My Settle & Carlisle style viaduct - OO Gauge Layout

reddragon

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I have now started the construction of a S&C style viaduct. Modelled on Arten Gill / Dent Head viaducts but 4 tracks, curved and only 4 spans - 4 feet long . 2 feet high.

I have never done anything remotely scratch build before. I am good with wood, but not with detail or scenery so lets see how I get on!

1605618785291.png

This is my first part prepared. It is a 250mm wide curve for 4 tracks, with a 1250mm internal radius and 1500mm external radius between boards on each side cut from 12m ply,

I used a 4' x 8' , 12mm plywood board, marked a centre line length wise, measured down 1500mm and then using a pin and string was able to draw the outer 1500mm curve and inner 1250mm curve. I then cut it with a jigsaw and trim the ends for it to fit neatly in place. I have given it a coat of grey household paint.

I will take pictures of each step and describe how I do it in case anyone else wants to have a go!
 
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Iskra

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A very interesting project, on a line I know well. What made you go for four tracks and what era are you modelling?
 

reddragon

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A very interesting project, on a line I know well. What made you go for four tracks and what era are you modelling?

The railway I am building is a 4 track line, so 4 tracks it is!

I am modelling current era of sorts, but some older era stock.

I am sticking to Southern units, Great Western modern, maybe some London Transport stock plus heritage steam / diesel charters. Basically whatever I like!

I know, S&C scenery but no LMS locos apart from a Garratt, but some of the diesels I have travelled the route as will charter trains.
 

Cowley

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I’ll be following this with interest. Have you had any thoughts on how you’ll be cladding it? I used Slaters plasticard for my bridges, but to do something like your viaduct it could get expensive.
I’ve used brick paper on large structures before but you have to be careful with the type of glue that you use as if it’s too wet (like PVA) you’ll get wrinkles, but carpet glue can be good. You have to work quite precisely though as it dries very quickly.
 

reddragon

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I’ll be following this with interest. Have you had any thoughts on how you’ll be cladding it? I used Slaters plasticard for my bridges, but to do something like your viaduct it could get expensive.
I’ve used brick paper on large structures before but you have to be careful with the type of glue that you use as if it’s too wet (like PVA) you’ll get wrinkles, but carpet glue can be good. You have to work quite precisely though as it dries very quickly.

Yes, but that remains to be told.

More news!


1605712518936.png

This arrived today! It is a 180mm diameter hole cutter. That equates to 45 feet in OO gauge or the span size of Arten Gill Viaduct. Ideal for cutting my arches!

So here goes. I first used the 180mm hole cutter to cut the hole in the wood to make 4 sections for the first arch

1605963691550.png 1605963716455.png

I have then fixed them to the underside of the viaduct base

1605963792018.png

And then fix the sides of the arches

1605963833262.png 1605963860913.png

This completes the first arch of 5

1605963905580.png

It is most important that the arch is of equal width and that the curve is taken up within the pillars otherwise it gets too complicated.

Here are the 3 centre arches done and 2 inner supports

1605969926346.png 1605969960430.png

Notice that the base of the viaduct supports are a scale 19 feet and the top is a scale 7 feet.

I had to do these differently by screwing the arches to the supports before fixing them to the deck
 
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Cowley

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That’s some good progress you’ve made there @reddragon .
 

reddragon

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The 5 arches

1605976193023.png

1605976226832.png

And the end sections on

1605976266666.png

The main structure is now completed - next, but not today, will be the sides
 

Cowley

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I just thought of something you might like.
When we were finishing off my friends viaduct we were left with lines where the arches joined which looked a bit obvious, so we got some green gardening wire and made some drainpipes up to hide the joins.
I was pretty pleased with the results:

9DD8757A-28BF-470B-B60F-D04407A74E36.jpeg
 

reddragon

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I just thought of something you might like.
When we were finishing off my friends viaduct we were left with lines where the arches joined which looked a bit obvious, so we got some green gardening wire and made some drainpipes up to hide the joins.
I was pretty pleased with the results:
I have not got to that stage but hope to find a way like yours around it
 

hexagon789

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reddragon

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Next Stage!

Today I have done the outer / rear face of the viaduct. I chose this as if I messed up, I could hide it.

I nailed using panel pins a 2' (610mm) x 4' (1220mm) hardboard to the deck and centre supports, then the adjacent supports.
I used my 180mm hole cutter, without the centre guide, to cut the arches then a multi-saw to cut out the rest.

1606562517745.png

I then used a Stanley knife & fine sandpaper to smooth the edges

1606562597184.png

Next is the front, now I have practised.

I have done the same at the front except I have put the smooth side forwards. I protected it with masking tape when I cut it. It helped but not perfect!

1606583792111.png

So the structure is now finished. Here with a loco on top!

1606583871756.png 1606583921183.png

My next task is a thin sheet for the under arches.
 
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Cowley

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It looks really good. It’s a proper substantial structure.
 

reddragon

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It looks really good. It’s a proper substantial structure.

I tend to build for strength! Should take my weight?

I just thought of something you might like.
When we were finishing off my friends viaduct we were left with lines where the arches joined which looked a bit obvious, so we got some green gardening wire and made some drainpipes up to hide the joins.
I was pretty pleased with the results:

View attachment 86203

How did you do the stone at the base of the parapet that sticks out?
 
