12th September Onwards to the West Highlands, Day 4
I awoke after a decent nights sleep on the bunk bed and headed towards Banavie station with some time to spare before the first Glasgow bound service would arrive at around 07:17. As expected it was the return of 156474 after alighting from it the night before and as it has a 20 minute turnaround at Fort William it allowed me time to make a quick dash to the nearby Morrisons for something warm for breakfast, plus a newspaper & lunch for later (more of a just in case the shop at Spean Bridge was closed or didnt have much in the way of supplies).
On the opposite table sat a guardian of the door and would give evil looks to anybody who didnt close the little sliding door behind them, even slamming it closed, almost catching another passenger boarding (not the most pleasant of gentlemen, Ive come across a couple like that before on railtours who think leaving the sliding door open behind you is a crime worst than murder, even when someone is following close behind). Anyhow back onto the 156 as it made its way across the moor as myself and around 9 others alighted at the local door only shack of
Corrour, it will be all downhill from here.
One of the most remote stations in GB, the nearest road being a good distance away, a station hotel/restaurant next to the passing loop (which I believe doesnt get used due to being manually operated), but quite frankly Corrour is my new favourite station, such beauty being so isolated. I had a quick walk to take a picture of the Corrour summit sign and a wonder around before heading back to the tiny island platform (which oddly must be one of the few platforms on this line which hasnt got a loose stone surface). Before I did this move I made sure the sleeper was actually on time this morning and thankfully there wouldnt be a repeat of the day before with a monster delay as I flagged down the loco
Corrour Station
Would I get lucky with the 73/9 getting swapped around in Edinburgh with a different one coming back to Fort William? Nope, for it was the return of the former 73117, otherwise known as 73970. Due to the tiny platform here at Corrour entry was via the guard door only for myself and another person (who was already at the station when the 156s arrived so probably someone who spent the night in the area), I put my request in to the guard as it was another request stop, back across the beautiful moor to reach
Roy Bridge.
A basic single platform station, with disused former platform overgrown from when it used to be a passing loop, steps back up to a narrow road bridge for a little lane to join the main road (which was busy, please note dont try and walk along the road to the next station for the pavement runs out and you havent got verges to walk alongside), crossing over the River Roy to reach a little bus stop lay by, opposite a village hall and little shop. My next move was via a bus, thankfully no flagging down required as the bus starts its journey from Roy Bridge (and carries on to somewhere in Fort William), it was a Stagecoach Highlands route 41 service, formed of bus 47813 (so close to getting a dud bus!). I handed over my money for the short trip (around 2 and a bit miles) to reach the village of Spean, crossing over the River Spean and passing several tourist places plus a local Spar. I had a quick look to pass the time and came out with a nice cold bottle of pop before carrying on my short walk to
Spean Bridge. A double platform station with a road bridge to get between platforms, and a restaurant in the former station building (which did look reasonable prices for food, with adverts of a selection of locally brewed ales on tap
), after a couple pictures I took up a seat on the platform [right hand side running here] to read the newspaper and a catchup with the internet.
156492/156499 rolled in from Mallaig forming the next Glasgow service as the services are timetabled to pass here, so it was only a short wait before a busy 156477 rolled in with 156496 along for the ride, no seat reservation labels were in place due to a printer fault at Glasgow, so all hell broke loose at Fort William for the usual large swap over of passengers as groups looked for their seats only to find them already taken, so having to be split up. Like the day before it was local door only at every station along the way to Mallaig, with the guard working hard to check tickets and grab any requests for the 3 tiny request stops along the way. Nobody wanted Locheilside as the train sped back up, as after crossing over a viaduct, I alighted at
Glenfinnan station. One of the passing points on this route, but be warned if either train is longer than 3 carriages it blocks the barrow crossing. A quick wonder around the station with a couple old carriages in the car park used as restaurants I eventually located one of the entrances to the footpath back towards the viaduct (the other one is on the opposite platform, which I must have overlooked).
