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Night time photography

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ACE1888

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Never really tried, but when using my camera, it doesn't come out 'sharp' I put it on 'Night' mode but obviously I am not doing something right, might sound like 'basic' error, but what do i need to do to stop 'bluring' of night time shots?? My camera is a Nikon Coolpix L110...do i need a tripod or something? Different setting etc?? Any help gratefully recieved:D
 
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matt

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Never really tried, but when using my camera, it doesn't come out 'sharp' I put it on 'Night' mode but obviously I am not doing something right, might sound like 'basic' error, but what do i need to do to stop 'bluring' of night time shots?? My camera is a Nikon Coolpix L110...do i need a tripod or something? Different setting etc?? Any help gratefully recieved:D

Yes a tripod or something steady to rest it on will help greatly. Also if you camera has the feature use the timer delay to take the photo as this will prevent you moving the camera when taking the photo.
 

GB

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Non moving object + Tripod + Long exposure + low ISO (low as possible) = decent night photos.
 

Bevan Price

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Not got that type of camera so cannot comment on technical details. Tripod preferable, but not vital if you can stand still - really still. I have managed sharp exposures with exposure times as little as 1/5th second (without flash). Best to have a fairly largish camera (DSLR) rather than a pocket-size camera (easier to hold the camera steady). Set camera to highest ISO setting available without excessive signal noise. Stand with feet fairly far apart, lean back on suitable wall or post if available, and hold camera in front of your face using optical viewfinder rather than a monitor screen. Carefully press shutter. Check exposure on monitor screen - delete if not sharp and try again. With practice (and no gales..), I find I get at least 50% of reasonable exposures.
Photo of 45305 partway down this page was hand-held at night:

http://www.bevanprice.me.uk/Liverpool LimeSt_1.html
 

ACE1888

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Non moving object + Tripod + Long exposure + low ISO (low as possible) = decent night photos.
Without trying to sound 'thick':roll: what does 'ISO' stand for, and details of what 'long exposure' involves??
Many thanks for the other information posted, much appreciated :D
The tripod sounds a great idea to me for starters...
 

GB

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ISO stands for International Organization for Standardization. Why ISO is not known as IOS I don't know.

But within photography it simply refers to how sensitive the film or sensor is to light. The higher the ISO number the quicker the exposure will be but too high and the image quality will suffer and you will notice image noise or grain.

A low ISO number during night photography will minimise image noise but will cause the exposure to be longer, hence why a tripod is a good idea.
 

wensley

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In essence, in this respect at least, exposure is pretty much your shutter speed, also influence by aperture as well as ISO. Depending on the light you will be looking at anything from 1/5sec to 3", that's with a fairly low aperture, 1/80sec is generally accepted as the point at which you will start to notice hand-shake so I would say a tripod is a must. Depending on your subject, if it'll stay still, I'd raise the aperture to ensure the background and foreground are in focus and go for a longer exposure, maybe more than 10". If it's going to move pretty soon aim on a lower aperture, and a faster shutter speed!

Hope that made sense :)
 

pappleby

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just to add to all the excellent answers, i would advocate an 'external shutter release' to compliment the tripod, that's if your camera accepts one of course,readily available on E-bay!
 

wensley

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just to add to all the excellent answers, i would advocate an 'external shutter release' to compliment the tripod, that's if your camera accepts one of course,readily available on E-bay!

Very good tip! If not your camera will almost certainly have a timer function, use the 2sec one and stand clear so the camera doesn't wobble.
 

Track Basher

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Night photography is tricky to perfect and does have an element of trial and error involved. Of all my different cameras I have never found one that does it correctly with automatic setting you have to do this yourself.

Essential equipment

  • Tripod
  • Camera you are able to set manual exposure and apature
  • Shutter release cable

You can do it using time delayed exposure and pressing the shutter release button if you don't have a shutter release cable.

If you are attempting to do this hand held you are making life difficult for yourself. Too many other things to do.

You need to select a station to do this that has a reasonable amount of lighting to do this well as using flash is not a good idea. You could very quickly find yourself thrown off the station.

  1. Select a suitable night fine and not windy. Rain and wind are added complications you do not need when learning how to do this
  2. Turn off any shake reduction and auto focus features on your camera. I find auto focus is vot very good in low light, better to do it by eye. Shake reduction can intoduce movement when using a tripod.
  3. Place your camera on the tripod with shutter release fitted
  4. Pick a subject that is stood and will be for some time allowing lots of exposures with different settings to be taken
  5. Set up your camera with the shot you want and focus
  6. In full darkness with station lights start at 10 seconds F8 exposue
  7. See how that looks and adjust the shutter speed not the apature. Longer exposure for lighter shorter for darker

You will get a feel for how it is going looking at the preview on the camera. In low light conditions you will find huge variation between differnet camera makes models. You need to find the optimum settings with yours.

Try different settings. Don't worry about the number taken there is very little cost attached to digital images. It is very difficult to take a good night shot from one photo. I have to take several and fine tune as I go. I also find that the exposure is not the same on the camera preview as on the PC when you get them home.

Look at the images on your PC and work out which is best. The exposure of each photo is shown in windows. This will give you a good feel for your starting position on the exposure with the amount of light available.

In your area Penzance in not a pad place to start as you have a lot of terminating trains so they sit for a while. The only problem is the light is very orange there from the elevated road lights. You may need to colour balance the pictures but that is a whole different discussion.

If you want to see some of my efforts see the link below. There are some night shots at Paddington in the earlier months 2011 folder. There are a few in other years as well.

If you want to post some of your attempts quite happy to have a look and try and give some constructive comments.

