for Lingdale. This route was once part of the Darlington to Lingdale service (a 5 hour round trip) but I was only going to Skelton. As we exited Redcar and passed through a non-descript housing estate, I spotted the Redcar sound mirror. This is a strange concrete structure but it was built during WW1 as an early form of radar, using a concave bowl to listen out for approaching German Zeppelin airships, funnelling the sound wave into a central ear trumpet. I must have passed it before but I'd never noticed it. We continued to travel out to Marske by the Sea, and then to Saltburn where a whole family boarded and were pleasantly surprised to hear about the two pound fixed fare. The Streetlite was naturally a bit less comfortable than the heavier Temsa but it wasn't bad as we climbed into the hills for Skelton where I exited.
Dusk was falling fast and I was keen to head back. The 5 to Middlesbrough was expected, and this was another route that I used a lot in the 1980s/1990s. Rather than a knackered National or rudimentary Bristol LH, today's fleet is now dominated by Streetlites and Pulsars and they are so much better than in the past, though my Pulsar was a bit tatty. Sadly, service frequencies have diminished and the former 15 min headway to Loftus now gets reduced to half hourly east of Guisborough. I'd chosen this route in order to enjoy a dusky vista across Teesside from the hills near Skelton and then from the top of Ormesby Bank (which is quite the view) but it was now a bit too dark and you could only see the glittering street lamps and industrial lighting of the major engineering sites. Still, the loading was quite good with a group of three women in their 40s leaving for an early start to their evening out, all dolled up. They departed at Guisborough with two women, probably 20 at the most, getting on and adhering to the northern stereotype with strappy stillettos, bare legs and insufficient clothing for the climate but the look is what is important! The Pulsar was in good health but I noticed we were behind time which meant my zero minute connection in Middlesbrough was looking shaky, and more so as we continued to collect people into Middesbrough. Arriving two mins late, I resigned myself to a 30 min wait but no, in the central parking area was an X66 with an arriving driver, and a tell tale queue at the stand. I got up ready to get off my bus as quickly as possible. The woman in the seat behind the driver, then stood up to exit before me and halfway down the ramp from the stand, stopped to check her purse!! Fortunately, you then decided it was a stupid place to stop and allow me to go full Forest Gump running down that part of the bus station to the end where the X66 was now loading. I got there in time and ready to head back to Darlington. The X66 is a sort of express. It's the hybrid child of the old fast express between Middlesbrough and Darlington (X14) and the old stopper service (268 or 98) that went via Stockton and the villages. This one sprints off to Stockton, gets bogged down in Hartburn before going along the A66 and then through parts of north Darlington before arriving in the town centre. My fourth Pulsar of the day, this was very tired internally and branded for the local Teesside 8. It was certainly better than the knackered Solo I had last time on this route, and a very healthy loading needed the capacity. We made good time and whilst late leaving, we were nearly on time on arrival. It was then a short walk past the former Darlington Transport offices and through the Market Place and Feethams and back "home".
As with earlier trips to the North East, it feels that there's a group of committed Arriva local managers and staff valiantly trying to maintain a service and standards yet hamstrung by continued underinvestment and a lack of focus on developing the business. It's all quite sad and the fleet is now looking very middle aged. Stagecoach was much better but I have to applaud the fact that every journey ran as advertised. It was a real trip down memory lane, even if there were reminders all around about how the bus network, and the general health of the region, has declined in 30 years. All a bit depressing at times but there's a lot to explore and enjoy and you do get one of the best multi-operator tickets with Explorer NE.
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My Pulsar back from Middlesbrough in a dark but attractive Darlington