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Cowley

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How did you do the stone at the base of the parapet that sticks out?
Sorry @reddragon I read this yesterday and forgot to reply.
The viaduct in that picture is a load of N gauge Peco kits that my friend put together, but when I built the bridge below (also N gauge but in theory it should work in 00), I got some Slaters stone plasticard and cut along two of the stone courses using a sharp knife and a metal ruler.
I then superglued it into position and sponged a little bit of decorating caulk into the edges to tidy it up before painting.

52C7D369-E4CA-413A-ABFA-E36E93538DEA.jpeg
 

reddragon

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Sorry @reddragon I read this yesterday and forgot to reply.
The viaduct in that picture is a load of N gauge Peco kits that my friend put together, but when I built the bridge below (also N gauge but in theory it should work in 00), I got some Slaters stone plasticard and cut along two of the stone courses using a sharp knife and a metal ruler.
I then superglued it into position and sponged a little bit of decorating caulk into the edges to tidy it up before painting.

View attachment 86543

OK thanks, I will adapt my solution for this method.

I have ordered some sheets of A3 size plasticard for underneath the arches.

I am also going to use filler on the edges of what I have done to ensure smoothness / no holes / joints.

I have the stonework now, suitable for underneath the arches and at span level, but will have to order some larger stone sizes for the supports.
 

reddragon

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Over the weekend I did some sealing or the wood and gap filling.

Today I received the A3 sized plasticard. It is the paintable version, here is the link: -


You need this type to be able to paint / paper it.
 

Peter C

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Over the weekend I did some sealing or the wood and gap filling.

Today I received the A3 sized plasticard. It is the paintable version, here is the link: -


You need this type to be able to paint / paper it.
It's really interesting to watch this viaduct develop - I'm definitely going to 'borrow' some techniques you've used - mainly regarding the use of plasticard - on some of my projects :)

-Peter
 

Cowley

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Yeah I’m looking forward to seeing this come together.
 

Peter C

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My next task is to cut & install the plasticard under the 5 arches. I needed A3 as A4 is too small.
That sounds like quite a difficult task; I've never used plasticard before so will be very interested in this to see how to do it :)

-Peter
 

reddragon

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That sounds like quite a difficult task; I've never used plasticard before so will be very interested in this to see how to do it :)

-Peter
At 0.5mm it has just the right bendiness and adequate stiffness for what I have done.

Still to decide how to fix it yet but drawing pins came to mind!
 

Cowley

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At 0.5mm it has just the right bendiness and adequate stiffness for what I have done.

Still to decide how to fix it yet but drawing pins came to mind!
When I did my bridges it took quite a bit of fiddling around with until it was the correct shape (it was a skew bridge so it was always going to be difficult), once I was ready I ran some superglue over it and the plastic promptly melted! :lol:
 

Peter C

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At 0.5mm it has just the right bendiness and adequate stiffness for what I have done.

Still to decide how to fix it yet but drawing pins came to mind!
Thanks - I'll remember that as it may come in handy for the depot I'm doing now I think about it. If you're trying to work out how to to fix the plasticard to the underside of the arches, maybe track pins could work? They are quite good for keeping various things together but they may be too small for a large-scale project.

-Peter
 

reddragon

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Thanks - I'll remember that as it may come in handy for the depot I'm doing now I think about it. If you're trying to work out how to to fix the plasticard to the underside of the arches, maybe track pins could work? They are quite good for keeping various things together but they may be too small for a large-scale project.

-Peter
The heads need to be large enough not to make holes!
 

reddragon

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Today I have started again working on my viaduct.

I have used the thin plasticard on the arches underneath. I have used PVA glue to stick them in with drawing pins as temporary fixings. I think I need to get better large head nails to fix it more permanently.

1607858776870.png 1607858817503.png

I have also fixed my first sheet of stonework in place to see how it sticks with PVA glue

1607858890801.png


Now its time to let the secret out of the bag!!

Its textured wallpaper :) This is what it looks like on the reverse!

1607859032636.png

Being wallpaper rather than printed printer paper, there are no issues with wrinkling etc, it went on just like wallpaper!!!

They do all modelling scales, many types of finish and all sorts of shapes, all only on A4 sheets though.

Yes OK, here is the link to my wallpaper and the sellers shop.



Let me know what you think!
 
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Cowley

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Today I have started again working on my viaduct.

I have used the thin plasticard on the arches underneath. I have used PVA glue to stick them in with drawing pins as temporary fixings. I think I need to get better large head nails to fix it more permanently.

View attachment 87061 View attachment 87062

I have also fixed my first sheet of stonework in place to see how it sticks with PVA glue

View attachment 87063


Now its time to let the secret out of the bag!!

Its textured wallpaper :) This is what it looks like on the reverse!

View attachment 87069

Being wallpaper rather than printed printer paper, there are no issues with wrinkling etc, it went on just like wallpaper!!!

They do all modelling scales, many types of finish and all sorts of shapes, all only on A4 sheets though.

Yes OK, here is the link to my wallpaper and the sellers shop.



Let me know what you think!
That looks excellent. I really like that finish.
 

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