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St Petersburg to Helsinki "Allegro" train

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Last week, I went on the “Allegro” high speed tilting train from St Petersburg (Finlyandsky railway station) to Helsinki. This is a journey of approximately 430 km and takes 3 hours 36 mins. The new “Allegro” service, using Pendelino tilting trains was launched in December 2010 and has reduced the journey by approximately 90 mins on the previous locomotive hauled service. The journey time reductions have also been achieved by streamlined immigrations and customs procedures, no longer changing locomotives at the border and track upgrade.

More here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allegro_(train)

After spending a few days in Russia, rather than fly out of St Petersburg and back to London, I thought it would be interesting to take the train out of Russia. I booked a ticket for the Allegro train online at Finnish state railways (VR) www.vr.fi . It wasn’t cheap: €86 for a one way ticket even though the ticket was booked several weeks beforehand. I think you can get a cheaper €39 one way fare if you travel on the first train of the day. You need to provide your passport number when booking online. You can’t choose a seat. The ticket comes as an email.

I was interested in taking this service for several reasons.

• The line has historical importance: In April 1917, Lenin smuggled himself into St Petersburg from Helsinki on this very line. Indeed, the St Petersburg (Finlylandsky terminus) is on Lenin Square and there’s a statue of Lenin too.

• Customs and immigration checks are conducted while the train is on the move. I was wondering how this would work in practice on train travelling from Russia to a Schengen zone country. Every passenger on the train has a visa: either Europeans leaving Russian or Russians entering Schengen.

• Much of the route has been upgraded and I was wondering what line speed would be like and the use of the tilt mechanism.

For the 15:25 departure from St Petersburg (Finlylandsky station), I arrived at 15:10. I wish I’d arrived earlier: there wasn’t quite enough to enjoy the full splendour of Lenin Square and the statue of Lenin adopting “Peace, bread, land” pose. Even though you can see the distinctive “Allegro” train beyond the departure board, an English notice directs you to a poorly marked entrance down a side street specifically for this “international” train. Once you go through this entrance, you put your bags through a x-ray machine and walk into the platform to train. No ticket check, no passport check. The Allegro platform is clearly segregated from the rest of the station. As you board the train, ticket and passport are checked by the conductor. It appeared that all the staff where from VR.

The train left spot on time at 15:25.

As soon as you take your seat, announcements and LED displays remind you that you are in a “customs control zone” until Vyburg. Vyburg is an hour down the line and the last and only other station calling point in Russia. In practice, “customs control zone”, means everyone remain in their seats until the Russian have completed their on board inspection. First, there’s passport inspection. The immigration official open the tray table at your seat, puts down what is certainly the passenger list for the coach, checks off your name, retains your immigration card, swipes and then stamps your passport. Next there custom’s with quick visual inspection of luggage on the racks with each passenger asked about their luggage, contents, medicine and any money.


For the Russian part of the trip, the speed was mostly 200 km/h as we raced through a procession of commuter stations with local trains parked up in passing loops and sidings. After, it’s a mixture of forest and open countryside of the Leningrad Oblast. I wanted to step on the platform at Vyborg but by carriage doors remained shut. After Vyborg, I visited the restaurant car – just for a visit. Using GPS, I worked out when we would approach the border. I started to film but was asked to leave the restaurant in readiness for Finnish customs and immigration control.

The train crossed the border at around 30 km/h on a single track. The border was clearing in the forest, pre-empted with warning signs and sentry post with a guard. I’m curious how the border is monitored as there’s no fence.

A few moments later we stopped at Vainikkala, the first Finnish station. Two Finnish immigration and at least four customs officers boarded the train. Between Vainikkala and Kouvola, the immigration officers checked all passports. Customs followed with a visual inspection of racks and some passengers asked more questions.

On the Finnish side, I became aware of the tilt, so I wonder if it’s not used on the Russian side. After much single track between Vybourg and Lahti, for the last 45 minutes of the run into Helsinki the train use a new high speed alignment travelling at 220km/h and a quadruple track upgrade through the suburbs into the Finnish capital. We arrived on time.

