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Black and White 35mm

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142094

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Anyone still using a film camera these days, or has everyone gone digital?

I've been using an old Canon AV-1 for a couple of weeks, but I don't really have any experience with b+w or film cameras. Suppose time will tell when I get the negatives developed.

Anyone got any tips in general for film photography? Some examples of your work would be good to see as well.
 
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Peter Mugridge

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I use 35mm film, but colour - not black and white, but I guess the basics are exactly the same...
 

142094

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I've been using Ilford XP2 as colour do not really interest me on film, would make the digital pointless. I like the effects you can get with a b+w picture compared to the same if you change the settings on a compact to get b+w.
 

Bill EWS

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Every digital image is capable of being converted to B&W, so there is no reason not to take B&W photos. Most digital cameras will allow you to take B&W, but, of course any colour image can be converted on your computer.

The pros & cons of this is more to do with the printing than the image format, in that you may not be as happy with B&W computer printing as with the physics of chemical processing. There used to be a massive difference between the two but digital printing may well have caught up by now! It's all a matter of choice.

I often convert colour to B&W but I don't do much computer printing these days, colour or otherwise.
 

455driver

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I still use slide films although my camera (EOS500) lens is getting a bit worn.
 

Sam Bentley

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Anyone still using a film camera these days, or has everyone gone digital?

I've been using an old Canon AV-1 for a couple of weeks, but I don't really have any experience with b+w or film cameras. Suppose time will tell when I get the negatives developed.

Anyone got any tips in general for film photography? Some examples of your work would be good to see as well.

Not used my my film camera for 6 years now, having made the great leap to digital.

The rules for good photography apply to both film and digital:

Ideallly your pictures need to be well exposed, sharp and with a decent composition. If you're taking pictures of a moving train, you will need to pay particular attention to the shutter speed, to make sure you get the effect you're looking for.

The tips for your camera would be;

RTFM

always carry spare batteries and film. Your camera won't work without a battery.

IIRC, your camera is pre DX coding, so you will need to set the fim speed manually.
 

142094

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IIRC, your camera is pre DX coding, so you will need to set the fim speed manually.

Yes that's right, should be using the same film throughout so that shouldn't need changing. Ony other problem is that the shutter speed is automatic, although I can change the aperture.
 

jrhilton

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How are you going to print them, in my mind that is the key question?

If you are going to develop and then just scan and archive/print using a computer then use Ilford XP2 film. It can be processed at almost any lab using the same chemicals as colour film. The real advantage is it is really really easy to scan compared to most b&w film, and scanners can use IR dust removal on the film which can often be a life saver for 35mm, yet they can't with normal silver based b&w film (e.g. Ilford FP4+).

If you are going to print in a a traditional darkroom, then I would go for something like Ilford FP4+ or if you want a bit more punch in the image try Ilford Delta 100. Both are easy films to enlarge from, and in fact are both really easy to process yourself too.

Not so sure about the quality control of Kodak film these days, I am convinced it is not as good these days as Ilford, but anyway, use Plus-X or TMAX (for a bit more punch), or BW400CN if you are scanning, assuming that hasn't been discontinued like its previous version.

Go for 100ISO if you have enough light, as 400ISO tends to get grainy fast in 35mm.

If you have the time/space get some used b&w processing/enlarging darkroom kit of eBay, it is dirt cheap these days, they real fun with b&w comes int he darkroom when you start enlarging and toning prints etc.

On the flip side, something like a Canon 5Dmk2 with Photoshop and an actual scan of 35mm film grain superinposed over an edited image can look identical to b&w 35mm scanned stright.
 

142094

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Probably will be just taking them to the local camera shop to be developed. Chose to use XP2, as you say, due to the fact it can be developed using the same stuff as colour film. At the minute I'm just experimenting, trying to get some good shots of infrastructure and not just trains. Sort of will be an extension to the hobby I guess. Something a bit different to the normal picture of a train.
 
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