This is difficult to master but very rewarding when you do.
 

wensley

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Trial and error is often the way!! I'm attending an EMRPS photo-shoot at Bury in February and am hoping for decent conditions, will by my first attempt at a shoot with staged lighting, so fingers crossed :D

Although not strictly night, this shot was taken in rapidly failing light, just as dusk was setting in and the train lights started to look effective:
6401419209_212095d430.jpg

My settings here (using tripod and external shutter release), were ISO 100, F4.5, 1/2sec.

A couple of more recent night shots here...not perfect but I'm reasonably happy
6550647195_9d73246131.jpg

180103 at Doncaster West Yard, receiving very little light. The single spotlight was more of a hinderance than anything else - notably detracting from the overall image. Settings, (didn't have by shutter release so used tripod and timer), ISO 250, F4.5, 1.3"
6550740465_b83af9abee.jpg

Same setup as above, I think this has worked but would welcome comments. ISO 100, F11, 5"

Hope these offer some pointers to you, I'd also welcome any tips from others with slightly more night-shooting experience than myself - I've generally stuck to day shots!
 

GB

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P7176460-L.jpg


This is probably my best night effort.

8 second exposure
f/6.3
ISO 100
 

Track Basher

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I have wanted to try a EMRPS photo charter but seem to be unable to be able to join them. Can't get anyone to reply to emails.

You photos are OK and the best you could do with the lighting conditions.

Personally I hate dull dusk. The worse of all worlds. You just can't get anything to work well.

You are right about the spotlight at Doncaster this does not help it just causes reflected light particularly at the back end of the 180. However it would have been there you would not have had any illumination at all. You are correct your basic problem is there is not enough light at all to make it work well.

It works best if you have some ambient light.

GB - Nicely done.
 
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wensley

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With regards EMRPS, I am not a member, saw a night shoot at ELR mentioned on the RSG site which had been opened up to the public, I emailled them and I've got a place for the 4th Feb. I am, however, looking at becoming a member as I may well be moving to 'their neck of the woods' in coming months!

Thanks for confirming my thinking! The Donny shot was really for the record, I wasn't expecting anything astonishing. I was, however, pleased with the others but as you say the dull dusk makes the photo lacking in depth and contrast, at Leeds, a bit darker would actually have been an improvement.

Like GB's shot...I'm sure I have some more examples pre-DSLR somewhere....
 

anthony263

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I have found night photography to be difficult. I normally take at least 3 shots of each subject say a FGW class 165 at Reading or Greenford and at least 1 will be very good.

The best night shot I have ever managed to get was of a class 153 at Swansea in 2010.

I do agree with the suggesttion of a tripod as I have found even the slightest vibration can ruin a good shot.

Best piece of advice I can give is to keep practicing took me a while to do it but the majority of night shots I take now are pretty good.
 

wensley

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I have found night photography to be difficult. I normally take at least 3 shots of each subject say a FGW class 165 at Reading or Greenford and at least 1 will be very good.

The best night shot I have ever managed to get was of a class 153 at Swansea in 2010.

I do agree with the suggesttion of a tripod as I have found even the slightest vibration can ruin a good shot.

Best piece of advice I can give is to keep practicing took me a while to do it but the majority of night shots I take now are pretty good.

Would be nice to see some :)
Practice is most certainly the way, take plenty shots on different settings and see what works!

That's been my approach so far...and it seems to have served me OK. For the last year I have also used full 'M' mode for nearly all of my shots in daylight and have found its a lot easier to work out the settings roughly before starting shooting, something I couldn't do when I first started, opting for many many test shots instead!
 

GB

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I would also suggest that if your camera supports it, shoot in RAW format as it will give you alot of freedom after you have taken the photo to correct any mistakes.
 

wensley

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Just had a quick look on Google...looks like you can get an external shutter release for your Coolpix which will certainly help!!

RAW is something I have never used very much but keep telling myself I should, as when I have used it the options for post-production corrections is far superior than working with a JPEG, which can be a bit tricky in Photoshop.
 

33056

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I got some rather strange effects when photographing the steam excursions at York in Dec. Obviously the orange station lights create an unusual colour palette.
That is why it is best to shoot RAW files as you can change the colour balance and temperature a lot easier than jpegs. It is not easy; I often get one bit looking OK only to find that something else looks "off" for example, the purple looks OK (to me at least), but other bits have a green tinge.

p408493195-3.jpg


This is the best I can do with two completely different light sources, the shunter is actually black!

p485015395-3.jpg


I did shoot the above as a jpg as well, but ended up binning it as I just could not get it anywhere near looking right.
 

Temple Meads

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I've always found Exeter St Davids a good place for night shots, I only use a 6mp compact but I often get decent pictures there.

Perhaps a bit off topic, but something to bear in mind ;)
 

wbbminerals

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My first attempt at a night shot with my Nikon D3000; I think it's a little over exposed. 18mm ISO 100 1.6" & f/3.6.
 

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anthony263

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My first attempt at a night shot with my Nikon D3000; I think it's a little over exposed. 18mm ISO 100 1.6" & f/3.6.

No idea what you are worrying for, that is actually a very good night shot which i can't find any faults with.


Now I will have to see what I can come up with on my visit to Bristol on friday
 

wensley

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Having had a second look at it (!) I can see why you're saying it's over-exposed and I would agree to a certain extent, the nose is fine, the yellow is perfect and the number is clear to read, the bodyside and platform are, however quite light in colour and a little bit of detail may have been lost by exposing for a touch too long. Maybe 2" might have done the job a little better. That said, however, it's a cracking shots and if I were you I would be very happy with it for a first attempt. :)
 
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