A strong word of warning, if you dont have decent footwear, stick to the road to reach the viaduct, the footpath is still in the process of being constructed so in places it is a muddy path with large stone steps both leading uphill and downhill. I took care as the stones were wet from the rain the day before (as thankfully it was currently dry but overcast), however the walk across the mountain was worth it for the views of the lochs and for the ultimate view of the wonder of engineering known as the Glenfinnan viaduct, in my view the best viaduct in Britain. I was in awe of this amazing feat (sorry if this sounds like a BBC 4 documentary)
Glenfinnan Viaduct from the path
Yes it was made of concrete, due to the remote nature of this area, crossing over the River Finnan, set back from the road and visitor centre with a lot of tourists once down from the Trail. Anyhow after swinging via the visitor centre for a postcard of the classic scene of the Jacobite steam train passing over (sadly lacking a flying Ford Anglia
) I headed to the bus stop for the route 500 coach to Mallaig, once more in the hands of Shiel Buses as it was the same coach as the Monday (YX14 SEO) as I paid for a single towards Morar village.
Going by bus allowed me to spot the Loch Nan Uamh Viaduct which you pass over by train, plus the Morar viaduct, but are not really accessible by walking from the nearby station (sorry if this report feels very viaduct heavy, I promise a tractor features later). The bus/coach follows the A830 which hangs close to the railway line, passing some beautiful areas, plus tiny settlements. It goes via Arisaig village before going along a coastal route (which you wouldnt see from the line which goes inland) passing the Back of Keppoch & Portnaluchaig on the tight, twisty & hilly B8008, rejoining the main road for a few metres before diving off underneath the Morar railway viaduct up another tight & twisty lane as Morar village was reached and I requested my stop, near the station level crossing. There is a couple hotels nearby and rumours of a garage further up the road, but apart from that
Morar hasnt got a lot.
If anybody is going on that bus, sit on the left hand side for the best views, on a clear day you can see lots of tiny islands, and was a worthwhile cost. Anyhow back to the trains! Morar station is a single platform with a level crossing at the Fort William end, a newspaper office is in the station building and there are a couple seats with decent cover, which came in handy as all of a sudden it started to rain, quite heavily for a few minutes. Anyhow eventually 156477 & 156496 returned from their afternoon break at Mallaig, watching as the driver has to open the front door first to operate the level crossing before returning allowing the guard to release their local door in the middle of the train to allow passengers to alight/board. I put my request in, with the guard making a note of it as I visited the toilet for a quick PNB before locating a seat, staying near the centre of the train due to the short distance.
My next stop was the request stop of
Beasdale, a big step down to the basic platform. Featuring a little shed for a waiting room, and an old house which was boarded up. Next to the main road (with a bus stop for the route 500) and seemingly even more pointless than Locheilside, there are a couple hotels but at least a mile walk along a busy A830 (not much in the way of pavements on a 60 mph road) [although someone did alight from the next train looking for one of them, so it does have a use]. Anyhow this was probably one of my worst festers, mainly as the station is within a wood there is a lot of many many midges flying around trying to get a taste of Kite. It wasnt that nice, having to wonder round the platform to try and get some peace.
Eventually the next Mallaig train arrived to free me from the midges. 156474 had returned from Glasgow to take me to my final Scottish station, yes you heard right, Scotland was about to fall. 3 miles and 33 chains later I alighted at
Arisaig, the most Westerly station in Britain, see it even says so on this sign:
Arisaig Station
Time for a celebration at the completion of my conquest of Scotland, as I had a walk down the hill to Arisaig village itself as I had spotted a little Spar shop earlier from the bus, mainly to pass the time with something cold to drink, before walking back up the hill (beware the hill is quite steep) to enter the station. A basic 2 platform station, barrow crossing at the Mallaig end, a decent waiting shelter as I took shelter from the light rain which had returned, watching as the station got busier with walkers returning from having a good walk, before 156474 returned from Mallaig. Once more I alighted at Banavie in the pouring rain, as I had a fast walk to The Lochy pub, getting dry and having a very lovely burger meal (I know, pushing the boat right out tonight!).
Sadly my plan was to catch the return of the 2nd Jacobite service crossing the Banavie Swing Bridge failed, although I could have easily made it as I was on the correct side of the level crossing, I didnt know how long it would take, however as I noted earlier in the day, the 2nd service wasnt the usual Black Five steam engine, but appeared to be 37518 (or 37516), which made a glorious noise accelerating away from the low speed curve at Banavie to head back to Fort William. I promised a picture of a tractor, and here it be:
37518 at Banavie
I returned to the hostel, soaking wet from the rain, I even paid £3 to rent a towel (which may or may not have been returned in the morning) in order to have a warm shower to wash away the blood, sweat & tears from a successful day. I shall leave you with this picture of a spotty 156492 arriving at Spean Bridge for no reason other than for it be spotty
156492 at Spean Bridge