It was a great experience travel on this international train. Controls were intrusive but efficient. The train was smooth, spacious and comfortable.

A great experience and I’ve made a 7 minute video of the whole St Petersburg tour and trip on the Allegro train which you can watch here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6384sdXQVJs&feature=share&list=UUmvWgfOkQ4Iwm20iQk9PgTA
7 min 20 secs. Requires sound
 
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Altnabreac

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Sounds like a really good journey option for accessing Russia.

Last time I got a Russian cross border train (sleeper from Moscow to Talinn) there was a heavy and unsubtle shakedown for bribes by the Russian customs officers at the border. Only the fact I deliberately had no cash on me saved me from paying.

This sounds like a much more professional operation.
 

Gordon

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.

With reference to this route, I visited St Peterburg (* correct spelling see note below!) on a Cunard cruise in 2011, east of Helsinki we interacted several times with St Peter Line ferries, which I had not come across before (at one time I was the shipping compiler for Thos Cook Tiemetables so I know my ferries)

I'm slightly baffled by the fact that the St Peter Line ferry service Helsinki - St Peterburg seems to be quite popular despite the apparent ease of land travel between the two cities.

As one of our city guides stressed vehemently during our visit, we are in St Peterburg, named after Peter the Great so no 's' needed - "there is only one St Petersburg and that's in Florida!"



.
 

stut

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However much they may insist on it, the English name of the city is indeed "St Petersburg" - "Sankt Peterburg" is the transliteration of the Russian.
 
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Sounds like a really good journey option for accessing Russia.

Last time I got a Russian cross border train (sleeper from Moscow to Talinn) there was a heavy and unsubtle shakedown for bribes by the Russian customs officers at the border. Only the fact I deliberately had no cash on me saved me from paying.

This sounds like a much more professional operation.

Even though immigration and customs were pretty officious with questions and stamps and visual inspections of luggage, it was a professional and slick operation.

If the Russians can do on board passport examinations, then so can UKBA. If UKBA did do onboard inspections, we'd be spared this Lille loophole nonsense.
 

the sniper

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Thanks for the insight Shinkansen, I quite fancy doing that trip myself in the future.
 

rf_ioliver

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Glad you enjoyed it. Personally I haven't had the chance to ride on the Allegro yet, only on Sibelius and Repin which it replaced.

Just a note about the route. From St.Petersburg to Vyborg there is no tilt and the train should reach 200kmh. From Vyborg to Vaalimaa (the border), there is single track, which then continues to the junction where the line to Joensuu branches off. It is then double track from there via Kouvola and Lahti and then down the "Oikorata" at 220kmh via Kerava into Helsinki. From Kerava south I think it is only 160kmh...would need to check...

The train stops at Vyborg, Vaalimaa, Kouvola, Lahti, Tikkurila, Pasila and Helsinki. Vyborg, Kouvola and Lahti are large cities, Tikkurila is for the connection to the airport, Pasila just 3km north of Helsinki is a major interchange point. Vaalimaa is for border checks and the "removal" of persons for various reasons.

It must be admitted that the introduction of Allegro has boosted the number of passengers significantly. Though VR refuses to run a train from Tampere to St.Petersburg via Riihimaki and Lahti for some reason....politics :(

t.

Ian (living in Finland)
 

trainosaurus

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I travelled on it a couple of years ago and was really impressed with just about everything. I travelled Helsinki - St Petersburg and a flight to Helsinki with BA plus the train ticket worked out cheaper than a flight to Russia direct. It was the start of a three month trip so time was on my side (I subsequently travelled on to Moscow, Ulan Bator, Beijing and through China and SE Asia).

Definitely recommend it as a good way into Russia, it's an exemplary cross-border HS service.

And much to my delight Seat 61 features a couple of my pictures from the train too!
 
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